Severe vibration from rear of car

[mkIIIman089]

Yep... its going to have to wait until tomorrow, as I know for a fact I have no clean buckets so after work I'll have to go to Advance auto and pick up a clean pan and a funnel. Both of which I have needed for a while anyway.

If they will do it, should I get the measurement to make the front of the uni joint even with the edge of that flange/guard? I know that the whole uni doesn't fit inside of it, well from the Al part forward at least.

 

[IJ.]

Measure from the Seal to the Diff flange Colin!

At most the new shaft will be that less 3/4" but on our cars they can pull that down to 1/2" and this way you get more spline engagement and less chance of the Yoke rocking on the splines and vibrating!

 

[mkIIIman089]

Yoke, thats what its called! LOL. I would have felt kind of stupid not knowing the name of it calling them and telling them they messed up, lol.

 

[jawsgear]

Measure from the Seal to the Diff flange Colin!

At most the new shaft will be that less 3/4" but on our cars they can pull that down to 1/2" and this way you get more spline engagement and less chance of the Yoke rocking on the splines and vibrating!

Actually for a correct measurment you want to measure from the tail shaft of the tranny to the face of the differential flange. Measuring from the seal does not give the appropriate play on the slip yoke.

 

[IJ.]

Jaws: That's what the -.750" does......

 

[mkIIIman089]

Is there such a thing as too much enguagement on the output shaft?

I still wan't able to switch it over, stupid bank closing at 12:00...

 

[IJ.]

Colin: If the shaft is too long the yoke will bottom out on the output shaft.

As I said if you measure from the seal to the flange any shaft shop will be able to build a shaft with enough free length.

With a live rear axle you'd need 3/4" minimum but this can be less for our IRS as the Diff doesn't move.

 

[Allan_MA70]

Colin: If the shaft is too long the yoke will bottom out on the output shaft.

As I said if you measure from the seal to the flange any shaft shop will be able to build a shaft with enough free length.

With a live rear axle you'd need 3/4" minimum but this can be less for our IRS as the Diff doesn't move.

unless your subframe lets go

 

[mkIIIman089]

Okay, I'll measure from the end of the output shaft and the seal just to cover all my bases.

One thing though, to get it to within even 3/4in from the seal the "dust deflector" is either going to have to be cut or removed. Has anyone done this or know if it has any negative impact?

 

[IJ.]

Colin: See the larger diameter on the Yoke?

There is meant to be a tin cover there that fits inside the tin on the trans that is where the 3/4 gap will be.

 

[mkIIIman089]

I didn't know that this DS had a spot for the other side of that cover, I suppose that makes sence though... something I neglected to install? :icon_redf

 

[IJ.]

LOL yep it would have kept some of the rain off the Yoke!
(which will need to either be replaced or polished smooth as it will tear the seal to shreds and leak)

 

[mkIIIman089]

Well, if they send/make me a proper length driveshaft (which they better!) I won't need to worry about this one anyway, lol.

 

[mkIIIman089]

Alright, welp, I lost one of the two bolts for the center bearing (which has play anyway) so I need to try and find some washers that will be strong enough to support something like this. I also need to get some new DS> diff bolts since the ones I'm using now will be too long for the thinner flange on the stocker, thats not a problem though.

Lets see how this works out!

Edit: this is what I came up with, it is a choice of being a hair bigger or a hair smaller and since the stock bolt looked "too small" to me anyway for the size of the opening in the center bearing bracket, I think I'll go with hair bigger. It was a M10x1.25 40 bolt, and I feel most comfortable using 3 stepped washers for strength.

I do have one questing though, since the new bolt I have has a 3-4mm bigger head on it, do I need to lessen the torque amount since there will be more force applied to the threads? I might not be thinking correctly on that, so feel free to mock me but I figure better safe then sorry, right?

 

[IJ.]

Colin: Nope it's based on the thread size.

Stock there are 2 thick washers one each side that go between the Centre Bearing carrier and the body.

They'd be 4mm thick.

 

[mkIIIman089]

Yea, I have those two giant ones that go between the body and the bearing still, I just had to replace the bolt and its corresponding washers.

If you say the bolt head doesn't matter then I'll take your word for it. I don't really like not understanding why but it seems your advise is normally sound.

 

[IJ.]

Colin: Bolt torque is based on the Bolt material's tensile strength, thread diameter x pitch of the threads (number of TPI "threads per inch") the Head size has nothing to do with it

 

[mkIIIman089]

So, the DSS is out and I figured I would lay it side by side to the stocker and sure enough...

Of course I have some really high res ones if they request them as well, if you look really close you can see where the seal sits on both of them and how much less enguagement the DSS one has.

From end of output shaft to diff face is 46 3/4 in, and from seal to diff face is 47 1/4 in.

 

[jdub]

I've heard that DSS makes them short...well, here's the proof. Sure am glad I got mine from Jaws :x:

 

[mkIIIman089]

I didn't even know the jaws existed when I bought this one, lol.