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I need to upgrade my ignition system, but have a few questions. Which HKS DLI do you guys use? Universal one? And which one should I use? HKS DLI 2 or the original one? Thanks for the help in advance.

The hood latch hook on the hood is screwed up and the hood doesn't fully close. So if I really want that hood on the car I'll need to take the latch out.

I will be taking my stock hood latch out and installing Sparco hood pins onto my Stout CF hood. Where's the best place to drill for hood pins?

The stock toe and camber arms look flimsy and they are hollow inside. The aftermarket arms I'm using are my stronger. To my knowledge nobody sells poly bushings for the knuckle and my stock bushings were extremely torn apart and I didnt want to put stock rubber bushings in.

I ended up getting 0 toe and camber in the rear today. I know it's not going to handle as well on the streets, but I keep that in mind when I drive. Why is it a bad idea to have nylon bushings? I have zerk fittings installed and I actually opened the inside of the bushings a bit, so the pins...

Yea I remember reading that a while back. But my biggest question is how I should set my front suspension up?

So how did you guys make your air bag steering columns work? The horn I mean.

I finally got my whole car together and will be needing alignment in the next week or so, but I need some input. First of all heres my suspension setup: Tein Flex coilovers all around FRONT: No front sway bar Front Ebay strut tower bar Stock suspension bars and bushings REAR...

I think when I was taking the plate out, I ended up bending the inner tabs out a little too much and didn't bend it back when I put it back on the car, so that's why it was hitting the pressure plate.

It was the passenger side inspection plate.

I found out what the knock was. The clutch was actually hitting one of the inspection plates on the tranny, so I bent it enough for the clutch not to hit it. Man now the car runs so rich. Once I start it, it stays at 14.7 for a little while and then goes down to 12:1.

Set the timing the right way and now there's a knock??

I just realised my problem. I set the cam pulleys the right way, but didn't set the crank pulley right. I didn't put it to "0" on the timing cover, but aligned it straight up like the cam gears.

The crank pulley mark lines up at the top, so do the cam pullies. If it was off a tooth, it wouldn't line up the same way after cranking over.

How do you check if the timing is 180 off?

This is for a 1JZ. I took the car off the road in december to do a lot of things to it. Ended up changing my valve stem seals, Crower springs/retainers, Crower 272 small core cams, RPS Twin Carbon clutch and aluminum flywheel and other non engine related things. Today I put everything...

I don't use cruise control much and mine didn't work anyway, so I eliminated it also. Anyway this is how my column looks like, I know the non air-bag models have a metal contact plate around the clock spring. This is how my horn button and metal retainer are hooked up. Is it hooked...

My Supra was originally an air bag model so there are no contacts on the column for ground. How did you guys get your horns to work?

No I didnt have any shims on it. I just looked and noticed that my original 1JZ flywheel has a chamfer on the backside of the flywheel, same place where the starter hits the RPS flywheel.

I just checked and it's definitely the starter housing that's hitting the flywheel...