Lol I know this is probably a stupid problem but I have the dipstick in the block, I don't see any signs of bends and I can't even bend the tube myself so I highly doubt it got bent while it was sitting on the roof of the car while I changed the gasket, and I can feel it sort of seat into place if I unbolt it and push it in further and I don't see it going on another way. This problem is so weird lol. I will investigate further tomorrow and play around with it I hope I have it on backwards or turned around lol.
Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this
- Thread starter Doat
- Start date
The small metal tube that slides down into the block does bend and move. In fact I removed mine from my block when rebuilding it. The bent angle holds it in, when you straighten it, it allows you to remove it. Just try adjusting the angle of how far it is bent. Hopefully that will resolve your clearance issue.
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doat, that is interesting. my dipstick attaches to the removable plate used to seal the water cooling inlet/outlet that is not in use on my turbo. it does not screw directly into the housing. and my dipstick fits perfectly! 
my turbo (stock ct26) has 3 areas where shit gets attached between the compressor housing and the turbine housing. 1 is the oil inlet/outlet. 1 is the water inlet/outlet, and the 3rd is just a plate that covers another water inlet/outlet. this 3rd plate has an extra hole where the dipstick attaches.
check yours out, and if you dont see anything similar, i'll take a photo later tonight and post it for you.
my turbo (stock ct26) has 3 areas where shit gets attached between the compressor housing and the turbine housing. 1 is the oil inlet/outlet. 1 is the water inlet/outlet, and the 3rd is just a plate that covers another water inlet/outlet. this 3rd plate has an extra hole where the dipstick attaches.
check yours out, and if you dont see anything similar, i'll take a photo later tonight and post it for you.
I think I bent the bracket just enough to get it to bolt on while it's seated, after playing with it I pushed the dipstick to where I can feel it seat then looked at where the bracket bolt is on the turbo housing and it lined up. I am going to take her around the neighborhood then stop on a clean area on my driveway and see if it still dribbles oil.
Drove her around the neighborhood once she warmed up I hit boost a couple of times, can't help it really lol, stopped in my driveway and watched it for a minute or two and no leak not a single drop. Thanks again everyone.
What do you guys think of a Turbo XS manual boost controller? I know our CT26s and stock motors can go up to 10-12psi before hitting fuel cut. Do I need to do anything to the motor to increase the boost a little bit?
Stock FCO on stock electronics, you'll be fine.
Those manual boost controllers are pretty simple, don't know that I'd pay what they're asking for for that particular one, when there are $20 eBay ones available that do the same thing. (Or, you can make one for about $10 with Home Depot parts, assuming that you've got basic tools like a drill.)
I have a couple of home-built ones, one of which I'm using.
Those manual boost controllers are pretty simple, don't know that I'd pay what they're asking for for that particular one, when there are $20 eBay ones available that do the same thing. (Or, you can make one for about $10 with Home Depot parts, assuming that you've got basic tools like a drill.)
I have a couple of home-built ones, one of which I'm using.
My friend is selling it to me for $40, it's $80 new and good quality from what I have researched about it. Yea I have also seen some videos on making one yourself but I don't want to risk that right now lol. They do seem to be very simple and easy to make but I rather pay for a good one that is easy to adjust and properly made.
Oh earlier today when I drove the car I heard a very light ticking sound but when I hit boost and such I didn't hear it then when I got home and stopped in my driveway to check the oil leak I heard it at idle. Could it be developing a rod knock? Tomorrow I will start it up and listen around to find out where it is coming from but should I change the oil to 10w-30?
Not sure about what these guys recommend for oil, but as far as the knock is concerned, if you believe it is a knock you can isolate it by removing spark plugs one at a time while running beginning at number 1. If the sounds persists and you don't notice it go away after running through them all it might be just noisy in the head with the valves.
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Ah, does anyone else with a 7M hear a light ticking sound? When I was driving it I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary car pulled fine and the noise went away as I hit boost. I assume if it is a rod knock it would have gotten louder. It sounds very similar to this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI3Fj4JsYkM but as I rev and drive the car sounds perfectly normal and smooth.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI3Fj4JsYkM but as I rev and drive the car sounds perfectly normal and smooth.
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Ticking can be a lot of things. I can't really tell from that video myself.
Exhaust leaks can sound like that. Injectors can be a bit noisy, could be valve train noise, too. Get a mechanic's stethescope (Or use a long screwdriver held to your ear) and localize the noise a bit.
Exhaust leaks can sound like that. Injectors can be a bit noisy, could be valve train noise, too. Get a mechanic's stethescope (Or use a long screwdriver held to your ear) and localize the noise a bit.
I just started it up and listened around I can hear it clearly from the exhaust side toward the back of the motor. Here is a video I recorded
I might just have to tighten the exhaust nuts some more because I didn't use the torque wrench when I had one on them, slap my forehead.
I might just have to tighten the exhaust nuts some more because I didn't use the torque wrench when I had one on them, slap my forehead.
That sounds like an exhaust leak. It probably makes the noise more when the engine is loaded and your pushing more exhaust through (or exhaust manifold pressure is higher). Check your exhaust studs and make sure they are torqued ok and not just spinning in the head. Also, I haven't read through the entire thread, but what type of gasket did you use on the EGR cooling plate? If it was a cardboard one like a lot of 3rd party manufacturers make then it may have burned up and let go. Genuine Toyota one is metal.
I used a felpro gasket on the EGR cooling plate, the oem gasket that was on there was similar to what I used I had to scrape it off and cleaned the cooling plate it sure as hell was not metal lol.
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Felpro gasket is a cardboard one...I used the same one in my rebuild. It lasted about 350 miles and then gave up . That gasket is a PITA to change with the engine in the car too.....my big hands and fat fingers got too frustrated (and bloody) so I ended up paying a shop to do it for me.
. That gasket is a PITA to change with the engine in the car too.....my big hands and fat fingers got too frustrated (and bloody) so I ended up paying a shop to do it for me.I am seriously hoping I just need to tighten the exhaust studs lol, don't some people on here block off the EGR cooling plate?
The stock ECU is tuned to run with the EGR. Blocking it off will make you run leaner on cruise and slight load as well as drastically increases your EGT's. It's not advised unless you are running a JDM ECU (didn't have an EGR) or a standalone that's tuned not to have it.
Exhaust stud being loose can also be nasty. The aluminum in the head anneals when it gets hot, essentially making it softer. It's not uncommon for the head to have annealed by the exhaust ports and the stud to strip out the hole in the head. That is why this exists:
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-716exhauststudkit.php
It's basically a kit put together to drill out and tap the exhaust stud holes to a larger size so you (hopefully) won't have this problem anymore. Unfortunately, also a big pain to do with the engine in the car already. The strut tower makes it very hard to get clearance with a drill on the back holes. Cutting the length of the bit down and using a 90* drill is almost a must.
Exhaust stud being loose can also be nasty. The aluminum in the head anneals when it gets hot, essentially making it softer. It's not uncommon for the head to have annealed by the exhaust ports and the stud to strip out the hole in the head. That is why this exists:
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-716exhauststudkit.php
It's basically a kit put together to drill out and tap the exhaust stud holes to a larger size so you (hopefully) won't have this problem anymore. Unfortunately, also a big pain to do with the engine in the car already. The strut tower makes it very hard to get clearance with a drill on the back holes. Cutting the length of the bit down and using a 90* drill is almost a must.