Some battery questions

[CyFi6]

Well to start off my Supra is my DD and must be dependable. I have been stranded 3 times in the last couple months due to not starting, which is very frustrating. The first time was due to a poor battery connection/terminal which I have already repaired. Second time, the battery died after mistakenly leaving the fog lights on as I spent about 7 minutes airing up my tires, and this morning it was dead after sitting without activity for 5 days.

The car currently has an Autozone gold battery in it, and there are signs of leakage on the top of the battery, it is only about 2 years old. I took it over to AZ and they tested the battery as bad, but for some reason there is no record of me buying the battery under my name, so I am SOL in this case as far as warranty....

My question now is which battery to choose considering I will be paying out of pocket for a replacement. I have done some reading and am not sure of which type of battery to go with. The Optima/AGM batteries seem appealing because there is no chance of them leaking, but I am concerned about their fussiness in regards to charging, overcharging, and heat (I live in AZ). I need a battery that has a good warranty program, will be dependable, wont leak out all over the place and destroy my car, and is a direct fit. I am not sure if there are any Optimas that are direct fit (I know the Supra has an odd configuration with the posts) with the proper height etc. Should I just go for another Autozone battery (and make damn sure I keep a copy of the receipt on file) or should I spring for something more?

Also, are there any tips for corrosion prevention? I just replaced my positive terminal with a new brass terminal not more than a month ago, and there are already signs of corrosion on it. I didn't use any spray or those little felt pads. I would prefer not to put grease all over it as it gets a bit messy.

EDIT- Does anyone have any experience with Duralast Autozone platinum AGM batteries? Considering it also carries a 3 year replacement warranty, it might be worth the little extra over the standard batt.

Thanks for any help.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Well to start off my Supra is my DD and must be dependable. I have been stranded 3 times in the last couple months due to not starting, which is very frustrating. The first time was due to a poor battery connection/terminal which I have already repaired. Second time, the battery died after mistakenly leaving the fog lights on as I spent about 7 minutes airing up my tires, and this morning it was dead after sitting without activity for 5 days.

The car currently has an Autozone gold battery in it, and there are signs of leakage on the top of the battery, it is only about 2 years old. I took it over to AZ and they tested the battery as bad, but for some reason there is no record of me buying the battery under my name, so I am SOL in this case as far as warranty....

My question now is which battery to choose considering I will be paying out of pocket for a replacement. I have done some reading and am not sure of which type of battery to go with. The Optima/AGM batteries seem appealing because there is no chance of them leaking, but I am concerned about their fussiness in regards to charging, overcharging, and heat (I live in AZ). I need a battery that has a good warranty program, will be dependable, wont leak out all over the place and destroy my car, and is a direct fit. I am not sure if there are any Optimas that are direct fit (I know the Supra has an odd configuration with the posts) with the proper height etc. Should I just go for another Autozone battery (and make damn sure I keep a copy of the receipt on file) or should I spring for something more?

Also, are there any tips for corrosion prevention? I just replaced my positive terminal with a new brass terminal not more than a month ago, and there are already signs of corrosion on it. I didn't use any spray or those little felt pads. I would prefer not to put grease all over it as it gets a bit messy.

EDIT- Does anyone have any experience with Duralast Autozone platinum AGM batteries? Considering it also carries a 3 year replacement warranty, it might be worth the little extra over the standard batt.

Thanks for any help.

Die hard platinum here. Zero problems in 1 year, the warranty is great. 4 year free replacement and 100 month prorated. They should have the supra size and config, but I redid mine to use a beefier battery. The supra is already a pig, so who cares about another 10-15 lbs of battery, lol.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

 

[WI88Supra]

Before you go buy a new battery I would suggest you test your alternator.

I had batteries going bad on me for almost two years. If I drove everyday it was fine but if it sat for a little while it wouldn't have the juice to start. A first I thought I had a parasitic draw but in reality I had an alternator that wasnt charging the battery enough to handle the normal type of draw that is expected in a car. I put on an extra alternator I had laying around and everything was perfect after that. It even cleared up an uneven idle I had.

Any dealership will test your alternator for you for free without even taking it out of the car. If it's pushing 14 volts then you're good and just go get a battery from Walmart. For the most part a battery is a battery, but Walmarts batteries come with a two year warranty and they have honored it for me every time without giving me shit. Walmart employees are generally not interested in their jobs and defeated in life so they dont really put up much of an argument.

