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ok...will reset and let you guys know what's up

Umm, so my car now exhibits codes 42 and 43, WTF? In a possibly unrelated situation, it is now hard to start in the morning, and gets horrible gas milage. BTW, its an 88, turbo 5 speed, almost completely stock, any help is appreciated.

my original idea was to run super chilled liquid from a resivoir (SP?) into a liquid to air heat exchanger (which would be after the turbo), in theory, the air charge would slow down momentarily and transfer most of the heat from the air charge into the liquid, and then that liquid be pumped in...

to follow up my original question- so what would the difference be going from say...60 deg F in your intake manifold to zero deg F? 10 hp, 20? How about if you could cool the manifold charge to -50? What would happen then?

Ok- What whould the effects, if any, on your car if you could cool you're intake charge air temp to say, 0 degrees F? Would you make massive power, would you throw a piston through your hood? Would it do anything harmful, or would it be awesome? Just curious, since my buddy raised the...

if youre only going for 400 hp. just get an upgraded ct, that is relatively inexpensive, as well as eliminating oil line mods, a new WG, exhaust and intake pipe.

for the block-side oil line bolt (or nut), I found it much easier to use a bunch of extensions from the bottom and a SHALLOW socket, as a deep socket runs into the oil line, and won't seat on the nut (or bolt head) use the shallow.

I am currently just a grunt for an industrial contracing company, pay starts at 15 an hour for me,at least 50 hrs a week, plus overtime for anything over 8 hrs in a day, double time on weekends, and holidays, and full private health care benefits after the mandatory 90 day probationary period...

well, CSI time switch seems to be the consensus, so I will give her a shot this weekend and let ya know what's up Thanks guys

I am still having trouble starting the car when cold. It takes a few tries with the key, then fires and stays running. Things I've tried.... Cleaning the cold start injector checking the tps checking all throttle body wiring new plugs timing is dead on fuel injector cleaner No codes...

believe it or not, maaco does pretty good work, you just have to slip the painter an extra 100 dollars so he puts some extra paint on for ya, then simply color sand and buff-comes out like glass. Just make sure the prep guy does his job. If you look at the work a shop does, the tools they use...

search for codes, you should find all your answers

wiggle your CPS wires

sounds like you need to adjust your valves, it's in the tsrm

That is exactly what I did, it works every time :)

If I recall, they are the same as the Toyota Pickup 8 inch rear end, which was 29, I think. But info on the Pickup should be easy to find. I know we can use our LSDs in the pickup, as a direct bolt in

Where I live, I can get a 3 bedroom 2 bath house that's decent (not real nice, but definitely not shitty) for about 650-750, the 2/1 Im in now is 550, with a huge yard and fruit trees and such. I just landed my new job at 15 an hour, plus 20 hours of overtime a week! That's about 700 a week...

make sure you check the resettable(SP) breaker behind the passenger kick panel first

Alright, got it fixed, it was the motor. By the way, I didn't kick/beat it, just put the new one in and it worked. Oh, and I got a brand new (not reman) lifetime warranty motor from autozone for 54.99. I just had to play autozone and schucks against each other for a lower price. Thanks for...

I am not a complete noob, been working on cars for about 15 years, just never cars this complicated, as I was/am into classics. As I've said before, my blower will not work on any speed/setting, so I will test the resistor first, but I think Im going to be buying a new motor.