temp/oil sensor location

Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE

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There is no oil pressure sensor on the 1JZ.
There is an oil pressure switch, and an oil level monitor switch.

For the most part the oil level sensor is a switch when it registers enough low readings to the ok monitor ecu small blue box it displays an led on the tach.

People either remove the oil pressure switch and install an oil pressure sensor for the gauges psi reading or they use all three warning and sensor devices you could change the union bolt in the oil cooler housing where the filter is ad change it to the 2JZ-GE threaded 10mm hole union bolt allowing you to keep all three sensors and screw your pressure sensor into there.

Your oil pressure switch is next to the AC compressor infront of the knock sensor.
your oil level sensor/switch is on the intake side of the oil pan.
 

JonoTurbo

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The temp gauge sender is on the passenger front of the motor, in the area where the upper radiator hose connects. The wire for it is generally yellow with a green stripe, pin 7 on IG1 if you have a supra harness.

The oil pressure sender won't work off the bat like evilempire said. When you get it swapped, wire the gauge to pin 21 on IG1, yellow with a black stripe, be careful because there are two.
 

MKonmac

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JonoTurbo;1432629 said:
The temp gauge sender is on the passenger front of the motor, in the area where the upper radiator hose connects. The wire for it is generally yellow with a green stripe, pin 7 on IG1 if you have a supra harness.

The oil pressure sender won't work off the bat like evilempire said. When you get it swapped, wire the gauge to pin 21 on IG1, yellow with a black stripe, be careful because there are two.

What one is the ig1?
i know of the m1,b1,b2,b3 ect but no ig1
do you happen to have a picture>?

Matt'!~
 

MKonmac

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MKonmac;1433377 said:
What one is the ig1?
i know of the m1,b1,b2,b3 ect but no ig1
do you happen to have a picture>?

Matt'!~

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d58/warriorrider88/ik1.jpg
is this the ig1 your are refering to? someone called it a ik1...


I do have a supra harness, so if this is from the wrong one can someone point me in the right direction with a picture of the plug and its location!
thanks
 

Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE

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You have 2 water sensors
The one with 2 wires goes to the ecu.
The one with one wire goes to the water temp gauge in the dash.

Also if you decide to keep both sensors the oem jza70 switch/idiot light & the 7m-ge prssure sender/sensor pressure gauge.
you must add a wire up to the dash from the sensor. but i would try and go through the oem connector with a spare pin as much as possible.

Another note you can not screw the 7m-ge prssure type sensor directly into the switch sensor block hole there is not enough room even if you removed the AC it hits the block ribs with the sensor its too wide its not even close. you can screw a braided brake hose the 10mm close pitch ones into the port i believe its 1mm pitch but dont quote me on that.
Another option you could keep the switch sensor in the block as a plug and use the threaded union bolt to get a psi reading.

Maybe you can use an aftermarket gauge & sensor that comes together that will fit in the small area where the JZ switch thread in at.
 

MKonmac

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Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE;1433674 said:
You have 2 water sensors
The one with 2 wires goes to the ecu.
The one with one wire goes to the water temp gauge in the dash.

Also if you decide to keep both sensors the oem jza70 switch/idiot light & the 7m-ge prssure sender/sensor pressure gauge.
you must add a wire up to the dash from the sensor. but i would try and go through the oem connector with a spare pin as much as possible.

Another note you can not screw the 7m-ge prssure type sensor directly into the switch sensor block hole there is not enough room even if you removed the AC it hits the block ribs with the sensor its too wide its not even close. you can screw a braided brake hose the 10mm close pitch ones into the port i believe its 1mm pitch but dont quote me on that.
Another option you could keep the switch sensor in the block as a plug and use the threaded union bolt to get a psi reading.

Maybe you can use an aftermarket gauge & sensor that comes together that will fit in the small area where the JZ switch thread in at.

I found the wire for my water temp...
1.it was cut and disconected.... when i connect this wire the gauge goes strait to Hot and keeps rising as much as possible.
2. another wire was added but also cut headed towards the firewall.


Where do i connect this line from the single wire on the dash?
Thanks
Matt'!~
 

MKonmac

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MKonmac;1433946 said:
I found the wire for my water temp...
1.it was cut and disconected.... when i connect this wire the gauge goes strait to Hot and keeps rising as much as possible.
2. another wire was added but also cut headed towards the firewall.


