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remove turbo and manifold. remove studs drill out the holes in the head clean out the holes tap the holes in the head clean out the holes thread in heli coil inserts. use red locktite. let them dry overnight. thread in new oversize coarse-thread studs (the ones that came with the kit)...

no codes. timing might be off by 1 or 1.5 degrees at most. i didnt get it RIGHT on the 10 BTDC line, but it is pretty damn close. and yes, i jumpered the appropriate terminals before adjusting the CPS.

i did mine with the head still on. you just need a reduced shank drill bit and a right angle drill.

heh the "coil" you refer to in the threads of the short end of the stud is actually aluminum from your head. those were the threads in the head that held the stud in place. because they are old and soft, when you tried to torque the nut, you spun the stud and ripped the threads right off. now...

so not long ago, i did a HG job and have been driving the car on weekends since. it runs great, super smooth idle, smooth acceleration, and everything seems great. except that i cant really feel much of a difference between 5psi and 10 psi. i can only vary this by throttle position, though...

not sure if you are talking to me... probably not since im using the spearco replica, not the cx racing one. just in case you were asking me (:P) i did not relocate my oil cooler, but i did make custom brackets to mount the IC. i did not have to cut or re-shape any part of the existing metal...

doat, that is interesting. my dipstick attaches to the removable plate used to seal the water cooling inlet/outlet that is not in use on my turbo. it does not screw directly into the housing. and my dipstick fits perfectly! :D my turbo (stock ct26) has 3 areas where shit gets attached...

changed my clutch master and slave cylinders. totally different feel to the clutch now... wonder how long those have been performing at less than standard levels...

$100 would be a great deal, IMO. id pay up to $300 for it if it was in good shape otherwise, i.e. unmodified, never had head or block resurfaced, ran stock boost.

i took off the bumper when i installed my FMIC kit. made life sooo easy. and the bumper isnt hard to remove/install, even for one person working alone. i didn't notice much difference between stock and IC kit. i have the spearco replica w/ LIPP 2.5" hard pipe kit. it certainly looks nicer...

i cant see the pictures. i suggest you check out imgur.com. best image hosting site, in my opinion.

can you bend or slide the mounting tab on the dipstick tube into the appropriate spot to get it to mount correctly? or maybe you have the mounting plate upside down on the turbo?

pretty sure we have people on here who run their cars in arizona in 110+ heat. with stock fan and shroud, and a well maintained cooling system, you should be ok.

those are some hot shits!

yep, spacers can fix this type of problem. spacers push your wheel out further, reducing the offset. so you could conservatively run a 15mm spacer, giving you a final offset of +32 and +30. that would fit well without rolling fenders. might still be a little bit tucked with that offset...

these will look very similar to MKIV turbo wheels on an mk3, meaning the wheels will be tucked back inside the fenders/quarter panels. not even close to flush. your car will look like a hovercraft. ;)

hate to say it, but this has already all been covered. go back and read your own thread. i know it is 43 pages, but tough shit; you done it to yourself! ;) you need a timing light. no 2 ways around it. other than that, you can double check 1) your timing belt install and 2) your cps...

whats the point of "guessing" your timing? do it right. get a light.

yea, i was definitely having some tunnel vision after getting the head gasket job done. i didn't do a really thorough check-up on the systems unrelated/unaffected by my top end rebuild. i dont know how low the fluid can get before the clutch starts malfunctioning, but it is possible that it was...

yup, just ordered the master and slave cylinders. where did all the fluid go from the reservoir? it isnt in the carpet. also, do i have to do any major disassembly of the dash or anything to replace the master cylinder?