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I know that driftmotion sells the UEGO and for a great price, bout the lowest ive seen other than ebay.

I remember now what I had to do. When I installed I realized that the nut would bottom out and the line would still be loose. This line is a compression fitting so there needs to be a tight fit. There should not be any rubber that your describing... Anyway, What I did was grind off the first one...

I came across this pdf that explains how toyota mass air flow systems work. www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf

I had the same problem with mine, DO NOT put teflon on the threads and think its fixed, the threads are not the sealing surface. The problem is that the flare is mad a bit too short. I believe I had to grind down the nut some.

Where do I get the pickup coils for the CPS? Is there a source to get them? I am in need of them but I think its a waste to have to buy a complete CPS when the only part bad on it is the pickup coils... There has to be a place that has them since you can get a reman unit.

GTE swap, Not NA-T. Im talking about the CPS not the injector resistor.

are the connector terminal locations correct on the igniter? the reason is I used a ge harness on a gte swap, I want to make sure I wired it right.

I am having trouble getting my supra started after GTE swap. I just checked the CPS pickup coils and all 3 have 215-220 ohms. The spec is 140-180 ohms, is that a direction that I really should be heading in?

has anyone noticed that this scematic in the TSRM has typos or am I reading it wrong?http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=D&P=34 The ECU to ignitor circuits seem to be mixed up. IGT goes to IGDB IGF goes to IGDA IGDA goes to IGF IGDB goes to IGT

Yea, your right, I forgot that these flywheels clutch face arent flush with the PP mounting.

Oh! thats probably it, I think I may have used the N/A circuit board on the back. I did a N/A-T swap and just made 2 clusters into one... And by the way, I do know a thing or two about electronic circuits, I am ASE master tech and L1 certified. I just dident realize the turbo and N/A boards were...

If the flywheel was machined too far would cause you the same problems. since the clutch and flywheel is farther from the clutch fork it causes the slave cyl to have to travel that much farther before engagement. Try adjusting the clutch pedal to see if that takes care of your problem if your...

I think that if you replace that disc with the oriface with a disc without any holes that you would be using the dashpot as a cusion due to the air not being able to escape. Think air shocks.

I did the same on my car but I dident use a ground jumper at all.... Just removed the boost gauge box and plugged in the volt gauge... It works perfectly fine, you guys sure you need that jumper in there???

V8 swaps can be a real PITA take my word for it. I shoved a 383 in the tiny engine bay of my Sonoma and it took me over a year to get it in and working right. Alot of custom fabrication would be in your future but is very doable. You could even get the AC, PS working if you know how to make AC...

+1 I am also going turbo with N/A car. I got the Intercooler mounted up and the charge pipe installed from the cooler to the 3000 pipe but I really cant figure out the pipe from the turbo to the cooler. I dont have a camera right now but I will try to get one and take some pics. (I really wish...

Im sure your problem with the play is from the sleeve, but depending on how bad it is and how long its been like that, there may be some collateral damage either on the ring and pinion gears or pinion bearing. If you have a leak coming from behind the pinion nut, out of the flange, its leaking...

I assume the flange you are talking about is the pinion yoke, and no its not supposed to have play in it. it should spin freely but not have freeplay. That would also cause the leak you are describing also. They diff is really easy to remove, just comes right down. It is really heavy though...

Turn the headlights off, manually turn the motors so that the headlight buckets are in the down position then try turning them back on, should take care of it.

I like it other than all the segments make it look too busy. What series gauge is that, and how much?