The Luxocruiser 3650 lb sled thread

Nick M

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noah89t;997740 said:
i used helicoils on a few of the exhaust studs during my rebuild and haven't had a problem yet. it isn't from people cross threading the bolts, it's from the heat of the head. if you want the part number for the helicoil kit let me know. mine is from advance auto parts.

edit: I was wrong.

I have a picture of it.
 
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noah89t

get naked & boost a supra
it may be a case of both, my motor was all original and never pulled until i pulled it to do the rebuild and found 3 of my exhaust studs almost completely stripped. any way, good luck with your decision to either helicoil or use bigger studs.
by the way, i know it's easy to cross thread bolts but, it can't be that common on the exhaust side:dunno:
 

Nick M

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Your experience and knowledge on theory is appreciated and always welcome. Do continue. This bolt was crossed. The reason I think that is the light damage on the blot also. Maybe not though.

Since budget suppliers couldn't get a 10695 fast enough, I pieced it together myself.

perma%20cool%20relocation.JPG


Now I wonder if this is just an accident waiting to happen with the cooler lines. They aren't right on the manifold, and other lines are there too, like coolant, A/C, and power steering. I didn't get turn down fittings, but could have. I guess I will find out. I painted them with high temp engine paint, good for 500 degrees, and periods of 1200. The turbo heatshield is also painted the same color.

coated%20and%20installed.JPG


I should be restarting my car this week. I reinstalled the turbo, Kind of sucks in the driveway. I feel bad for you do it at home people. A lift is where its at.
 
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Nick M

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fiyota;968585 said:
Hmm, would there be any way to plumb it so it will always pass through the filter before the oil cooler? !

Would it be better to filter just before the engine, even if it is a full flow? IJ, Adjuster? I think it should be filtered right before going into the engine, but his question has me thinking.
 

Nick M

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So I finished putting it together. Lesson learned. The outlets run right to the lower intercooler pipe. I saw the trans adapt, in 18 x 1.5 running straight down, but nobody has said they didn't break the trans adapt that I saw. Perma cool has been broken also, but mine is very reasonable.

If I had turned it vertical, it would give more clearance. I think the best choice is the transadapt fitting to go straight down. Or that high dollar Canton piece IJ showed. It went down also. I am also going to change over the NPT fittings on the oil cooler to sweeping bends. I might even move the filter to under the driver headlight. The passenger light is ok, but I hadn't though about the washer resevoir being behind the one wall. That is where I was going to put the filter mount. So instead, I put it on the stow hook for transport, just like the in pics in JDUBs full flow sticky.

The Lex and 550 runs great. I wasn't at fuel cut to begin with, and it sucks kind of loud. I left the screw about half way in, where it came.

Time for a powerwashing. The old oil cooler lines were leaking.
 

Nick M

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I am impressed with Toyota engineering and the Lexus replica from Suprasport. You can't even tell it is there, except the housing is not dirty and bigger. No difference in drivability at all.

It is almost like having a Ford hot wire sensor from Hitachi.
 

Nick M

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Tonight after 3 years of ownership, I finally "baselined" the car. I did what I thought it would, only better and worse. I turned 15.5 @ 92. I figured stock should run 15.5 @ 90. I have the exhaust and downpipe, so a few more mph is expected.

But it was in a 10-15mph headwind. I don't know how much it matters, I don't have a forumla. But it was blustery. The sixty foot was horrendous, at 2.66. There isn't anything I can do in the short term. Nitrous, custom work from TCI, drop 500 lbs, those will drop the time. Foot to the floor, that is all the A340E would do.

Now, I am thinking about the IPT trans, instead of just the valve body mod. I would get a little bit looser converter, to go with the quicker shift, and stronger trans. That would also mean a seperate cooler in front, when the front is already crowded. I like cool air in the summer, and I have a wife, so dumping A/C isn't really an option.

But in the next year will be a small CT flanged T04E, such as those from Suprasport. And electronic boost controller, maybe on the CT just to see what 13 psi will do. And a real intercooler will round out the mods. The Lex meter runs perfect. When I get the bigger blower, I will get an airflow meter scaler to tweak it if needed. 10.0:1 AFR just isn't needed with a MHG.

For the record, horsepower is calcuated, not measured. It takes 203 horespower to push my car a quarter mile at 3880 lbs with driver. So it would dyno close to 203, give or take of course. I will call it 20-25 over stock with the downpipe and cat back. Maybe this fall I will dyno the car before a boost controller or turbo.

Stock upshift is about 4900 RPM. With the ETC button in, it changed to about 5500 RPM.
 
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Nick M

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I take it you run a thermostat after the first, before the return then?

In summary, I have owned this car 3 years now. I have put 14,000 miles on it with 4500 of them being roundtrip to SILV 06.

I bought it in 05. I got the HKS downpipe in 06. I got the HKS 75mm turbo exhaust in 07. I did the filter relocation with thermostatically controlled cooler from B&M in 08. And a Lex/RC550's in 08. And the Luxosled runs a 15.5 @ 92 in a head wind. Not exactly the "Brown car", I know.
 
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tookwik4u89

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Nick M;1028411 said:
Now, I am thinking about the IPT trans, instead of just the valve body mod. I would get a little bit looser converter, to go with the quicker shift, and stronger trans.

A great investment IMO, you will need it to reap the benefits of higher boost.
 

Nick M

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I might do your ignition mod. But I actually like the stock appearance, when it isn't messed up. Previous owners did nice upkeep on mine.

So then you are also running the IPT trans? What about a converter? Higher stall?
 

tookwik4u89

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Nick M;1030470 said:
I might do your ignition mod. But I actually like the stock appearance, when it isn't messed up. Previous owners did nice upkeep on mine.

So then you are also running the IPT trans? What about a converter? Higher stall?

I had the stocker loosened up as much as possible Nick, cost me $250 like 4 yrs ago.
 

Nick M

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My DrJonez manual boost controller is on the way. Next year I will have results of running near stock boost levels, and 13 psi from the CT26. No need to go higher, the turbo doesn't work good enough at that restriction.
 

Nick M

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I will be installing my manual controller tomorow morning. I fly in tonight. Test and tune session is next week. I predict a mid 14 and speed of around 97 with 13 psi and my exhaust.

Based on other cars with the same mods that ran that speed.
 

Nick M

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I put drjonez's manual controller, and set it to 13 psi on the first try. An educated accident to be sure. I put it about 3/4 to 4/5 the way in hoping to hit 13. It spikes to 15 at the upshift for a split second. It is an automatic, that is how they work.