240 was the hottest I've logged it as being, but who knows what it actually was inside.
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Steve's mildly out-of-control build
- Thread starter toyotanos
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O crap. That's pretty hot. How did it happen? I saw something about a blockage but I didn't really see any other post about it.
During Powercruise I stirred up crap from the block and it blocked a good percentage of the radiator tubes. Shut it down for almost the entire last day to keep damage from being too bad. Flushed the cooling system out and watched like a hawk for bubbles but saw none. Its been running since then without an issue until last night when the heater core leaked. So I can't say if there was a small leak that gradually got worse or if i just decided to crack/fail last night.
That's one thing we can always look forward to: when Steve's stuff goes wrong, we'll know what happened in gory detail in just a few days. :icon_bigg
Best of luck!
Best of luck!
It might be Mike, depending on how much work needs to be done to my 91 head. Probably going to have it checked out for soundness and see if its annealed, then go nuts with it- p&p, maybe some cc shaping, a really really good valve lash adjustment, and a valve job. Slight possibility of valves, but that's crazy money there... I could drop a couple stacks on the head alone. I just like the idea of the originl head, block, and other stuff being on the car. Not sad to see the original trans go, though. It makes me angry when it grinds.
Pics of progress!
Old cometic MHG:
Head between the cyls
Block, between the cyls
Happy to report no melted pistons or detonation pockmarks like I was worried about finding!
Pics of progress!
Old cometic MHG:
Head between the cyls
Block, between the cyls
Happy to report no melted pistons or detonation pockmarks like I was worried about finding!
if you're going to P&P the head, you may as well do larger valves as well. you already have cams IIRC. take advantage of the situation and get the best flow increases possible for what you're doing. 
also, if you get a junk spare head to practice on, you can do the P&P yourself and save a few hundred bucks
also, if you get a junk spare head to practice on, you can do the P&P yourself and save a few hundred bucks
Chris- I might just do that. The 91 head needs a valve job anyways so might as well make it a killer >
Andy- the thought is that the head lifted. After that I don't trust the gasket to seal well enough. Also, see the 2nd picture- notice the uneven marks where the bead was supposed to seal- the surface of the block and head are far too rough for a MHG to seal well. Failure built into the engine before it even fired up. I've just been lucky that it's lasted this long.
Andy- the thought is that the head lifted. After that I don't trust the gasket to seal well enough. Also, see the 2nd picture- notice the uneven marks where the bead was supposed to seal- the surface of the block and head are far too rough for a MHG to seal well. Failure built into the engine before it even fired up. I've just been lucky that it's lasted this long.
O crap. All the expansion from the heat made it lift? I would assume you were using ARP head studs and did a retorque.
The block was rough when you put the Head gasket down?
The block was rough when you put the Head gasket down?
Stopper will happen, just trying to figure out if I can run a 1.2 or if I have to stay with a 2.0 again. Compression ratio will go up regardless because of the shaving that will happen.
Andy- I' not sure when they got loose, but 2 of the nuts were not tight, and the whole exhaust side was not at 90ft-lbs. I have guesses, but nothing provable. Yes the studs were installed correctly, and they were re-torqued 2 times. Once after 6-7 heat cycles, and another about a year/1000 miles after the engine got built.
Going to talk with the machinist today/tonight and see if he'll help me out- might add the main studs into the mix since I'm pushing the stockers' capabilities. Maybe billet main caps, too :?
Andy- I' not sure when they got loose, but 2 of the nuts were not tight, and the whole exhaust side was not at 90ft-lbs. I have guesses, but nothing provable. Yes the studs were installed correctly, and they were re-torqued 2 times. Once after 6-7 heat cycles, and another about a year/1000 miles after the engine got built.
Going to talk with the machinist today/tonight and see if he'll help me out- might add the main studs into the mix since I'm pushing the stockers' capabilities. Maybe billet main caps, too :?
Crap man. Is it a common problem on the 7M's for the bolts to run loose on the exhaust side? Devin just had the same problem.
I checked the head studs on my motor numerous times on the stand because of my OCD with that stuff. Plus I don't plan on boosting until break-in and retorque.
What's your opinion on the retorque? Loosen the bolt just a tad to break friction and then pull back to spec? Or just go over and check they are still at their torqued spec?
I am really iffy about any fluids getting under the gasket.
I checked the head studs on my motor numerous times on the stand because of my OCD with that stuff. Plus I don't plan on boosting until break-in and retorque.
What's your opinion on the retorque? Loosen the bolt just a tad to break friction and then pull back to spec? Or just go over and check they are still at their torqued spec?
I am really iffy about any fluids getting under the gasket.
That is just crazy on how it backs out. What could cause that after being torqued multiple times.
My best guess would be it getting hot at PC, but I can't back that up at all. Going to make it a bi-yearly thing to pop the covers off and give them a checking at least.
How did you do the retorque? Back off and tighten or just tighten?
Where is Ian when you need him!
Where is Ian when you need him!
I broke the nut stiction loose one at a time, then re-torqued. I've already spoken to Ian about the matter, he was less than impressed at the surface finish on the block and head.
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