Staticpat's Redneck Rodknock fix OR How-To drop Oilpan

[annoyingrob]

I actually did this with my 1.5JZ this afternoon. You can take the pan out WITHOUT taking the subframe out. All I did was unbolt the front motor mounts, disconnect my intake piping, and use my engine hoist to pull the motor up a few inches. There's just enough clearance to take out the pan (this car is a 91, not sure about pre 89).

If you didn't have a hoist to pull the motor up, you could jack it up from below on the transmission, or crank pulley or something I'm sure.

The reason I did it this way, it took me an hour to get the pan out. It would have taken me 4 to get the motor out, and I didn't have room for it either.

 

[Quin]

FWIW still no knock over a year later

 

[BlackDynamite]

NICE!


I used wood blocks, boards for leverage, engine stands, hood/trunk prop etc. when i did my rebuild. My grandfather helped me. We almost used wood blocks as much as normal metal tools...lol...


Trust me...look and see how much wood is
Laying around/or used as stands etc....lol

 

[easternguy2005]

I did this today - great writeup !

You can't get the oil pan out of the 7mgte in a '90 without dropping the subframe part. The lip of the pan can't get past the tranny bellhousing.

DON'T use vice grips on the sway bar links - A hex wrench fits in the bolt same side as the nut. I was able to lower it by removing the 2 sway bar holder on the top rather than the link. Much easier for me.

I removed the brake calipers using the 2 bolts on the backside. This allowed me to lower it without opening any lines. Didn't even need to unclip the antilock sensor wires.

Didn't disconnect steering wheel rod or rack. Thinking I might have been able to lower it without even touching anything on steering next time.

I lowered it JUST enough to remove the pan. The frame isn't lowered much because the subframe hasn't cleared the bolts which hold it to the frame. Was able to remove the oil pump with ease. Would have been able to do the connecting rod bearings if I needed to. I know on reassembly that I will have to put the gasket stuff on the back part of the pan last.

I used the jackstands and put ramps under the frame as well because you'll be under there working bolts. Got a pressurized 4x4x6 and cut it to make 3 pieces as shown - works like a charm !

 

[V8hntr]

thank you and Patrick for the great information. I am resealing my oil pan to pass tech inspection for the track. I held the engine using the 4X6 and chain and lowered the subframe.

I did this today - great writeup !

You can't get the oil pan out of the 7mgte in a '90 without dropping the subframe part. The lip of the pan can't get past the tranny bellhousing.

DON'T use vice grips on the sway bar links - A hex wrench fits in the bolt same side as the nut. I was able to lower it by removing the 2 sway bar holder on the top rather than the link. Much easier for me.

I removed the brake calipers using the 2 bolts on the backside. This allowed me to lower it without opening any lines. Didn't even need to unclip the antilock sensor wires.

Didn't disconnect steering wheel rod or rack. Thinking I might have been able to lower it without even touching anything on steering next time.

I lowered it JUST enough to remove the pan. The frame isn't lowered much because the subframe hasn't cleared the bolts which hold it to the frame. Was able to remove the oil pump with ease. Would have been able to do the connecting rod bearings if I needed to. I know on reassembly that I will have to put the gasket stuff on the back part of the pan last.

I used the jackstands and put ramps under the frame as well because you'll be under there working bolts. Got a pressurized 4x4x6 and cut it to make 3 pieces as shown - works like a charm !