Turns out I do have to order the grommets I would order that kit you linked me to numba1 but I am a little short also I don't have the tools to remove those baskets from what I have seen on youtube videos. So I will be back out working on the car on monday or tuesday, I wish I could have gotten them today or tomorrow morning but in order to get them tomorrow morning I would have to go to the dealership and I am sure they would charge like $50+ for these grommets alone.
Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this
- Thread starter Doat
- Start date
Yeah, dealerships like to rape us... I took mine out using a very small screwdriver. Put it in at a 45° angle and pulled out. All the basket filters seemed to come out just fine.
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Sent from my G2x using Tapatalk 2
actually some dealer parts are fairly reasonable. wouldnt be a terrible idea to at least call them and get a quote.
Found an Advanced Auto Parts has 5 of seal kits in stock I just picked them up going to pick up the 6th one tomorrow morning. Tonight I am going to replace the grommets, the seats underneath the O ring and might as well just replace the O rings again. For the grommet that sits under the O ring do you lubricate that or just slide it on? It seems to be loose fitting to allow the injectors to rotate. Do I just lubricate the O rings at the top or lubricate everything with vaseline?
I replaced the first 5 injectors including injector 1 that was giving me the leak and I noticed there is an extra O ring in the kit that is larger than the other O ring where does this go?
The O ring in the middle is the O ring that goes on the injector that goes inside of the fuel rail.
The O ring in the middle is the O ring that goes on the injector that goes inside of the fuel rail.
No more fuel leak, she starts up fine and idles smooth and quiet other than a little stutter at times from it not being timed right but I drove it around the neighborhood for a little bit and drives very well.
So when I get a hold of a timing light, I loosen the CPS bolt, set the car in diagnostic mode, connect the timing light to spark plug #1, start the motor, shine the light on the crank and it should show a white line and I need to adjust the CPS so the white line lines up with the 10 mark on the timing cover. In the event that my timing is somehow way off that I cannot get it to line up what do I do then?
then you didnt put your timing belt on right and you'll have to re-attempt the "installing a new timing belt" process.
I hope it doesn't come to that lol. Well The car seems to run fine, it idles a little low and rough and when I am driving at low RPMs like 1500-25000 the car judders but that is from the timing being off right? I also installed the new shifter bushing and my god what a difference, the shifter feels so much tighter and solid.
As requested here are some pics of the interior, excuse the mess in the passenger side I took the pics right after I installed the bushing. I'll get exterior pics after I wash it when I get the car timed on Monday.
Yes I know I need a new head unit badly, 81,000 miles on the clock all original.
The interior is in great shape other than the arm rest being flat, coin holder flap pops open randomly, and the shifter. Exterior is pretty much the same other than the front bumper, small dent behind the driver door and a scratch on the passenger rear quarter panel. Like I said after I wash the car, only power washing and spray foam soap not using the car wash brushes, I will take more pics because that is when the pearl white shines.
As requested here are some pics of the interior, excuse the mess in the passenger side I took the pics right after I installed the bushing. I'll get exterior pics after I wash it when I get the car timed on Monday.
Yes I know I need a new head unit badly, 81,000 miles on the clock all original.
The interior is in great shape other than the arm rest being flat, coin holder flap pops open randomly, and the shifter. Exterior is pretty much the same other than the front bumper, small dent behind the driver door and a scratch on the passenger rear quarter panel. Like I said after I wash the car, only power washing and spray foam soap not using the car wash brushes, I will take more pics because that is when the pearl white shines.
Fel-pro aren't that bad. I went 11.5 with the Fel-pro hg. So many people hate on it don't see why. Works fine, I was over 500 hp at the crank with it till it finally blew with to much timing.
I have researched their gaskets and they are good, same as OEM and when I got it and compared it to the OEM gasket it looked exactly the same.Devin LeBlanc;1865476 said:
I just want to know if my idling problem is due to my timing being off, I replaced the seal in the idle control valve then started the motor again after like 1 or 2 minutes it was getting rough then it finally stalled and I heard a few clicks from the idle control valve. According to the TSRM that means it is working, so that is why I figure it's my timing causing it to run like that.
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I think I may have messed up while putting the timing belt on because if it were on correctly then wouldn't I be able to adjust the CPS to the 10 degree by guessing and the motor wouldn't stall or run rough? If I turn the CPS clockwise to the max that is when it runs a little rough and stalls when it starts to warm up and if I turn it counter clockwise it will stall. I also wonder if it may just be my CPS moving when I put it in.
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It seems that my timing belt jumped a tooth when I put it on. Crank stops 10 degrees past 0 when cams are lined up
Alright here is why my timing is off and can't be advanced anymore. I adjusted the CPS to where the hole in the gear lines up with the notch, when I removed it the CPS was still in that position, but when I put it back in and adjusted it to where it lines up with the hole and notch here is what happens.
It is a little off yea I know but ignore that for now
Here is the hole where the bolt goes
How can I solve this problem? I think that is why I cannot guess my timing around the 10 degree mark when I adjust it while the car is running because I cannot get to that point.
It is a little off yea I know but ignore that for now
Here is the hole where the bolt goes
How can I solve this problem? I think that is why I cannot guess my timing around the 10 degree mark when I adjust it while the car is running because I cannot get to that point.
Yea I know I will be using a light tomorrow at a friend's shop but I want to also try to get it as close as I can to minimize the car running rough and stalling while driving the car there lol. The place is like 5 minutes away. Either way how can I fix this or is this even a problem to begin with?
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I am trying to avoid going to my friend's shop and finding out that my timing belt is off when I think it may be off right now, so that way I can have it all set right and just have the ignition timed right.
im confused
1st your timing is off and you going to guess where 10 degree is at?????do you have mystical powers?
if your timing belt is wrong and you think its wrong thheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeennnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn gggggggggggggggoooooooooooooooooo check it
1st your timing is off and you going to guess where 10 degree is at?????do you have mystical powers?
if your timing belt is wrong and you think its wrong thheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeennnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn gggggggggggggggoooooooooooooooooo check it
lol I am going to get it checked with a timing light tomorrow errr today but I want to get the car to run decently while I take it to the shop down the road. Today I noticed with the cams lined up with the notch the crank is not lined up with 0 it's about 10 degrees past it. Like I said the car will stall if I adjust the CPS counter clockwise and to get it to where it won't stall right away I have to turn it completely clockwise, so something isn't right if I can't even guess to get it close to where it won't stall or run rough.