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Hey Chris, are you still making Knock sensor rewire kits? I need one for my 87 7MGTE, Ive got no codes, but preventive maintenance is my reasoning...let me know

Ok, so the linkage is not the same, but I was able to adapt it to work correctly, and I know some of you might dissagree, but I adjusted the idle screw, (not the air/fuel screw) and now the car idles fine at 750 with no code 51. There seems to be better throttle response even though this would...

I just put this 91 TB on my 87 manual, the problem is, the accelarator pedal is really hard to press now, and the car wont idle because of this. The butterfly in the TB is much harder to open, Im thinking there was some other cable on the 91 that prevented this from being so hard...I can drive...

I got a 87 turbo, that has a code 51, this car has no AC. I beleive the adjustment screws were goofed with by the previous owner, and possibly the TPS. The question is, my buddy has a 89 turbo with no codes, what are your thoughts of me replacing his throttlebody with mine? His linkage...

Dude, whats up with the AC Stuff? And what happened with the Cam swap? Any difference? Let me know...

A new dryer is a MUST! R-12 is not compatible with R134, and this is the last link in preventing contamination of the two when converting. Besides they only go for around $20 at autozone. As to the conversion, I never switched the hoses on my conversion, and its cold enough, now you got me...

No hating for the Newbie, only love...anyway, first off, a header is a aftermarket exhaust manifold, so I doubt thats what your talking about when you refered that a lot of Supras have this problem, you probably meant a blown Head Gasket, which is of course a common problem with supras. To do a...

Wet sanding is usually done for cars that are NOT using a clear coat, primarily for removing Orange Peel, then the area that was wet sanded is buffed out with wax/compound. Since the car is buffed out afterwards, you wouldnt spray a clear-coat over the wax/compound. I guess if your not buffing...

Following up on the AC stuff...let me know whats going on...curious if you noticed a difference on the cam swap..anyway, let me know whats up..you can reach me at pramiscal@hotmail.com also..thanks

Does one not beleive in our justice system in that although aquitted, we still wish to pass a judgement of guilty?..I have to agree with savannahashlee, its horrible to see individuals making fun of an individual who who was loved by millions, and who gave back 100's of millions through...

DUDE YOUR MAILBOX IS FULL...interested in the HKS, let me know..you can reach me at pramiscal@hotmail.com as well, if $400 shipped is ok, let me know your paypal address...as to the system, are there any major dings, and do you have all the gaskets? Thanks again...

I'll pick up the HKS Drager for $400 shipped to Las Vegas if its in good condition...let me know, you can reach me here or at pramiscal@hotmail.com shoot me some pics if possible and your paypal account if this is ok..thanks

ok, do you still want to sell all of your ac stuff? I need every thing inside in engine bay, that would be the two lines connecting to the evaporator through the fire wall, the condensor and mounting brackets, ac dryer, ac compressor and bracket...everything! Let me know...pramiscal@hotmail.com...

Hey Nihilz, are you selling your AC stuff still? email me here or at pramiscal@hotmail.com let me know!....

where are you located? Im trying to figure out what shipping would be to las vegas for all the ac stuff...

Well there we have it! Ground only one end, the ECU end, and ground it to the E1 at the ECU connector, or in the alternative, to the large support bar behind the dash....I appreciate your input

Ok, I've looked at half a dozen knock sensor (KS) rewire instructions which conflict one another..One author says to ground the new KS wire on both ends, the ground on the KS end would be on the ballister connected on the lft. strut tower, and the ecu end would be on the nut for the ABS computor...

are you stiill selling the bumper and side skirts?

So bottom line, dont buy it, cuz you can install the sealls by hand! On the crankshaft seal, you can even put gasket sealent along the outside of the seal, press it in by hand as straight as you can, then you can tap it the rest of the way in by using the back end of a socket wrench. I like...

As to the slotted/cross drilled rotors, let it be told, they make a huge difference in stopping. At least the cross drilled ones on my Turbo-Miata (never used slotted). I use to have brake fade untill I switched up the rotors. As to the cross drilled craking, I never had that problem, but...