 

[ms07s]

The supra uses 24F and 27F and as far as my company goes we don't have any AGM batteries for that, yet. However, AGM seems to have issues with most peoples short spurt driving. Personaly I run a 24F-84N. It has almost twice the OEM cca spec, has an 84 month free replacement warranty, is direct fit, and cost half the price of an AGM. Personaly I would only run an AGM if I was putting it in the hatch, or I could get one cheap.

As far as your corrosion issue goes if there is any acid leakage or corrosion around the post (common) or any inside the cable or terminal it will continue. You could use anti-corrosion greese. It just needs a light coat.

 

[CyFi6]

Ok cool thanks for the tips. Good call on the alternator I will check the charging voltage, check for any AC voltage, and check it for parasitic drain. Not sure how likely it is but considering the case is wet/dirty from the acid I may also have a surface discharge that wouldn't be helping anything.

I don't have a Sears locally, so Die Hard is out (at least I think that's the only place to buy them?) all I have got is Autozone and Checker really, considering I need to pick up a battery tonight after work (test in the morning, don't want to risk not being able to fire her up tomorrow). I guess the corrosion issue then is the battery acid that has been leaking on top of the case and around the terminals, I suppose after I get a new battery it shouldn't be much of an issue, I will make sure to clean the old terminals well. If the AGM has an issue with short trips I will likely stay away from it, as all my driving consists of trips<10 miles and multiple times a day, the only appealing aspect was that it would not leak.
Any others have much experience with AGM type batteries?

 

[sharpsupra]

Walmart employees are generally not interested in their jobs and defeated in life:yelrotflm i think i pissed myself

 

[sharpsupra]

ive had the AGM type in my motorcycles b4. not shure if they last any longer...but they are marketed as such. most typical batteries are made by the same company. the only brand battery ive had issues with in the past was interstate. and the lower priced sears batteries are junk IMO. battery should last 3-4 yrs inna harsh climate. ive had them last as long as 5 ..but change em around 4 just to be safe. just my personal exp lol

 

[jetjock]

Lots to know: http://www.batteryfaq.org/

1) Bad battery connection is poor maintenance. Course, you knew that.

2) Install a PriorityStart module. Over the years they've saved my butt on several occasions. Ebay is a good place to get 'em used if you're unwilling to buy new.

3) As suggested check the charging system including the wiring. Work at getting the drops as low as possible in every part of the circuit including ground.

4) I'll forgo recommending a battery other than to say there are only a few manufactures in the country so most any battery you buy will come from one of them regardless of brand. Due to the Priority Start needing space mine were always smaller than stock. None ever let me down.

 

[Avicii]

i was debating on which battery to buy also lol was not really sure on the brand,cca

 

[destrux]

The OEM Panasonic battery from an older body style scion XB (same as most newer corollas) fits perfectly, weighs 10 pounds less than a stock sized battery, and is dead nuts reliable for at least 6 or 7 years. This isn't the same as buying a battery from the dealer, cause those are regular aftermarket batteries. You need to actually buy it out of a wrecked car or from a salvage yard as far as I know.

The battery looks cool, it's got clear sides with a gloss black top, and its serviceable (it has screw caps to add acid/water). I only have a top down shot of mine before I put the hold down on it...

 

[slowmedown]

i really like costco automotive batteries. i cant remember the brand they use but mine have given me zero problems and you cant beat the price

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

For my car, whenever I had starting issues, the problem was the starter itself, not the battery. The contact solenoid wears down over time, resulting in the starter motor not getting enough voltage, or none at all eventually. Replacing that was a big help.

The other problem that people overlook all the time is the ground cable. I've seen these have very poor contact, and cause issues on other cars. (I have an overkill ground cable for mine, as a part my old stereo setup, so not a problem here.)

 

[te72]

The OEM Panasonic battery from an older body style scion XB (same as most newer corollas) fits perfectly, weighs 10 pounds less than a stock sized battery, and is dead nuts reliable for at least 6 or 7 years. This isn't the same as buying a battery from the dealer, cause those are regular aftermarket batteries. You need to actually buy it out of a wrecked car or from a salvage yard as far as I know.

The battery looks cool, it's got clear sides with a gloss black top, and its serviceable (it has screw caps to add acid/water). I only have a top down shot of mine before I put the hold down on it...

