Sputtering at Idle after change of sparkplugs

billwert

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Sep 25, 2007
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Naylor
I'm still having problems with my car. I changed Plugs and wires. All NGK. Plugs are iridiums. Now i'm buying a coil pack thinking maybe something is wrong with mine. If I still have the same problem I'm assuming grounding is the problem. Where is a good place to run another ground wire from the coil pack? My car missfires randomly going down the road now instead of at idle Especially between 1500 and 2000rpms. And sometimes when I WOT it builds boost and goes nowhere. Any suggestions? Thanks Bill.
 

jdub

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Ok...so the idle problem was corrected with plugs/wires correct?

There is a ground from the coil pack plate already...it's a field ground and should not have anything to do with what you're getting now. If you want to replace it, just run a wire to an available bolt on the block or to where the battery ground bolts to the body.

Do you have any codes?
 

billwert

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Sep 25, 2007
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Naylor
I guess so. There doesn't seem to be no missfire at idle. Now it's just while driving. Haven't checked codes since I replace my TPS about 3 weeks ago and that was the only code I was throwing. Will check them later today and post up if I have time.
 

billwert

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Sep 25, 2007
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Naylor
Ok checked codes and are as follows; 41 and 34. Not sure what they are but am looking them up as we speak. Thanks Bill.
 

billwert

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Sep 25, 2007
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Just checked codes through TSRM. 34 boost leak. My accodian hose is cracked and that is the only hose I know that is cracked. Got one of those on the way. I have no trouble boosting though. I get plenty of boost just doesn't go anywhere (sometimes). Stays in overdrive and feels like i'm spooling a Semi truck turbo. Code 41 TPS?!! I just replaced ther frickin thing. WTF? So do I need to check my wiring? Like resistance of the connections maybe?
 

jdub

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New TPS or used?

Did you clear the codes after you replaced it?
(could be a left over)

That cracked accordion hose is allowing unmetered air past the AFM. Are the rest of your IC hoses in good shape w/ tight clamps? Think boost leak ;)
 

billwert

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Sep 25, 2007
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Naylor
Well it died on me one day and wouldn't start back. So I checked codes and it gave me a 51. I figure it was TPS. So I bought a brand new one and put it on and it started right up. I then Checked codes again and no codes showed up. Now when I checked them today 34 and 41 is what I got. I started my car with TPS connected and throttled up the car with the linkage and it cut out like usual in the 1500-2000rpm range. I then shut off the car and unplugged the TPS. Started the car and throttled it up again to about the same range and the cut out was much less noticeable. It was pretty much non existent. I could barely hear it. With the TPS connected you can watch the entire engine jump inside the engine bay. And yes all Intercooler pipes are tight and connected in good shape.
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
1) Cracked accordion causing code 34 huh? I'd be looking elsewhere ;)

2) A faulty VTA signal from the TPS will not cause misfire at light throttle. It won't cause a no start either. You still need to fix it but the root cause of your problem lies elsewhere. Depending on the size of the crack it may all be in the hose.
 

billwert

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Sep 25, 2007
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It's a pretty big crack right at the turbo inlet. I guess i'll wait til my other one comes in and see if it makes any difference. I'll go over all my hoses again. Oh... the coupling that goes between the 3000 pipe and the throttle body is cracked. Would this be the cause of my problem??? And what would I need to get to fix the TPS problem?? Thanks Bill.
 

jdub

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Well, there's your code 34 for sure ;)

Fix both hoses and I'm thinking a lot of your problem will resolve.

You do need to fix the code 41...most likely caused by VTA as JJ mentioned. That input to the ECU is used to increase injector volume at increased engine speed. I would check continuity of this wire to the ECU...make sure the wire is not shorting out somewhere.
 

billwert

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Sep 25, 2007
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Ok VTA is the plug going into the TPS or something else? I have a little knowledge of things but VTA is not ringing a bell. Thanks Bill.

(EDIT) Nevermind just figured it out. Thanks Bill.
 

billwert

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Sep 25, 2007
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Ok so I went out and checked the connectors in the end of the plug with a mulitmeter. The third connector which is silver in color has no continuity. I'm assuming this is the VTA. So what are my options? I'm pretty sure this is made into the wiring harness. Thanks Bill.
 

jdub

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I assume you mean continuity between the TPS connector and the ECU connector. My '89 wiring diagram shows the wire as a blue w/ red stripe all the way to the ECU.
 

billwert

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Sep 25, 2007
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Well I checked the plug that connects into the TPS itself. So I should check the one that runs to the ECU instead? My results would still be the same would they not? Thanks Bill.
 

jdub

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It's the wire in between that's of interest Bill ;)
First thing I would check is the connectors...after that, it's a matter of tracing the wire. This assumes the TPS itself is good.
 

twistedshadows

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May 1, 2007
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what he means is to check the wire by connecting 1 of the multimeter leads to the tps plug and the other to the ecu plug and check for continuity if u dont have any then there is a break in the wire also check from the tps plug to ground to see if u have a short
joe
 

billwert

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Sep 25, 2007
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Hmm... I see. The TPS should be fine since it's only 3weeks old. I won't have time to try any of this today since I have to work both my jobs. But tommorow or this weekend i'll give this a shot. Electrical stuff is not my cup of tea. Thanks Bill.
 

jdub

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Get the accordion and TB coupler fixed 1st...that alone is going to make a big improvement.