The Small Questions Thread
- Thread starter RPSil13
- Start date
In my book paying over a hundred dollars for a filter seems really dumb but that's just me. I'll figure it out I guess.
Im running a T4 setup with a 4" piping to the stock airbox using a stock airfilter. After market air filters make aftermarket air filter companies money... other than that.. they don't do much.. lol.
(and just to quantify incase someone wants to argue (which I don't) this is my opinion)
Hope you still have the fan shroud. If so.. air from fan shouldn't be an issue. Could be dirty AFM or some other issue, although rumbly idle is a pretty broad description.. lol.
(and just to quantify incase someone wants to argue (which I don't) this is my opinion)
Hope you still have the fan shroud. If so.. air from fan shouldn't be an issue. Could be dirty AFM or some other issue, although rumbly idle is a pretty broad description.. lol.
Considering its a lifetime quality filter with no maintenance and a nice adapter 100$ seems nothing.
Why would I buy that when I already have a k&n filter? 
And do have a fan shroud but it still sticks out you know. It's just idle isn't perfectly smoth a bit up and down +- 200rpm. Sometimes it sounds like it's missing.
But I finally drove it today, pretty fast. Hit fuel cut at like 3.5k rpm a couple times some reason. Right now it's just stock with a open dpp, no idea if anything has been done to the turbo. But my dad drove it right after and went full throttle to 6k and said he had no troubles. Maybe just breaking in issues hope xD
Only other issue that i know if is throttle. It can't seem to cruise well, it's accelerate or nothing. If I hold a steady speed it will like drop throttle and then go, and then drop throttle and then go. But I only have codes 51 (Don't care about it not automatic) and code 34? (Abnormal boost pressure).
And do have a fan shroud but it still sticks out you know. It's just idle isn't perfectly smoth a bit up and down +- 200rpm. Sometimes it sounds like it's missing.But I finally drove it today, pretty fast. Hit fuel cut at like 3.5k rpm a couple times some reason. Right now it's just stock with a open dpp, no idea if anything has been done to the turbo. But my dad drove it right after and went full throttle to 6k and said he had no troubles. Maybe just breaking in issues hope xD
Only other issue that i know if is throttle. It can't seem to cruise well, it's accelerate or nothing. If I hold a steady speed it will like drop throttle and then go, and then drop throttle and then go. But I only have codes 51 (Don't care about it not automatic) and code 34? (Abnormal boost pressure).
jdmfreak;2001436 said:
Eh well I don't have a factory air cleaner. So unless I get one real cheap it's whatever :/ I figured out spectre part no 81403 will fit the afm.
Anyone have any idea how to make the throttle not drop on and off when you're holding a cruise? I'm going to just mess with the tps alignment and throttle cable to see if I can fix it.. And I'm just going to make a boost leak tester from plumping covers and plugs and a air valve with my compressor to test for leaks friday
too excited.
well over 4500Janch;2001590 said:at what RPM HX40 would spool? no one can answer me to this question
It shouldn't be that bad. The 35 spool down in like 3200-3500 range. 40 should be around 4k or sooner.
Shouldn't there be a way to take the displacement value and estimate the rpms needed to build boost? My buddy that build diesel race trucks knows before he orders where the turbo is gonna light off, and he's never more than 100rpm off.
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Where can i find connectors for the wiring harness? I know DM has the body plugs but I'd like to replace all the sensor plugs and possibly ignition.
atmperformance;2001753 said:
Dr tweak is a great source. I had to get many of my plugs through random online vendors. Dr tweak, eastern beaver, digikey, Newark, and go figure the toyota dealer.
Sent from my Moto X.
So I'm in the works of making my fans operate on a thermal switch. Any input at what tempature I should have the switch at? IIRC oem thermostat is 195 so maybe a 185 on 175 off thermal switch. I hate toggle switches and switched relays off the ignition I rather it work like an oem style e-fan. Thanks in advance guys!
Backlash2032;2001929 said:
Yeah after I posted I was like huh why would the fans kick on before the car is at operating temp haha. I found one that is 200 on 185 off. Might do that unless I decide to get a adjustable one.