Time for a new motor

[AbsoluteSpeed]

It is time for this Canadian boy and his supra to get a new motor.
A wile ago I posted up a video if my car running to see what was wrong with it.
People said not to assume it is a rod knock and check everything. Well it was a rod knock but I still appreciated the help anyway.

So I have a used motor lined up but I do not plan on leaving it that way.:3d_frown:
I know I would just be asking for something to go wrong again. So I am planning on doing rebuild.

Now for the fun part.
I don’t want to do a basic rebuild and before any one says "FAST, RELIABLE, and CHEAP, pick two" I am looking for reliable and relatively cheap motor.
But in the future when I decide to bump up the hp to 450-500 :evil2: I don’t want to have to re-redo the bottom end.

The plan. :burnout:
Looking at balanced eagle rods with arp bolts.
JE pistons.
New head gasket with matching arp's.
Clevite bearings.
Toyota oem gasket set.
3 angle valve grind.
New valve seats.
Right now I’m not sure witch crank it has. If it's a 7m I may get some weight shaved, and if it is a 6m I will get it balanced.

Question time.
1-First, should I do anything to the crank at all or just leave it?
2-I believe that I remember hearing that the 7m has low oil pressure. Should I get a new sump or oil pump or leave it?
3-What should I do for rings?
4-What about valve springs?

It will be getting done at a shop but this will be the first time I have done anything like this.
I plan on providing the shop with all the parts so I don’t have to pay some 10% fee or anything.

I am trying to get a top to bottom list of everything required.

That’s the plan anyway, any help would be awesome!!


franco r.

 

[Quin]

Do a search for small block Chevy springs, there is a set that fits a 7M head and is a nice (read: cheap and equal or better) replacement.

New OEM oil pump, and shim it. Search for this, too.

What year is your motor? That will usually tell you what crank it has. I believe pre89s had the 6M crank. What is your redline? The 6M is 6750, 7M is a little lower due to higher rotational mass.

 

[Rennat]

Looks like your doing almost the same rebuild i am.
Although im going with Probe pistons, cheaper, and they dont slap with there specs either, plus they include rings.

I would get a 7m crank as its a full counter weighted crank and that "should" help bearing life when you start beating on it later.

If the oil pump is good, and specs are ok, then shim it 5mm and call it a day.

Valve springs - do the v8 spring mod where you just get the inner spring and you need two packs to do the entire engine...

When you get the block done, you'll want new "intermediate shaft bearings" which you need two different ones, along with all new freeze plugs which are cheap.

On the crank. im getting mine cut .10 and .10 for the rods & mains. That way i can get my oil clearance to what i want. I had a talk with IJ and we came to an agreement that i should run my motor with a little on the bigger side of the TSRM spec.

thats all i can think of right now, im sure somebody else will chime in.

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

That v8 valve spring set up must be good when the first two post mention it.
It is a 87 with blown rings but comes with everything. It's a good deal for what I am paying for it.

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Oh I forgot to ask
What would the machine work and short block build cost me minus parts?

 

[Quin]

6M crank. Btw, that new headgasket you mentioned better not be a Toyota one. MHG all the way

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Psht. oem is for the weak
I’m not going to get the block and head decked and cheap out on the head gasket.
100% metal.
Thanks for looking out though.

 

[GrimJack]

Get JE rings to match the JE pistons. Get new oil pump drive shaft bearings as well, chances are you'll have to get those from the dealer. Oh, and you'll need the timing belt backplate cover gaskets, I don't think they are in the Toyota kit. They weren't in mine, anyway.

I'd pick up a CPS rebuild kit, too, there is a seal and bearing in there other than the O-ring that will be crusty and leaking by now. I got mine from clubmr2.com.

I would seriously look into tossing the stock harmonic balancer (pulley on the front of the crankshaft) and picking up an ATI. I'd buy a new water pump, too, it's not much money and a lot of extra peace of mind. You can do both of these at a later date if you want to.

Coolant hoses... it sucks when you blow a $6 hose, overheat the engine, and warp a perfectly good head. I'd change them all - radiator hoses, heater hoses, turbo coolant lines, throttle body coolant lines... go nuts.

There is a nice article on 7mpower.com by Will Neely about building these engines for power, have a look.

 

[Rennat]

I got my shaft bearings from napa for 7.39 for both...
along with my injector o-rings, all 3, for 1.99 a piece.

Check the hoses to see if they have been replaced before, if there still good and rubbery then theres no need to replace a hose thats still good.

Where can you get an ATI dampner anyways? i never thought about gettin one, but for the long term investment its probably better than OEM.

 

[jdub]

I do believe suprarich (Rich - SIP Racing) has the ATI's in stock...shoot him a PM.

And, it is a better damper than stock (about 5 lbs lighter) and is cheaper than a stock new one

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

I will have two stock turbos so I will use one of them for now as I do have a budget. Even though I am only figuring out what it is now I’m going to wait on the turbo. And I will consider the HTI balancer but will likely wait till later for this as well.

Oh and I want to get rid of the turbo heat shield what can I use to replace it.

And are there any other hoses that I might need to change, I’m going to price the oem parts out a Toyota this weekend so I want a list of all heating/cooling hoses so I know what the worst to expect.

I have already had a few hoses blow on me, that what you get when you but a car that sat for 2 years.

 

[Rennat]

I hope you have a lot of money if you plan on buying ALL new OEM hoses....

and its ATI Balancer...
and its way faster to talk to suprarich if you email him.
For the rods, his price is 450shipped, so i would defintaly get in touch with him.

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Sorry I was thinking ATI but somehow hit 'H'

And that is an amazing price for the rods but it will be a bit befor I start buying all this.
Have to make the money before I spend it... kidding ill just spend the banks money lol

 

[NewWestSupras]

Try getting prices for any dealer items you need from Jeff @ Champion.. I've saved money even with the duty cost.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213747
I use Thermotec's turbo blanket, it works ok and the price is right...
http://www.thermotec.com/
don't forget new oil squirters, and do your research on the right machine shop, it's one of the most important things!
all you need is a die grinder, some bits, and a bench to do a mild port & polish on the head, imho, it's time well spent...don't forget to helicoil your exhaust mani side too! gl

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Should I bother getting new Valve Spring Retainers?