The time has come....

[TRDownShift]

Hey guys, I'm starting a rebuild, I've been having bad compression issues and leaks left and right, also lifters are "rattling" at certain RPMs and I think the valve train is where I'm losing my compression.. So I just bought a port and polished 7m-GTE cylinder head with good lifters, valve springs, caps etc... What I want to know is... I've got $700 left to play with.. maybe a tiny bit more What do I buy to pull off the most solid "full rebuild" for the money?

I was thinking the "re-Ring" kit from this site would be a good place to start.. http://www.rpmmachine.com/enginerebuildkitstoyotatop.html

But I know some of you guys have been doing this since before I was born... So any input would help.

I'm also thinking this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/150755997095?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I want the engine to run how it should... So if you guys know of any rebuild kits that you would recommend or any hose kits etc..

One more thing I would love to deal with while I'm balls deep in this engine is the MOTHERFLIPER of a cold start it has... I mean I have to hold down the starter while slaping the gas like a crazy person for about 2 minutes before it'll start up and run... >.<"

Thanks again

 

[IBoughtASupra]

The cold start issue is most likely your Cold start injector. You can try removing it and cleaning it and see if that helps.

I have never used any of those rebuild kits, so I cannot offer advice there. Get a Toyota gasket kit and wait to buy other parts after you pull apart the motor to see what needs replacing.

With your budget, I assume its just a rings, bearings, gasket kit and maybe ARP fasteners kind of rebuild? ^^THIS IS A QUESTION, I'M NOT SAYING THIS IS WHAT IT SHOULD BE.

 

[mecevans]

Keep driving the car for now. Start accumulating parts one by one.

 

[TRDownShift]

Well, I dont want to make crazy power So i don't need things like 264 cams and upgraded rods and pistons, I'm only ever going to push this motor to about 300~350 wheel.. So an OEM rebuild is fine (500 wheel will come once I have a 1JZ ) I already have ARP head studs from my current engine that should still be good, what other ARP bolts and nuts should I get?

 

[IndigoMKII]

Well, I dont want to make crazy power So i don't need things like 264 cams and upgraded rods and pistons, I'm only ever going to push this motor to about 300~350 wheel.. So an OEM rebuild is fine (500 wheel will come once I have a 1JZ ) I already have ARP head studs from my current engine that should still be good, what other ARP bolts and nuts should I get?

If you're going 1jz then sad to say it, drive this engine til it quits and sell the 7mgte head for some extra cash.

If you want to try and save the 7mgte so you can have around 350 rwhp. I'd say OEM toyota head gasket with arp studs that are properly torqued, new timing belt and get the gates hose kit from driftmotion. Put all new gaskets on the manifolds and something I would do is have your stock 440 injectors sent out to be cleaned and flow tested.

The hard start is like IBoughtASupra says it sounds like a bad cold start. Is it hard to start back up after it's warm? Make sure your CSI is plugged in along with your fuel pressure up VSV (Front VSV) is hooked up to the vacuum lines correctly. I'm not sure how to clean the CSI but I'm sure it's on the site somewhere.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

You don't have to drive this engine until it quits. Keep at your rebuild. Nothing crazy, do it yourself and while driving it, save the funds. You don't want to drive it till it quits because it wont just quit, you are going to have issues before that happens.

You should get the ARP mains and rod bolts to replace the stock ones. DM has them and they are cheap.

 

[IndigoMKII]

You don't have to drive this engine until it quits. Keep at your rebuild. Nothing crazy, do it yourself and while driving it, save the funds. You don't want to drive it till it quits because it wont just quit, you are going to have issues before that happens.

You should get the ARP mains and rod bolts to replace the stock ones. DM has them and they are cheap.

Why use ARP mains and rod bolts for a 300-350 whp 7m? Just for the extra insurance?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Why use ARP mains and rod bolts for a 300-350 whp 7m? Just for the extra insurance?

Why not?

Would you rather reuse 20+ year old hardware or new ARP when I believe they cost less than new Toyota hardware.

 

[mecevans]

Sounds like something the typical cheap mk3 owner would say.

