What did you do to your supra today? Pics
- Thread starter boostinsupra
- Start date
debrucer
Supramania Contributor
GC89;2082621 said:
Officially retired; but, still involved on a regular basis. I would love to sell the car just about any time; but, there's too much work here, and the likelyhood of someone else finishing it is nul. There are still two or three very expensive steps. At this point, I am just taking each task as far as I can take it. There are several parts that get fitted five or six times. Progress isn't always obvious.
debrucer
Supramania Contributor
Here is a picture of my engine bay wiring harness:
<sorry. deleted spam infested photo bucket accounts... screws up years of pictures here>
It has been repaired, wrapped and re-wrapped many times; but, I have taken all of the tape and lots of heat-shrink off. I found the whole harness to be very sticky and it all seemed to be coming from everything but the plastic of the individual wires. After cleaning carefully with "Goo Gone" it is tolerable to touch. Need to find material (tape) to put it back together without re-introducing the stickyness.
I will definitely have to do some research on how to go about getting it re-wrapped into something that looks like a Supra wiring harness. This was one of those three remaining expensive steps, $1500 to $2000 for a wiring harness, if and when I could get it... you know, on my schedule, on my budget
I have been eyeing an empty wall in the garage and thinking about a 4' x 4' board with nails up and down that will let me separate the various bundles for repairs without destroying the built-in shape required to someday go back in the car. Anybody have any suggestions or ideas here, I'd love to hear them.
David
<sorry. deleted spam infested photo bucket accounts... screws up years of pictures here>
It has been repaired, wrapped and re-wrapped many times; but, I have taken all of the tape and lots of heat-shrink off. I found the whole harness to be very sticky and it all seemed to be coming from everything but the plastic of the individual wires. After cleaning carefully with "Goo Gone" it is tolerable to touch. Need to find material (tape) to put it back together without re-introducing the stickyness.
I will definitely have to do some research on how to go about getting it re-wrapped into something that looks like a Supra wiring harness. This was one of those three remaining expensive steps, $1500 to $2000 for a wiring harness, if and when I could get it... you know, on my schedule, on my budget
I have been eyeing an empty wall in the garage and thinking about a 4' x 4' board with nails up and down that will let me separate the various bundles for repairs without destroying the built-in shape required to someday go back in the car. Anybody have any suggestions or ideas here, I'd love to hear them.
David
Last edited:
Try this tape.
https://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Tape-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Rectangular/dp/B00AZOK55G
It is what we use in the military for aircraft wiring repair. It stretches and sticks to itself and has a good heat range. Not really cheap though but you don't get any stickiness like you do with vinyl tape. We only have orange and black though. we finish it off with this.
https://www.amazon.com/Waxed-Lacing-Tape-Spool-White/dp/B005PQRLTC
there is a technique to tie it off. Lots of youtube videos on it.
Another tape here
http://www.xtremetape.com/
https://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Tape-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Rectangular/dp/B00AZOK55G
It is what we use in the military for aircraft wiring repair. It stretches and sticks to itself and has a good heat range. Not really cheap though but you don't get any stickiness like you do with vinyl tape. We only have orange and black though. we finish it off with this.
https://www.amazon.com/Waxed-Lacing-Tape-Spool-White/dp/B005PQRLTC
there is a technique to tie it off. Lots of youtube videos on it.
Another tape here
http://www.xtremetape.com/
debrucer
Supramania Contributor
GC89;2082621 said:
I do own this domain toyotasupraturbo.com but there's nothing hosted there currently
debrucer
Supramania Contributor
f00g00;2082813 said:
Thanks! Nice links! Harbor Freight has tape like that and I have used it. Seemed to work pretty well. I screwed up and pulled it too tight, so the next day there was a tear line all the way down the harness. Instead of taking it off, I covered it again using less pressure. The whole thing got too rigid; but, I think you are right, this tape isn't the sticky part. I worked for Bowman Distribution forty years ago, and they sold an electrical tape that was rated best... and it sold like crazy to people who knew. These years later, I'm not sure what it was that made it better. I'm quite sure it wasn't sticky.
