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LOL, thanks! I can get it baked and blasted for $56 flat! ...I'm sold!

I was thinking of getting my block dipped before installing the guts. But, as I make phone calls to get a quote, etc..., this place called WaterHouse Motors said they don't do dipping, but they will oven bake and blast the block so it'll come out looking like new. Anybody got theirs baked...

He did use the plasticguage to check for clearance. Did do the timming belt tension to some extend, and direction of rotation (even marked on belt. Not sure if he replaced with new bearings, but he DID mention something like: "when you put your new bearings on...". He probably disected a low...

:evil2:

For someone trying to rebuild his/her engine for the first time, such as myself, this DVD helps ALOT! It gave me a better understanding of the overall process and aid in visualization as I do my research the Tech/Tech tips/Disc. forums, without scratching my head going "what the heck are they...

Ya, I also took a pic with the oil pump still attached....and it was the ugliest thing I had ever seen. Can't wait to get this piece of shit back together (working) and have fun, again. =)

Ok, just finished taking everything apart, phew. Below are pics of the bottom end. I also noticed mig welds on the flywheel? Also a close-up of the part where crankshaft connects to connecting rod - I noticed green coloring on every one of them. Also, look close to the hex bolt in the last...

btw, what is honing, bore? LOL, feel stupid but must ask!

hhmm, I think the rusting was created by the coolant that leaked in cyclinders. So you're telling that the cylinder walls HAS TO BE rust free? Spotless? If i'm going to send it to a shop, then can I upgrade with these? http://www.suprastore.com/enblpa.html Can we tell signs of rod...

OK, Just bought this turbo motor for cheap because whoever was working on it moved out and owner of house wanted to get rid of it. It has been sitting there for over 2 years. I drained the oil to look for you-know-what, and DAymnn, oil mixed with coolant. :icon_evil The head has been rebuilt...

Happened to my previous '89 T. Mine started up everytime (w/ oil filled up in spark plug compartment), so I'd suggest that you check all other typical known starting issues w/ supras. ie: ignition switch, relay, battery and battery terminals, ground wires, starter, etc... A temporary method...

But I'm offering for lower. LOL :naughty:

I've changed it on the 7m-gte many times and I only needed to take off the throttle cable linkage (above the 5-6 plugs), and the coil pack, and leave the 3000 pipe untouched. Tools used: socket extension that allows you to work at an angle, spark plug socket, magnet pointer. The 3000 pipe...

Yes, I am not into racing (not as often) but still want more power when I "feel like it". My goals for HP would be 400 BHP, max. At least 300 bhp!

Thanks to both. Dr. J: What would you recommend on the turbo upgrade topic? T04?

Starting the painfully slow process of restoring my '88 turbo. It'll be my first time taking apart everything, so I have many many questions that I'd like to ask in one post just for convenience. Hope it's ok with you guys and gals. As with many problems/issues, you guys need the skinny, so...

My '88 Turbo has been 'dead' for about 4-6 months, and this week I've decided to try and make it start and run straight (CPS prob. timming, etc...), and I just got it to start without hesitations like before. I am proud of myself on this part. Last month I bought an '89 Turbo with Headgasket...

I'd say get a Valentine One, if you don't it!

What do you guys think of rubber gaskets for these tail lights? At least 1/4" thick. I can probably make some.

stepdad and I put a used 7m-gte (~ 135, XXX) on it, 2-3 weeks later I drove the car from Dallas, TX to Seattle, WA. I drove straight only stopping for gas...and about 4 hours of sleep because ran out of gas and the gas station was closed, so had to wait til it opened again. LOL. 2200 miles in...