I took the coupler off yesterday and didn't have a replacement. The people at the Toyota place couldn't come up with one. So I took a piece of some type of high dollar vulcanized hose (costs like $30 a ft.) And I put that on there. Car hasn't fell on its face since. Doesn't feel like I'm spooling a truck turbo anymore. I'm still waiting on the accordian hose to come in the mail. Thanks Bill.
Sputtering at Idle after change of sparkplugs
- Thread starter billwert
- Start date
So what would you all recommend for an 87 non-turbo with a k&n air intake? I don't mind spending the money for good shit. I was planning on getting NGK's that run $7 a pop and wires for about $70 at Advanced Auto Parts. Anyone know a better place?
I ordered my wires from rockauto.com for like 40 something (don't really remember.) And I got the NGK iridiums. Some say it's wasted money and to go for the coppers b/c they are cheaper and better (or just as good or something). But I don't really know Jdub will be able to shed some light on the situation. He might even have a sticky on it somewhere. Anyhow back to my problem. I took apart the glove compartment today and will be pulling the ECU down to check the continuity between the TPS plug and ECU plug. This may be a dumb question but if I unplug both plugs I'll still get a reading correct? Thanks Bill.
Well, if you're going to check continuity you have to unplug both. However you should be checking voltage because that's what the ECU deals with. Measure between VTA and E2. VTA should be around 300 mv at closed throttle and about 3.5 volts at WOT with a smooth and linear change between the two.
That you have the code means VTA is either open or shorted. Therefore you're likely to see less than 100 mv or more than 4.8 volts. Check it first then unplug the TPS and see if it changes. If it does the TPS is bad. If it doesn't you have a short or open in the wiring. Unplug both connectors and use an ohmmeter to confirm it. If that's the case you'll have to dig into the wiring, replace the harness, or run new wires. Course, it could be an ECU problem but that's unlikely.
Myself, I always open harnesses and repair them no matter what's wrong, even if it involves new wires and closing them back up. I consider any other form of repair a hack. Btw I'm assuming you've carefully eye-balled the thing to make sure it's not cut or melted as sometimes occurs near the back of the intake manifold. You could also try jiggling it with the meter connected. There's other things you can do too, like dummying the input and see if the code goes away. That would also prove the ECU good.
Oh, and you didn't waste money on iridium. Besides, the dinosaurs would be happy to know something useful came out of their demise
Myself, I always open harnesses and repair them no matter what's wrong, even if it involves new wires and closing them back up. I consider any other form of repair a hack. Btw I'm assuming you've carefully eye-balled the thing to make sure it's not cut or melted as sometimes occurs near the back of the intake manifold. You could also try jiggling it with the meter connected. There's other things you can do too, like dummying the input and see if the code goes away. That would also prove the ECU good.
Oh, and you didn't waste money on iridium. Besides, the dinosaurs would be happy to know something useful came out of their demise
I couldn't see no melting or anything of that sort so I'm guessing all is well there. Is it possible the TPS I just bought has already went bad? Anyways I'm off to bed as I have to be at work at 4:00am. I'll let you guys know tommorow what my results are if I have time and don't fall asleep lol. Thanks again Bill.
When you said E2 were you specifying the port on the diagnositcs box or one of the terminals on the TPS plug. I put my Mulitmeter set to 200m in the V/DC range. (May not have been correct to put it there). I had two blue wires with a red stripe on them. One was on the center connector of the ECU and the other was on the one on the side closest to the pass. side. The one in the center gave no reading and the on on the pass. side gave a reading of 0.11. That is with the black lead in the TPS plug on the top connector and the Red lead in the center plug and then in the pass. plug. So I may have done it wrong (car electronics are not my cup of tea) So please flame me in a nice manner if I have made another mistake. Thanks Bill. PS forgot to mention I hooked the old TPS back up and when I started my car the RPMS jumped up and down between 1250 and 2500 RPMS. I loosned the screws on the TPS and adjusted it till the RPMs were normal. Idling between 600 and 700rpms. When you gave it throttle it would just surge up and down. I gave it WOT and it went up to like 4300rpms and back down to 1500 and then back up. So I hooked my new TPS back up and it ran just fine except with the hiccup driving down the road. Sorry for the long ass post.
Ok so I took a reading again and using the TSRM as a guide I'm assuming the two gold connectors are VTA and E2. (This is with the key in the on position.) With my mulitmeter set at 20 in the Vdc range I got a reading of 1.13 on the gold connectors. The other connectors which are silver the reading was 6.41. I then switched my mulitmeter to 20k in the Ohms range and got a reading of 8.78 off the gold connectors. The silver ones I couldn't pull a reading off of. I changed it to the highest and lowest possible range in the Ohms range and couldn't get a reading. So I hope this will give the information needed. Thanks Bill.
Ok so I jumpered my TPS plug in E2 and VTA and read my codes and came out with this. 22,24,34,41,51. Then I plugged the TPS back in and had all but the code 51. So is the 22 and 24 coming from the fact that I had my TPS unplugged? And what about the code 51 going away after replugging in the TPS? Thanks Bill.
Edit: Pulled EFI fuse and all codes went away. Started car and shut it off and checked codes again and still nothing. Going to drive it now to see if anything reappears.
Edit: Pulled EFI fuse and all codes went away. Started car and shut it off and checked codes again and still nothing. Going to drive it now to see if anything reappears.
Ok so I lost the bottom screw to the TPS. I went to Home Depot and bought some hex head bolts to replace them. Got it tightened and restarted the car. The cut out is now not as noticeable but still there. Checked codes again and there are none. So is my TPS out of adjustment?? Thanks Bill.
Checked codes again tonight. And could not pull any. Still stumbling while driving and now sometimes it will idle rough and die. Gonna try a new TPS again on Friday. If that doesn't work guess I'm gonna buy an OEM one from toyota and if that don't fix it I'm not sure what i'm gonna do. Thanks Bill.
I fixed my boost leaks and that didn't change anything. I got to talking with one of my buddies who works at O'Reily's where I got my New TPS from. He said come by and swap it out with another new one b/c he's seen bad ones come through before. So I stopped in swapped out the TPS's and now problem solved. So I guess the other TPS was bad. Anyhow thanks for putting up with me and my numerous questions. Thanks Bill.