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don't blame him, you listened to him and did it.

88 base model Hard top.. 3300lbs half tank of gas, no back seats, no rear interior. Now I just need to finish removing my interior, and get some lighter wheels, an aluminum drive shaft, and some light seats... hopefully I can get close to 3100lbs. Going from the w58 to r154 is going to add...

Well everything that turns on and can be operated with the switch to ON, comes on. So I am going to start with the switch... I remember now, I had put my friends turbo gauge cluster in last night, to test the tach, then put my N/A cluster back in. Are there any wires or plugs up there that if...

okay, here is a sequence of events that happen, maybe somebody who understands more about how the igntition/body wiring system works can pinpoint what is failing. 1. Key is in ON position (car running) 2. Turn key to OFF... Everything shuts down like normal 3. Running lights and dash lights...

I think it's one of the relays for the door systems or something.... very frustrating.... I'm going to start with changing the ignition switch, then start digging through the rest of the wiring. my cost for an ignition switch is like $25...

hmm that would be the logical place to start, now if you could tell me any circuits other than the ignition switch that would cause all of my symptoms by shorting out, that would be some usefull advice.

no, if it's JUST a small vaccum leak, the check engine light usually doesn't come on.. unless it's causing something else to fail... find the vac leak and fix it.

Do they make a fitted kit? I can't seem to find it on there ebay store... link?

Hmm, well I ordered a new ignition switch, I'll see if that helps, if not I think I'm going to have to go digging for a short somewhere.

hmm, well as I think about it, I guess I can't see the connection between the door ajar light and the ignition switch.... but every other issue points to the ignition switch. I've already ordered another one.

hmm, when the door is closed and the key is out of the ignition my door ajar light stays on slightly dim, my climate control reads 5 degrees and my volt meter reads 6volts and I still have power to everything... I have a feelign it's not the ignition switch.

Just went outside to move my car and saw my foglights were on, aswell as my side markers, I thought that's strange, since once when I open my door all that should shut off. I get in to move my car and then shut it down, turn the key to off and open the door.... then look at my volt gauge...

sell the 5.0... those cars are ugly as sin...

you can get an 89+ lock cylinder and then get it re-keyed to your original key. I locksmith should be able to do it.

pff, expensive, may aswell try the cheaper options to start out with. If the $10 a bulb hellas are good enough for him, then why spend a couple hundred for some hids

pff, just get a set of bulb holders out of a us spec 89+... or bust out the test light and start cutting... that is.. if it's not plug and play... I thought it was.

They look different colours depending on the angle you see them at. The beam pattern is bright yellow, and head on they are bright yellow, but from the side they can appear to be blue, white, or even purple... Awesome lights.

I would try using the H3 Yellow Star in your stock foglights (H3 is the bulb size).... Personally, the supra doesn't look very good with aftermarket lights added on (aside from replacing your headlights with some hid projectors in a custom setup)... So try working with the stock foglights and...

get some h3 hella yellow stars in a higher than stock wattage and upgrade your wiring for the foglights to be able to handle the higher wattage bulbs... and your done.

fuel cut sucks. /thread