Something about OEM batteries just amazes me... my girlfriend's Mazda3 still has the first battery that came in it. This thing is at least 7 years old, over 84k on it... it's a beast. That said, I'm expecting it to be needing replacement any time now.

Cy, I always had problems with alternators dying when I lived in AZ, much more so than batteries. I can't say much on Supras specifically with the weather down there, but I do know that the Optima I've had in my car for about 2 years now has been very reliable. I daily mine as well, rain, sun, shine, polar bears, whatever... and this battery has my confidence. Starts without struggle all the way down to -30 (lower even?) ambient temperatures, despite the engine being filled with 15w40 Rotella back when the battery that came with the car gave out on me.

Thanks for posting this thread by the way, I could have sworn I needed to re-do my battery ground, or at least one of the things connecting to it... can't say I remember doing that, so I'll be checking tonight thanks to this thread.

 

[WI88Supra]

THat Priority Start Promax that Jet Jock was talking about is pretty legit. I'm going to pick one up before the weather starts turning really nasty.

 

[suprasick]

Something about OEM batteries just amazes me... my girlfriend's Mazda3 still has the first battery that came in it. This thing is at least 7 years old, over 84k on it... it's a beast. That said, I'm expecting it to be needing replacement any time now

The oem battery in my 03 Durango with 120k is still goin strong aswell! I think the temperature regulated charging plays a HUGE role in battery life... oh and maybe the auto lights off helps too...

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[IJ.]

Had an awesome run with my Yellow Top Optima in the Mk3, never failed to start and was discharged multiple times, it's been retired to the Tractor which can sit for months but starts first crank!

WIll buy another for the current project car!

 

[ms07s]

Yes almost all automotive batteries, including OEM, are produced by only three companies. Another dirty secret is most higher end higher power batteries and lower end batteries are actualy the same and all your really purchasing is the warranty.

When you finaly decide to purchase any battery check the back and side for a date code sticker or melted in date. That way you can get the freshest battery possible as some retailers have them on the shelves for years, and thats a why OEM batteries last as long as they do, they are as old as the car not over a year old already. If its manufactured by EXIDE there will be another code as well that tells the batteries actual CCA. It will read something like "24f700NOW", "24f600xow", or 24f525X1W" = Group type/CCA/manufacturer warantee. The sticker means nothing as some show 650CCA on the 700 and so on.

 

[CyFi6]

Thanks for all the good info everyone. I ended up going to another Autozone and he was able to find my record after searching a while, turns out they started entering my phone number including the area code after the default local area code that was already in the computer...:nono:

So anyway, I was able to get a free replacement. Still haven't had time to check my alternator, but it will be done soon. I like the idea of the Priority Start device, but I am not sure I really want the extra connections and clutter/failure points around the battery. I am considering buying a small jumper pack to keep in the car at all times. Though it won't prevent the battery from draining/getting damaged, it will still be able to save my butt and make it very easy for me to help others out on the road as well should I come across anyone with a dead battery.

EDI- BTW the car cranks faster than I ever remember it cranking before...

 

[aloshan]

as long as its a reputable brand that has enough CCA and reserve capacity with a warranty, you should be fine.

I also asked this question myself a few months back without really using the search function.

You'll get the usual optima and odyssey fans, but anything with a warranty and above 550cca should be fine.

I ended up going with a Century 4WD battery that just ended up fitting , 760cca and more then enough reserve capacity.

You should really find out whats causing your drain and fix that problem first. A car sitting for 5 days shouldn't draw enough current to make starting the car impossible.(unless the battery is really really screwed)

You might be drawing more current then you think , do a parasitic drain test and find out how many amps you are pulling.

Also when you are going to buy your new battery , take your old battery along for them to test.

You may also want to test your alternator if its the stock one.

 

[te72]

I am considering buying a small jumper pack to keep in the car at all times. Though it won't prevent the battery from draining/getting damaged, it will still be able to save my butt and make it very easy for me to help others out on the road as well should I come across anyone with a dead battery.

EDI- BTW the car cranks faster than I ever remember it cranking before...

I had purchased one of those jumper packs from Checker a while back to keep in the Celica and Mk2, just in case. It did alright the once or twice I needed it, but I now mostly just use it to charge my portable work/flashlight since I let my brother borrow it, and he lost the charger for that, now all I have the 12v charger. The batttery jumper pack itself won't hold enough of a charge to make it worth keeping in the car anymore, so it's a good paperweight/occasional air compressor.

Funny what a new, healthy battery does for a car, huh?