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Heres a pic of the EGR system. If you have a JDM engine like I bought there were just some steel blockoff plates that went over the passage on the head where the exhaust gasses come from and one one the intake. I bought the egr cooler and gasket from a local toyota dealer and bought the rest...

That doesent sound like a slipping clutch to me... if it was slipping the car would jerk less since the torque isnt getting to the ground. A slipping clutch would feel as though you are only letting out the clutch partialy (slipping the clutch)

The egr cooler is just a crossover routing the exhaust gasses around the head. if you are running without an egr system it is not needed, you can just block off the holes. I dont recommend running without an egr system however without an aftermarket or jdm ecu.

I would also like to know what kind of proof anyone has that SPEC clutches are just repainted oem? I have a spec stage 3 clutch and it doesent look spray bombed... as adam mentioned I would think it would be obvious that it is just painted wich mine has obviously atleast been apart. Its like...

lol, the ct-26 that came on my jdm was siezed. So in my case the life span was zero.

Yes, the clutch may not be fully disengaging when you push the clutch in. Usually you can check it by revving the engine with the clutch depressed and trans in first gear. If it creeps then its not fully disengaging the clutch.

did you pull codes? I would think along the lines of the afm, ive seen many bad afms act similar, or possibly boost leak.

Yes, but iirc you have to drill and tap holes for the knock sensors, and install a turbo oil drain in the oil pan. I dont think theres anything else you need.

www.suprasport.com check out the spearco replica intercooler, $200 and comes with everything to bolt up to your supra.

I would tackle the code 52 first. Do the Knock sensor rewire. When I had code 52 It wouldnt set right away, only after a minute or two of driving. It wont set at idle.

I have no experence with these but check it out: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TXS-KNOCK/ or http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8964/

You should be ok, The car may bog more taking off than before and you will see a gas milage change, probably for the worse. maybe -1 mpg? Low horsepower cars usualy have higher gear ratios to get the car in a more suitible powerband. Put it in and if you dont like how it feels then swap it out...

I would try bleeding the clutch. You may have air in the system, or your clutch master cylinder may be going bad.

What exactly are you refering to? The lipp piping kit, intercooler? I use the spearco replica and the lipp 2.5 piping kit. If thats what your talking about then I would say fitment is good. Little confusing since no directions are included. I could get you some pics if you pm me your phone # Ill...

the computer thinks its cranking when you turn the key to crank, and you dont get a cmp signal it sets the code

The computer looks to see if there is a crank signal when you crank the engine, so if your starter is not engaging for 3 seconds this code will set. I had the same problem. Try replacing the starter.

our tanks are vented through the gas cap. You should be fine but there is no vent size spec with a vented gas cap.

wingless

I used the trans supports off my 7mge when I did my swap. they are exactly the same. I went from 7mge/auto to 7mgte/w58. with 7mge/auto trans supports. I used the 7mge fan blade, engine runs perfectly cool. You should keep the EGR. The 7mge throttle cable is longer and the gte is shorter...

I had the same problem. turned out to be the AFM.