SP Quick Spool Valve dyno results

[IJ.]

THere are other factors like the dyno conditions (temperature and humidity) and what gear you dynoed. A 3rd gear dyno run will almost always show a laggier graph. I do understand the .84 A/R will definately increase the lag, along with the 4mm bigger exducer wheel on the compressor side. But the 35R has a nice small aerodynamic turbine wheel which is what gives it the great spool.
Most likely it is the particular dyno and dyno conditions which make the graph look laggy. Either way, it shows the spool valve helping out a lot.

I ran a 1.06ar housing on my 35r, it hit like a rocket booster around 3000 making the car just about undrivable on street tires.

This is very interesting indeed

Even though I have a MoTEC M800 if I do go with one of these I'd actualyl prefer to find a mechanical way to control the quick spool valve if possible, it'd be more elegant, though maybe I need to wrap my head around how on earth you control it electronically

Or Picking IJs brain on it lol

Dude you have a MoTeC WTF would you not use it???

Seriously you can make the valve behave exactly how you want, I intend to spend a bit of dyno time playing around with the valve to get a feel for what it does and can do then I'll road tune it to suit the real world, the idea is to have the broadest possible power delivery.

67mm Turbo with a 1.52ar, I'm hoping it will spool much like normal but NOT choke off the 6.0L on the top end once the valve is open.

 

[tekdeus]

I talked to Larry at SP and he says he has been successful getting a smooth transition on cars with the valve opening suddenly at the right PSI using a standalone. I previously tried using a generic brand hobbs switch and MAC solenoid and had trouble setting it accurately, and could not get a smooth transition. I'm going to try the Hobbs brand pressure switch to hopefully get it opening at exactly 12-14 psi or so, since I already have the solenoid mounted and ready to go from the first try. I'm eager to get it working right. The increase in overall response and performance feels very significant when the valve stays shut until 13psi. Even at 2500-3000rpm there shows a fair amount more torque on the dyno graph.

 

[aljordan]

I have to wonder where you would see boost on a 4088R using this?

My stock cam 7m with an AEM comes online at about 4300 or so with a .96 hot side.

 

[honestabe]

Nice numbers Brad. Out of curiosity, how much of a PITA was it to install? Pics of it installed, including the Hobbs switch? I'm very curious to see this, especially since I hate lag.

 

[GrimJack]

I seem to recall Brad cursing wildly after installing it... and he'd had a week or two to calm down. Something about it would be faster to pull the engine, put it all together outside the car, then drop the engine back in.

 

[tekdeus]

^^^ lol! It was the turbo that was the biggest PITA because the bolts and fittings on it were nearly impossible to access. On a regular turbo kit the valve would be pretty easy to install if you were building the downpipe and IC pipes for the first time.

I ordered a new hobbs switch today. Hopefully I can get the valve transition nailed next week.

 

[IJ.]

Ya know you could probably run it with something like an AVCR and that would give you 100% control.

 

[honestabe]

Pics of it installed Brad?

 

[HKS_TRD]

Ya know you could probably run it with something like an AVCR and that would give you 100% control.

I was going to suggest this but wasnt sure if it would work

Ian, with a motor the size of your new one, the T04Z is not that big relatively, do you think there is any danger of compressor surge?

 

[IJ.]

I was going to suggest this but wasnt sure if it would work

Ian, with a motor the size of your new one, the T04Z is not that big relatively, do you think there is any danger of compressor surge?

Seriously BIG turbine housing Dan it "should" be fine!

 

[tekdeus]

Ya know you could probably run it with something like an AVCR and that would give you 100% control.

How would you set it up?

Pics of it installed Brad?

There are some pics of the setup outside of the car here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...spool-valve.&p=1307047&viewfull=1#post1307047

 

[becauseican]

How about just running a 9-10 psi actuator, it should be fully open by 12 psi or so.

 

[IJ.]

How would you set it up?



There are some pics of the setup outside of the car here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...spool-valve.&p=1307047&viewfull=1#post1307047

Well most EBC's are just a simple PID controller that can send a PWM signal to a solenoid and have closed loop feedback, you just need to "play" around to find a response curve that works for the QS actuator.

Pretty much the same as how I'll tune mine with the MoTeC Brad, only difference is I won't have the closed loop, so to make life easier with an AVCR I'd just set it all up as Duty cycle.

 

[tekdeus]

How about just running a 9-10 psi actuator, it should be fully open by 12 psi or so.

I was hoping for that, but SP says that the higher the spring tension in the actuator is, the more pressure is needed to make it move the full throw to open the valve fully. So a 10psi actuator would be open potentially much later than 15psi. The current 5psi actuator needs 10-11 psi to be fully open.

 

[tekdeus]

Ok, I bought a Hobbs brand pressure switch to control my SP valve and it's working much better now. Spool is crazy fast, even in 2nd gear it hits 15psi around 3500 and spins the wheels. 3rd and 4th hit 15psi by 3300 rpm. I can tell it would be better controlled with a standalone and possibly via a PWM transition between certain boost and rpm ranges, but overall the performance increase just using the hobbs switch is pretty awesome. It feels like a different car, much more fun to drive on the street! 2nd gear transition is reasonably smooth. Flooring it from 2500rpm In 3rd and 4th it scoots up really fast to 15psi by 3300rpm, then the valve opens and it pauses at 15psi for a moment, then carries on to 20psi. I'm not sure if this is because the boost controller is trying to modulate the boost or if perhaps the valve is opening a little too early or too late, or too suddenly; or maybe once the valve opens at 3300rpm, the turbo can't build more boost than 15psi until it gets a little higher in the rpm range... A little more time on a dyno would help to get it dialed in better, but this only happens when I floor it very early, like 2500rpm, so it's not a big deal right now.

I did notice a bit of lag in the high rpm's getting back on the throttle between shifts as the valve closed, but I managed to solve that with Larry's suggestion of putting a restrictor on the outlet of the solenoid. I had a couple of AEM methanol nozzles kicking around and because they are NPT, they screw right into the MAC solenoid! I did some testing, and found that the middle sized AEM nozzle keeps the valve open for 0.5 seconds, and the smallest one keeps it open for 2-3 seconds. On my setup, the mid sized nozzle worked well, possibly because I plumbed my boost source pre-throttle, so it still gets some boost during blow-off in between shifts, keeping it open around 1 second or so. I can tell it is keeping the valve open between high rpm shifts, based on the response getting back on the throttle in the next gear.

With a standalone, I assume it would be easy and ideal to have the solenoid stay open starting around 4000rpm, since by that point the turbo is in its natural instant-boost range anyways.