Transmission Problem

[cuel]

I think if this was me, I'd put a crank kit in it. I would really hate to cut down all the high spots, and reassemble it all, only to have a vibration because the crank is out of balance. Guess it would depend on how much metal you have to remove from just one side.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Yeah, depends on how bad it is, how many miles on the motor, If a lot I'd use it as a excuse to rebuild. If it's not too bad, try to cut down the high spots and see what happens. No more than have to rebuild it which is what the garage wants to do now, right?

 

[chris89]

Well it's a freshly rebuilt engine with less than 7k... There was a vibration at high rpm... I hate this so much, I'll get some pics of it to give you a good idea of what it looks like.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Well it's a freshly rebuilt engine with less than 7k... There was a vibration at high rpm... I hate this so much, I'll get some pics of it to give you a good idea of what it looks like.

Bummer. The vibration, was that happening after the clutch install? If so could have been that.
I'd still do the best you can with the crank in place, just knock off the high spots. Being that close to the center of rotation may not be to bad as far as balance. We'll wait for the pics. Did you mark the pressure plate before you took it off?

 

[chris89]

what do u mean mark it?... I left the clutch on the car when i had toyota look at it, They just pulled it off. I've had the vibration ever since i had it rebuilt...

 

[kHaNg]

my auto trans craped out on my yesturday evening jus redlining on the highway after about 5 minutes of steady driving , didnt get into the gear to the wheels. couldnt stop on hills
seriously like driving a dead clutch with no hope..

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

what do u mean mark it?... I left the clutch on the car when i had toyota look at it, They just pulled it off. I've had the vibration ever since i had it rebuilt...

Marked the PP before you unbolted it so it can be installed in the same spot if you are going to reuse the PP.
Did you have the vibration while driving or just free reving?

 

[chris89]

only when free reving at high rpm. When i take up to 4k it's Super smooth power, but at 5,000rpm+ there's a vibration like there's a lot of rotating mass and seems like it's not very well balanced.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

only when free reving at high rpm. When i take up to 4k it's Super smooth power, but at 5,000rpm+ there's a vibration like there's a lot of rotating mass and seems like it's not very well balanced.

I'd try to fix the crank(pics?) with the flywheel being cocked the way it was, would cause the vibration. And with the clutch assembly mounted to it would have added a lot of un-balance. I guess see what happens when you put it back together. I hope you haven't messed up the crank bearings due to the unbalanced rotating mass on the end of it.

 

[chris89]

I took a pic of it, I'll have it up tonight.

 

[chris89]

Here's what my crank looks like...

 

[chris89]

Oh and does anyone have anything to say about lock tite?

 

[IJ.]

It could be ground/repaired

Loctite: is a wide-ranging brand of adhesives which includes acrylics, anaerobics, cyanoacrylates, epoxies, hot melts, silicones, urethanes and UV/light curing adhesives.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

That looks pretty boogered up. Can't really tell if you can smooth it out by the pic. Towards the bottom it looks like it's dished out, like something has ground it out. You'll proably have to put a straight edge on it to find the high spots and see it you can salvage it in place, check it with the flywheel if you grind any on it to see if it will set flat aganist the crank. That looks like it's going to be hard to save it in place without pulling the motor. You will proablly need a pilot bearing either way.

 

[cuel]

Just out of curiosity, what does the back of the flywheel look like?

 

[chris89]

I'll take a pic of it the flywheel later, But It looks the same as the crank, kind of boogered up. On the bottom of the crank is where toyota attempted to repair, but they decided it needed a new crank.

 

[suprahero]

Oh and does anyone have anything to say about lock tite?

Loctite: is a wide-ranging brand of adhesives which includes acrylics, anaerobics, cyanoacrylates, epoxies, hot melts, silicones, urethanes and UV/light curing adhesives.

You sir are not right.................

I think he told you in a earlier post to use 262.......I don't know what that is, but I bet he does.

 

[cuel]

I think I'd try to take the high spots off with a flat file. Yes, its slow, but if you take off to much, how are you gonna fill it? Don't take a grinder to it, it'll cut to fast, making it very difficult to control, and it'll also get the steel pretty hot. Take the flywheel to a machine shop, and have them resurface both sides.

 

[Rennat]

Kind of crazy how this started out as a minor "clutch problem" into a how the hell did this happen kind of thing... sucks man. hope it doesnt take too long though.

 

[cuel]

Hmmm.... I thought I remembered you having a similar problem before. Turns out I was right:

05-20-2005: "I FOUND OUT WHAT IT WAS! IT WAS THE FLYWHEEL BOLTS, THEY LOOSENED UP.... And that's what it sounds like! I torqued them to 55 lb. ft. like in the Manual.... This time i Torqued them to 65 ft. lbs. JUST TO BE SURE, OMG I'M SO HAPPY!"
Sounds like this is where your problem originated. When the flywheel bolts were loose, the shearing force of the crank vs. the flywheel probably stressed the bolts. There's also a good chance that the friction of them rubbing against each other is what caused the damage to the crank and flywheel. The high spots on the crank do look more like metal added to the crank, and not gouges with built up ridges. I'm wondering if maybe the loose bolts didn't stretch the holes "out-of-round", causing them not to hold correctly? Don't really know if this is possible. Maybe someone with some engineering experience could chime in?
I'd get new bolts at the very least.....