Where do i connect this line from the single wire on the dash?
Thanks
Matt'!~

Anyone? :)
 

Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE

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Tell me your plan 2 sensors or 1 which one will you use ?
Also which car/shell do you have a 7m-gte or 7mge which year.

I had to modify the overlay for the lights in the display to keep them right and to move wires around in the connector and add a couple jumpers to the trace layer on the back that was to keep the 7m cluster with the jza70 tach and keep all the singals and functionality.

So your temp singnal wire for your cluster works now right?
 

MKonmac

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Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE;1434907 said:
Tell me your plan 2 sensors or 1 which one will you use ?
Also which car/shell do you have a 7m-gte or 7mge which year.

I had to modify the overlay for the lights in the display to keep them right and to move wires around in the connector and add a couple jumpers to the trace layer on the back that was to keep the 7m cluster with the jza70 tach and keep all the singals and functionality.

So your temp singnal wire for your cluster works now right?

I have a 88 7mge (targa if it matters)

I can do it any way possible. The one wire way seems it might be the best way.

Also my tach doesnt work, i just put a 7mgte tach in(was told turbo tach would work)
 

Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE

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Turbo Tachs hit or miss they are different.

I think you should get at least the oil pressure sensor to work.
Get the sender from your 7m-ge & screw it into a braided line you could order from drift motion then screw it into where the switch goes its always better to at least get a pressure reading since you have the NA version use the factory yellow black wire in the 7M-GE with the rubber boot run it to your efi connector yellow black for your gauge since you have an NA the gauge and wire is already in the body side and connector. By adding the wire if you want to put the switch back in you could always do it I dont remember if the switch will latch on to the sensor post if it does you could use the switch wires for the psi sensor. Ill have to check or you can by seing if it holds on to the post of the snesor.
 

MKonmac

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Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE;1436650 said:
Turbo Tachs hit or miss they are different.

I think you should get at least the oil pressure sensor to work.
Get the sender from your 7m-ge & screw it into a braided line you could order from drift motion then screw it into where the switch goes its always better to at least get a pressure reading since you have the NA version use the factory yellow black wire in the 7M-GE with the rubber boot run it to your efi connector yellow black for your gauge since you have an NA the gauge and wire is already in the body side and connector. By adding the wire if you want to put the switch back in you could always do it I dont remember if the switch will latch on to the sensor post if it does you could use the switch wires for the psi sensor. Ill have to check or you can by seing if it holds on to the post of the snesor.


I understand that the 7m sender has no clearnece for screwing in but does it have the correct threads to screw into the block?

meaning that i can take the sender to the local parts store and just get a braided line using the sender as the piece to test the treads?
Thanks
 

MKonmac

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Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE;1434907 said:
Tell me your plan 2 sensors or 1 which one will you use ?
Also which car/shell do you have a 7m-gte or 7mge which year.

I had to modify the overlay for the lights in the display to keep them right and to move wires around in the connector and add a couple jumpers to the trace layer on the back that was to keep the 7m cluster with the jza70 tach and keep all the singals and functionality.

So your temp singnal wire for your cluster works now right?

No when i hook up the wire for the temp the temp gauge just keeps going up and up and up. someone mentioned that it could be a ground.
What wire do i ground. (brown) but where do i find this wire?
Thanks
 

Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE

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MKonmac;1438850 said:
I understand that the 7m sender has no clearnece for screwing in but does it have the correct threads to screw into the block?

meaning that i can take the sender to the local parts store and just get a braided line using the sender as the piece to test the treads?
Thanks
Yes its the same thread as the switch in 1jz the hose is just an extension.
You can also buy the union bolt from toyota for about ~20 and replace the one in the oil cooler and screw it into the top of the union bolt in the oil cooler directly!
The union bolt is off a 2JZ-GE there is two of the one with the 10 mm hole one without.

You might have to trim just a verry little bit off the oil cooler with a grinder so it will screw into the union bolt really good.


MKonmac;1438853 said:
No when i hook up the wire for the temp the temp gauge just keeps going up and up and up. someone mentioned that it could be a ground.
What wire do i ground. (brown) but where do i find this wire?
Thanks

The gauge sensor is a ground the water temp sensor with a single wire uses the engine ground to drive the sensor up so the hotter the engine the lower the resistance to ground the more the ground the higher the needle in the temp sensor gauge goes up.

