Tips on removing stock y pipe???????

mk3tattoos

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Apr 12, 2008
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Is it even possible to take off the stock y pipe without removing the engine? i have all the bolts off except that one that is near the engine on rear turbo, man it seems to be impossible to get to. i even cut some tools down to get in there but theres no room to loosen it up.

please any tips or tricks would be very much appreciated. thanks guys!!!!
 

GrimJack

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Have you tried hiring the next door neighbor's 10 year old kid and greasing up his arms?

Seriously, though - ratcheting swivel head wrenches, wobbles for your sockets, and more than likely a fair bit of skin and blood left behind is the only way.
 

SeanMcCabe

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May 29, 2008
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GrimJack;1584085 said:
Have you tried hiring the next door neighbor's 10 year old kid and greasing up his arms?

Seriously, though - ratcheting swivel head wrenches, wobbles for your sockets, and more than likely a fair bit of skin and blood left behind is the only way.

Yep... That thing was a bitch to get off with the engine out lol.
 

mk3tattoos

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Apr 12, 2008
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oh dam! looks like i will be removing the turbos then, a 5hr job. is it even worth it. i realy want to though because i want to install my innovate wideband, because i will be tuning it as soon as i get it on the street. thanks fella's
 

r45marsh

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Sep 22, 2007
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I had the same situation. Loosened Rear turbo to manifold bolts, removed all front turbo bolts to manifold, all y-pipe bolts. Vaguely remember I had to remove some of the studs for the front turbo to manifold and the oil return lines for both turbos. Massive mounts of beer/tequila and a formidable knowledge of cuss words in multiple languages is a MUST HAVE. Another dealmaker item is set of gear-ratchet wrenches.

Used prybar to move rear turbo out ~1-2" while pulling front turbo & y-pipe over the remaining studs. Reverse to reinstall. Also had to grind down 2 nuts for inner/lower y-pipe studs. Good luck
 

87supraguy

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Mar 4, 2010
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seriously... i just did this job on my 1jz and it sucked... i couldn't get that one damn nut... i ended up taking the the nuts off that hold the turbos to the manifold...

but if your just gonna take it off to throw on a wideband... i agree with "OneJArpus" just buy a bung and re-weld it to the dp and your set, eff twin removals... next time i do this is to go single!!!
 

87supraguy

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:sleep::sleep:if i had the time to pull a motor yes but at the same time thinking about pulling the motor...(lazy) but it probably really is the best way.
 

mk3tattoos

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Apr 12, 2008
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its a tuff call, i want the turbos to be able to breath, is the stock y pipe reay that restrictive? i think ill just go with the down pipe and move on to the 2jz water pump. from what i hear the hydro fan sucks and seals are usualy bad and will leak.
 

mk3tattoos

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Apr 12, 2008
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thats a good point, since the hydro fan is all hooked up and ready to go i should focus on removing the intake and remove the jza70 harness and prepair to install the uncut jzz30 harness.

if i do end up removing the turbos to install the y pipe should i get new gaskets for the turbo? I have gaskets for the y pipe.

one more question, i notices that one of the rack and pinun lines was not hooked up, do i need to buy a new line so it will work?
 

te72

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Mar 26, 2006
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If you're wanting to change out the y-pipe with that ebay special one, I say go for it if you're in no particular hurry to drive your car tomorrow. It took us a couple days to get it done because we underestimated our opponent (my particular mk3), when, had we thought it through as being one of the most difficult things to do on a Mk3... it would have only taken maybe 5-6 hours. Things I would recommend:

-PB Blaster. Get ALL the turbo to manifold and turbo to y-pipe studs sprayed the night before.
-Good set of needle nose vice grips, to remove the studs.
-Like mentioned above, a good selection of tools never hurts.

As I said, PB all those studs the night before, let it soak in nicely. It'll make your life a lot easier tomorrow. If I had to do it again, I would loosen the y-pipe nuts and then go about removing the front turbo, then installing the y-pipe, and reinstalling the front turbo, tightening everything up again, etc... That's how I'd do it anyway, your mileage may vary depending on how much your car likes to see you suffer. Mine's a real bitch. :p

I would recommend wrapping the y-pipe and downpipe with header wrap though, the steel is kinda thin... and don't be surprised if thing's don't *quite* bolt up perfectly, it's cheap for a reason. Is it worth it? I'd say so, I went from ~8psi to being able to see ~12, made a nice improvement. You'll also hear the turbos a bit more too... Oh, and while you're in there, do yourself the favor of replacing your coolant lines around the turbos if you haven't already done so. Right after we did mine, one sprung a leak. Another good idea (considering how much crap you're likely to loosen) is to WRITE DOWN WHATEVER YOU LOOSEN, that way you have a checklist to go against when you're putting it all back together. ;)
 

mk3tattoos

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Apr 12, 2008
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te72 that was so very helpfull, mattsplatt said it perfectly! i will be able to do it alot more efficiently now. i started pb blasting all the studs and bolts!
 

te72

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Glad to help. What I offered though is just the outline of how to do this... I won't say it's gonna be easy, by any means. Hopefully the tips in here will make it a little less likely that you're gonna want to rip your hair out before it's said and done. ;)
 

mk3tattoos

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Apr 12, 2008
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i dont expect it to be to easy, but i do have alot of time and i plan on taking it slow with this build so it is done right. i have alot of work to do and i take it week by week:) i will report back today after attempt it.
 

mk3tattoos

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Apr 12, 2008
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almost have it out, i have to take a break and take my kids to chucky cheese:) i grinded down the stock y pipe so i was able to get to the back bolt with ease, they realy tried to tuck that thing away. i should have it removed by tonight.

also removed stock down pipe, cat, and exhaust. putting in cooleeze test pipe and fujitsubo exhaust with the Y-pipe and down pipe! man that stock down pipe is horrible, and of course the y-pipe
 

te72

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Hey, for what it's worth, the stock JZA piping is certainly bigger inner diameter and somewhat better designed for flow compared to the 7m downpipe bits...