Upgrading Factory Alarm

Silver MK3

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Jan 24, 2011
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Hey guys, I have an 87 Supra that has the factory alarm and it is in perfect working order. I am looking at ways to upgrade the alarm. I looked at aftermarket alarms, and I don't know that I could install one myself, and I wasn't real impressed with what all the shops in the local area told me. None of them seemed very well informed, and I wouldn't really trust them working on my car. I read that it is possible to add a glass break sensor to the factory alarm like the TDSE option in 91 and 92, and was hoping you guys could give me more information on this like:

How exactly do you wire this in?

What is a good brand of sensor to use?

If anyone has any suggestions or information it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Gavyn
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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My stock alarm, which worked flawlessly for over 20 years, had the following modifications:

1) Glass/shock/tilt.

2) Proximity (for when the targa was off)

3) Fuel pump disable (instead of starter).

None of it is difficult using the EWD. Toyota screwed up the 87 one though.
 

Silver MK3

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Jan 24, 2011
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Thanks for the response.

I have a few more questions:

Is there any certain brand I should be using? I'm looking at DEI products.

When I buy the sensor will it come complete with everything I need, or will I need other components to make it work?

What was wrong with the 87 EWD?

Thanks again for any input.
 

jetjock

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Any brand device that supplies ground when active will work. Connect them to the most convenient stock trigger input.

They should come with everything needed although you may have to supply power and ground to some depending on what they do.

The printed 87 EWD had the pin numbers wrong for the box. The later EWD as well as the online one is correct.

The fuel pump disable will require minor wiring changes in the right foot well where the stater relay and COR live.

Another addition I forget to mention was monitoring of the fuel filler door. Easily done using a short pin switch connected to the rear hatch trigger.
 

Silver MK3

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Jan 24, 2011
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Thanks for all of the information, you have been very helpful. I think I am finally starting to get it.

I am probably going to install the DEI 504M Shock Sensor, and the DEI 506T Glass Break Sensor. The power and ground wiring is pretty sraight forward, but the part I am worried about is tying into the trigger wire. On the instructions for the two sensors they both show using diodes before tying into the trigger wire. I drew this diagram and was wondering if you could tell me if it is correct? Would I even need the diodes?

Thanks again for all the help.

p1856199_1.jpg
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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That'll work or you can connect each sensor to a different trigger and forget the diodes. The 504M appears to be dual stage which is something the stock alarm doesn't support. If you want the warn-away function it'll have to wired separately into the horn or integration relay. If I were you I'd just do without it.
 

Silver MK3

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Jan 24, 2011
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I got the sensors in the mail the other day, and have been postponing installing them because it is so hot outside. I do have one more question.

The shock sensor I got has a fuse holder built into the power wire that has a 3 Amp fuse in it, but the glass break sensor does not. I am looking at getting power through the radio, and was wondering if I need to add a fuse to the glass break sensor or not since it is coming through the radio power that has a fuse already? If so, would I just need another 3 Amp fuse?

Thanks again for all your help!
 

suprarx7nut

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Nov 10, 2006
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Whoa. A relatively new poster who knows how to read a wiring diagram, understands and follows basic advice and is thankful? This must be a trick. This doesn't actually happen... does it?

Welcome and please continue to post. :)
 

destrux

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May 19, 2010
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You should add a fuse to the wire if the wire is a smaller gauge than the wire already going to the radio.
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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suprarx7nut;1862333 said:
Whoa. A relatively new poster who knows how to read a wiring diagram, understands and follows basic advice and is thankful? This must be a trick. This doesn't actually happen... does it? Welcome and please continue to post. :)

Not only that but he doesn't write like a 10 year old.

OP: Just power the glass sensor off the shock sensor...
 

Silver MK3

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Jan 24, 2011
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Thanks, I try to write well and ask intelligent questions. Also, thanks again jetjock for the answer, thats what I will do. I'll post back when I finally get this done, hopefully it all goes smoothly.
 

Silver MK3

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Where did you physically tie into the wiring? Did you go just above the plug that goes into the computer, or is there an easier location? It seems that it would be extremely difficult to strip the wires and solder the connection with the new wire included with how far up in the plug is. I was also thinking about taking the wires out of there pin connector, twisting the new wire onto the existing wire, crimping a new pin connector back on, and then reinserting it back into the plug...

Thoughts or help?
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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Depends on where you install the sensors but either at the computer or in the foot wells works. For alarming the fuel door use the hatch trigger. Best to use high quality butt splices (eg, PIDG) crimped with the proper tooling but solder (ugh) will do. Stay away from IDC.
 

Silver MK3

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Jan 24, 2011
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So I finally got around to installing the sensors today and I ran into a problem... I wired the glass break sensor into the trigger wire for the hatch and hood switch and it worked perfectly but the shock sensor wouldn't work. I wired this into the trigger wire for the left and right doors. All of the other triggers worked(both doors, hood, hatch, and glass break sensor), but the shock sensor would not. I know the shock sensor is getting power because the green led on the shock sensor would light up when it sensed a shock.

On the instructions for the shock sensor it said to put a diode into the wire from the shock sensor to the alarm brain and a diode into the wire from the door switches to the alarm brain. I did this thinking it would fix the problem, but it didn't. Now the alarm light won't even come on and the alarm will not set. I have no clue what the problem is, and I'm hoping someone here sees the problem. I included the schematics from the wiring diagram and how I wired the sensors in to help you guys see what I did. Above the schematic I put the color of the wire and what the instructions said to wire it to along with the pin number and the pin description from the wiring diagram in the second pic.

p1917571_1.jpg

p1917571_2.jpg


Thanks in advance for any help, I really appreciate it.
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Remove the diodes. Don't need them. Otherwise what you have there should work. Check to see if the shock sensor trigger goes low when activated. Course, you can also ground that line (while still connected to pin 7)) to see if it triggers the alarm. One or the other isn't doing its thing...