Thanks again for the links. One day I will post the result
David
sheedy126;2083110 said:Assembled/setup my head this afternoon.
Tru time cam gears make a nice touch
Port and polish as well?
I found fog lights that fit with the Gracer Bumper! More pictures when I properly mount them with brackets. But here's a teaser:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A-to-the-J;2084950 said:I found fog lights that fit with the Gracer Bumper! More pictures when I properly mount them with brackets. But here's a teaser:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
More info please!!
akito;2085108 said:
As soon as they're properly mounted, I'll be happy to share. But to give you a hint, go to your local junk yard with measuring tape. I'll post up all progress pics and everything. Hopefully this weekend.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
debrucer
Supramania Contributor
My Supra love has been going on for 11 years now. This site, SupraMania, remains an inspiration for me. My goal now is to finish in 2017. Wish me luck! That said, I had a heart attack last Tuesday and I'm resting quietly at home this week... and watching a lot of videos. There are four or five welding jobs that must be completed to finish: pin-holes under the hood and in the spare tire well, a bracket for the front nose-piece, a captive nut for the driver's seat rails, and brackets for the six-point harnesses,... 36" of welds, at most. That said, I haven't done any welding since 1963, or braising since 1969. Bought a 90-amp, Harbor Freight, wire-feed welder almost two years ago... and the 15-amp circuit in my garage was never enough to get a weld going
A couple of weeks ago I picked up a HF 8750/7000 watt generator with 120v and 240v. My existing 15-amp circuit (compressor takes 13.2) is shared with four other garages. The low-end HF generator has a "20-amp" outlet, restricted to 13-amps with a circuit breaker, so there was no doing this cheap. The generator I got has two 20-amp circuits and one 30-amp 240 circuit. My HF 90-amp wire-feed flux welder will have full power, which is hopefully enough for me to re-learn to lay a pretty bead. If needed, I can upgrade to a better welder, and I have my eyes on Argon.
My 99-dollar welder has the right tip, right spool, right feed roller, all of that. The unfortunate part is that it's AC output, so it spatters... a lot. There are a couple of little mods and suggestions for making it better, but, nothing would help more than it being DC output. It can be done, for me, the capacitors would be excessively expensive, making an otherwise, 30-dollar mod, not practical, vs. the next model welder up. Clearly, Harbor Freight can be cheap stuff... it is cheap stuff that I wouldn't otherwise have.
The journey is just as important as the destination. The tools, the setup, the procedures and safety precautions, all as important as the job.
Things like 12-gauge extensions to all corners of the garage, 10-gauge extension on the compressor, grounding on the generator (although, some say the generator case is ground), proper adapters and extensions everywhere, and fire-extinguishers in every corner. My garage is located in a commercial building and my lease stipulates that I can do just about anything: specifically, welding, painting, running the compressor and generator... without any serious complaints. Four other garages in the building contain 3 vintage sports cars, a metal fabrication shop, a car-wrapper and a bunch of scooters stacked for a retail store. Good company, and a bunch of friends to teach me shit
As for the Supra re-fitting, there is still something going on with the heater controls down just above the steering column. I have a feeling that it needs to be done already, but, I'm still not sure how to run the speedo cable properly. I have a decent dash with a minor exception, my mind keeps seeing the six new gauges and a huge touch-screen monitor. I will save or sell the original dash so it can always become an option if what I do turns out badly. If I spend 1000 bucks on gauges, that means another 1000 will have to be spent on either a stand-alone or a piggy-back management system. I see no reason not to highlight that 2000 and the fact that I actually got it all working... which by this point, will be The heart willing.
Engine machine work was done many years ago and I found out the day I picked it up at the shop that there were two other jobs that needed to be done. Align hone of the crank, and also on the big-end of the rods. This was due to ARP bolts being used (but, not available at the time of machine work). While we're going back to the machine shop ("the", but not the same one), I will going for balancing, as well.
