Way to break in your engine???

airhead04

New Member
Aug 21, 2009
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Lima, Ohio, United States
So Im about to go and get my engine rebuilt. I was going to rebuild it myself, but school has takin a shit on me, in the form of homework. So Im having a shop build it. Now the shop is known for building its cars extremely nice, its similar to titan but very small. Anyways, I called them up today and asked how they recommend me to break in my engine. He told me that when they give the car back to me I can drive it however Id like. Take it to the track or drive it like a grandma. He said it didnt matter. I can drive it like I stole it if I wanted to. I asked him about going to about 4000rpms a few pulls then changing the oil. He said it didnt matter. He told me change the oil at 50 miles, 100 miles, 500 miles, and swtch to full sythetic at 1000. So I want to know what you think about this?? Good Idea? Bad Idea??
 

EdT.Mk3

Sorta Secret Supra
Aug 21, 2008
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San Diego
I did up the 4000 in 4 gears without boosting, varying the rpms around gears, then took it back home to cool down. Drove it like normal without boosting, oil changes at 500/1000 with straight 30 weight, at 1500 I went synthetic.

Check the technical forums for more info, there's hours, maybe days of reading material.
 

airhead04

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Aug 21, 2009
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Ive read and read. I read the stuff on jdubs break in methods. But this guy is saying basically, that there is no break in needed. Just changing the oil. I cant figure it out.
 

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
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Apr 17, 2007
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http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

On fresh rebuild the rings need to be seated. Off boost up to 4k 2nd gear to 4th gear and then engine break(vacuum) from 4th to 2nd and repeat. Dont go into 5th and stay out of first if possible.

Do that over and over for 50 miles. Change oil. Drive car for 500 miles varying the rpms. Change oil. After around 2k miles its safe to switch to synthetic.
 

CyFi6

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Oct 11, 2007
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Run it hard up to 4k but dont boost it is what people say. I wonder if they have owned a turbo'd car... Try as you wish but theres no way youre going to run it hard and not be in boost its not like theres a boost on off switch.
 

hvyman

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Apr 17, 2007
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True but you can run it hard with out going full boost. You want equal vacuum and equal pressure.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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airhead04;1523290 said:
Ive read and read. I read the stuff on jdubs break in methods. But this guy is saying basically, that there is no break in needed. Just changing the oil. I cant figure it out.

I see you are living up to your screen name - I said, nor implied, no such thing. Might want to re-read the sticky with an emphasis on comprehension...I honestly can't see how I could make it more clear.


hvyman;1523359 said:
After around 2k miles its safe to switch to synthetic.

1000-1500 miles is plenty.
 

BrandonW

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Jun 25, 2007
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when he said
But this guy is saying basically, that there is no break in needed. Just changing the oil. I cant figure it out.
i think he was talking about the guy thats going to or is working on his car now
 

airhead04

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Aug 21, 2009
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Lima, Ohio, United States
BrandonW;1523621 said:
i think he was talking about the guy thats going to or is working on his car now

You are correct

Jdub: I was in no way shape or form talking about you. I was talking about the guy at the shop when I said, " but this guy is basically saying there is no break in needed".
Or am I missing something?
 

92nsx

Supramania Contributor
Sep 30, 2005
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Clearwater, MN
The best??? It is more like a opinion if you ask me.

As for what I did was run the motor a few heat cycles, changed oil. Drove 20 or so miles nice and easy (no boost under 3500 rpms) just around town. Next day did a few high vacuum pulls. (5th gear, 80 mph or so and let the engine do all the slowing down). After the high vacuum pulls changed the oil again (oil is cheep). Then drove it how ever I wanted to do at 7 lbs of boost tell about 500 miles. Then turned up the boost and drove how ever I felt like driving. It is almost a mix of both ways sort of..Easy, and hard. My 2 cents
 

airhead04

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Aug 21, 2009
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Lima, Ohio, United States
92nsx;1523888 said:
The best??? It is more like a opinion if you ask me.

As for what I did was run the motor a few heat cycles, changed oil. Drove 20 or so miles nice and easy (no boost under 3500 rpms) just around town. Next day did a few high vacuum pulls. (5th gear, 80 mph or so and let the engine do all the slowing down). After the high vacuum pulls changed the oil again (oil is cheep). Then drove it how ever I wanted to do at 7 lbs of boost tell about 500 miles. Then turned up the boost and drove how ever I felt like driving. It is almost a mix of both ways sort of..Easy, and hard. My 2 cents

That is the way that I will probably end up doing it. Jus t wish I had a pro sitting in the seat next to me, to scream at me when I did or do something wrong. I cant afford to rebuild my engine again. At least not right now.
 

Nghty89

Zombie Chicks Are Hot
Mar 26, 2008
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7 Cities, VA
I did the same thing 92nsx did. High vacuum to seat my new rings, and try to stay out of boost at first. Once I hit 100 miles and 2 oil changes, I have been boosting and revv'ing full on like I would normally drive. I will admit, she is a bat out of hell. I don't know how it is doing what it is on 7-8psi... but it is amazing. Dyno coming soon once I hit the 700 mile mark.

From everything I have read, as long as everything is kosher and clean and in good working order, once you get the initial seating done and the first 2 oil changes in, drive it like you normally would. I beat the crap out of my cars, and the only car's I have ever had engine trouble with were the old supra and the nova. All my other cars were broken in by me the way I like/feel is the best, and so far they were all dreams.

THIS IS ALL OPINION. The only fact I have to go on is that a lot of people agree with the easy/hard break-in method, as well as my own personal ideas on it. I did this build right, and so far she is amazing. Just don't forget your head re-torque after your first 5 heat cycles/ or 500 miles. (this may just be ARP hardware, but it seems like a good idea regardless for any vehicular part prone to thermal expansion)