If it goes streight to ground with no delay the wire or sensor is grounded in the 7M book it tells you what sensor resistance displays what on the gauge cluster like 2 ohms shows 280deg 300ohms shows 0 degrees so take a reading with a meter and compare it to the trsm guidline for the 7m engine because its the same specs for the jz gauges and sensors for the water temp gauge.
 

MKonmac

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Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE;1439825 said:
Yes its the same thread as the switch in 1jz the hose is just an extension.
You can also buy the union bolt from toyota for about ~20 and replace the one in the oil cooler and screw it into the top of the union bolt in the oil cooler directly!
The union bolt is off a 2JZ-GE there is two of the one with the 10 mm hole one without.

You might have to trim just a verry little bit off the oil cooler with a grinder so it will screw into the union bolt really good.




The gauge sensor is a ground the water temp sensor with a single wire uses the engine ground to drive the sensor up so the hotter the engine the lower the resistance to ground the more the ground the higher the needle in the temp sensor gauge goes up.

If it goes streight to ground with no delay the wire or sensor is grounded in the 7M book it tells you what sensor resistance displays what on the gauge cluster like 2 ohms shows 280deg 300ohms shows 0 degrees so take a reading with a meter and compare it to the trsm guidline for the 7m engine because its the same specs for the jz gauges and sensors for the water temp gauge.

Thanks my temp sensor is working now! And so is my tach!

And hopefully tommorow I can get the oil presure tommorow!

Also the wire from my m1 clip for the check engine light is cut...
where do i run this wire to make the check engine light function properly/
 

MKonmac

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Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE;1440538 said:
The check engine can be tested with a test light B+ to the service connector on the manifold.

Are you asking what pin on the body plugs ? and the pin on the ECU or what?

I got the car already wired... the ecu and everything is in engine bay and they only ran wires into the car that need to run the car.

therefore the m1 plug grey wire (ecu) has been cut... do i just run this to the ecu pinout or do I wire it in somewhere else.
the reason I ask is because i am not sure if i needed to run it to the test area where you jumper the box to get the check engine codes.

Matt'!~
 

Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE

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Ok I have an idea what they did.
The left the ECU in the engine bay so they wouldnt hack your OEM ecu harness I hope they protected it from heat and moisture BMW puts there ecus in the engine bay and it works fine.
The body connector must be the old 7mgte EFI harness cut off at about 2feet in towards the engine and spliced to the 1jz harness or spliced to the body connectors of the jza70 so it just plugs into the ECU.

OK
here is how the check engine light works the ECU will detect something off
Send a flashing code pulled to ground out of the ecu at Pin 7 Grey wire with green stripe. as an output it will then goto a splice where one wire goes into the check connector pin2 which will be labeled "W" on the top the other goes into the cluster via IG1 pin19 which then gets remapped to the M1 connector pin 9 pre 89 cars on post 89 cars it goes to pin 8 its easy to tell because the wire is the same color grey with green stripe.
From the body connector it goes to the dash.

I have a fox to hound signal tracer you could disconnect the dash connector then trace the wire with a tone generator to the open end with no problem.

I think its a FOX2 to HOUND3 cost under 100 to buy and its great for finding floating wires not hooked up to anything.
 

MKonmac

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Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE;1440712 said:
Ok I have an idea what they did.
The left the ECU in the engine bay so they wouldnt hack your OEM ecu harness I hope they protected it from heat and moisture BMW puts there ecus in the engine bay and it works fine.
The body connector must be the old 7mgte EFI harness cut off at about 2feet in towards the engine and spliced to the 1jz harness or spliced to the body connectors of the jza70 so it just plugs into the ECU.

OK
here is how the check engine light works the ECU will detect something off
Send a flashing code pulled to ground out of the ecu at Pin 7 Grey wire with green stripe. as an output it will then goto a splice where one wire goes into the check connector pin2 which will be labeled "W" on the top the other goes into the cluster via IG1 pin19 which then gets remapped to the M1 connector pin 9 pre 89 cars on post 89 cars it goes to pin 8 its easy to tell because the wire is the same color grey with green stripe.
From the body connector it goes to the dash.

I have a fox to hound signal tracer you could disconnect the dash connector then trace the wire with a tone generator to the open end with no problem.

I think its a FOX2 to HOUND3 cost under 100 to buy and its great for finding floating wires not hooked up to anything.

So basically what your saying is I can tap the grey with green coming off the ecu.
Thanks