 

[te72]

I'm curious where you found lifters in a 7m... Seen plenty of them on 5m heads, and any number of pushrod engines, but...

 

[IndigoMKII]

Sounds like something the typical cheap mk3 owner would say.

Why not?

Would you rather reuse 20+ year old hardware or new ARP when I believe they cost less than new Toyota hardware.

Wasn't trying to be 'cheap' I was comparing the price for 150+ shipping for ARP main/rod bolts as opposed to 80 bucks for the OEM hardware from the dealer.

 

[TRDownShift]

So I want ARP main and rod bolts then? and a "gates" hose kit? *pulls up driftmotion* ..... WAHHH... $160 bucks for rod and main studs!?!?!?!?... Holy mother of Toyota!!!...

So then.... umm.. yeah.. *pulls up account balance* *sheds a tear* "yeah, that 3in turbo back isn't going to happen"

Yeah ok so Are thoughs really cheaper then the OEM bolts from toyota? I mean if so I'll order them, no problem.. but holy mother of toyota... lol

alright so what else?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Check the Toyota price and compare. I don't know off the top of my head.

 

[mnracer550]

find a friend with mig welder and weld up an exhaust. probably only 100 bucks in tubing and U bends and 100 bucks for a decent muffler. that quickly puts the turbo back in your budget on another note, with your budget it sounds like you almost might as well wait for your 1j build instead of dumping more in the 7m. good luck though

 

[TRDownShift]

Yeah, true, but I was talking to a friend who has done many 1J swaps and he said a good 1J swap is about 2200~2500 in PARTS... I dont have that at this point in my life lol So for now I'm just going to try and build the 7m so it doesn't break every 2 months and start saving for a 1J.. I want the 1J because I want to track the car and the 1J revs faster and higher from what I hear witch is what I need. I won't need the batshit nuts power of the 2J and the 1J revs and spools faster so thats the way I think I'm going to go wen swap time comes

 

[suprarx7nut]

I haven't seen any evidence the rod and main bolts even need to be replaced for anything near stock power. Maybe I'm ignorant though. :dunno:

I've reused stock on all mine with 20,000+ troublefree miles at elevated boost levels. I say use that $160 elsewhere. I bet you'll need it, lol.

Recipe for 7m success at stock ish power is:
-arp head studs
-toyota oem hg
-reworked head(milled flat, valve seals, maybe full valve job)
-new coolant hoses and union at back of head
-full gasket set from stone, felpro or Toyota
-new oil pump
-new bearings, acl, Toyota select fit, ndc, most reputable brands should be just fine
-a few other odds and ends I'm sure I'm missing...

Worked for me on 3 different 7Ms.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

 

[shipkiller]

I haven't seen any evidence the rod and main bolts even need to be replaced for anything near stock power. Maybe I'm ignorant though. :dunno:

I've reused stock on all mine with 20,000+ troublefree miles at elevated boost levels. I say use that $160 elsewhere. I bet you'll need it, lol.

Recipe for 7m success at stock ish power is:
-arp head studs
-toyota oem hg
-reworked head(milled flat, valve seals, maybe full valve job)
-new coolant hoses and union at back of head
-full gasket set from stone, felpro or Toyota
-new oil pump
-new bearings, acl, Toyota select fit, ndc, most reputable brands should be just fine
-a few other odds and ends I'm sure I'm missing...

Worked for me on 3 different 7Ms.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

wouldn't that hold up to 400whp since the OEM HG is good when used with arp studs with proper torque?

 

[IJ.]

NOTHING at all wrong with the OEM hardware if in good condition and installed correctly...

 

[shipkiller]

NOTHING at all wrong with the OEM hardware if in good condition and installed correctly...

that explain why my 7m is holding the ct-26 57 with bpu so well at 18 psi

 

[IJ.]

Many many years ago before most of these guys were old enough to drive Reg Reimer had the Headbolts tested and found like most Toyota parts they're very well made from good quality materials, since ARP's have become cheaper and easily available people just use them as the default fastener, I've done the same with my LS Chev based project.

I think a lot of guys are wrongly blaming the Toyota fasteners for the 7M HG issues....