Before this can be done, must make two decisions.
One: Do I use the lightened crank pulley I purchased? Answer: Probably not.
Two: Which clutch, pressure plate and flywheel do I use? Answer: Probably neither of the two clutches I purchased years ago... and yes, on the aluminum flywheel.
Well, those two answers reflect the decisions I've made based on information contained on this site over these years. I will re-visit both next week.
Starting to go back together makes me look more closely are certain finishes and I'm getting exciting about powder coating... almost as much as welding. I definitely see myself doing both in the future. Two new, otherwise, unexpected projects which could easily keep me from "finishing" in 2017.
A couple of weeks ago I picked up a HF 8750/7000 watt generator with 120v and 240v. My existing 15-amp circuit (compressor takes 13.2) is shared with four other garages. The low-end HF generator has a "20-amp" outlet, restricted to 13-amps with a circuit breaker, so there was no doing this cheap. The generator I got has two 20-amp circuits and one 30-amp 240 circuit. My HF 90-amp wire-feed flux welder will have full power, which is hopefully enough for me to re-learn to lay a pretty bead. If needed, I can upgrade to a better welder, and I have my eyes on Argon.
My 99-dollar welder has the right tip, right spool, right feed roller, all of that. The unfortunate part is that it's AC output, so it spatters... a lot. There are a couple of little mods and suggestions for making it better, but, nothing would help more than it being DC output. It can be done, for me, the capacitors would be excessively expensive, making an otherwise, 30-dollar mod, not practical, vs. the next model welder up. Clearly, Harbor Freight can be cheap stuff... it is cheap stuff that I wouldn't otherwise have.
The journey is just as important as the destination. The tools, the setup, the procedures and safety precautions, all as important as the job.
Things like 12-gauge extensions to all corners of the garage, 10-gauge extension on the compressor, grounding on the generator (although, some say the generator case is ground), proper adapters and extensions everywhere, and fire-extinguishers in every corner. My garage is located in a commercial building and my lease stipulates that I can do just about anything: specifically, welding, painting, running the compressor and generator... without any serious complaints. Four other garages in the building contain 3 vintage sports cars, a metal fabrication shop, a car-wrapper and a bunch of scooters stacked for a retail store. Good company, and a bunch of friends to teach me shit
As for the Supra re-fitting, there is still something going on with the heater controls down just above the steering column. I have a feeling that it needs to be done already, but, I'm still not sure how to run the speedo cable properly. I have a decent dash with a minor exception, my mind keeps seeing the six new gauges and a huge touch-screen monitor. I will save or sell the original dash so it can always become an option if what I do turns out badly. If I spend 1000 bucks on gauges, that means another 1000 will have to be spent on either a stand-alone or a piggy-back management system. I see no reason not to highlight that 2000 and the fact that I actually got it all working... which by this point, will be
The heart willing.Engine machine work was done many years ago and I found out the day I picked it up at the shop that there were two other jobs that needed to be done. Align hone of the crank, and also on the big-end of the rods. This was due to ARP bolts being used (but, not available at the time of machine work). While we're going back to the machine shop ("the", but not the same one), I will going for balancing, as well.
Before this can be done, must make two decisions.
One: Do I use the lightened crank pulley I purchased? Answer: Probably not.
Two: Which clutch, pressure plate and flywheel do I use? Answer: Probably neither of the two clutches I purchased years ago... and yes, on the aluminum flywheel.
Well, those two answers reflect the decisions I've made based on information contained on this site over these years. I will re-visit both next week.
Starting to go back together makes me look more closely are certain finishes and I'm getting exciting about powder coating... almost as much as welding. I definitely see myself doing both in the future. Two new, otherwise, unexpected projects which could easily keep me from "finishing" in 2017.
Yotarip;2085205 said:Prepped my Mercedes brakes for the swap
Are those new bolts on the face? If so, where did you source those from?