Rod knock? BHG? WTF is going on??? Need help, plz.

[airhead04]

Ok, I changed my plugs this past friday. Ngk iridiums, with ngk wires. Ive always had this little...sputter? at idle. It does it bad sometimes but most the time it does it then goes then comes back. Anyways, I changed the wires and plugs for the ngks and started the car up...And what do you know??? KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK. Some oil had fell through the spark plug hole when I changed them, and after the car burned the oil that fell in, the knock went away. And it hasnt happened anymore. And the knock lasted literally 3 seconds top.

Anyways, the sputter started back up again (only at idle) and yes the tacho drops to like 400 to 500 rpms then levels when it sputters. And thats just my first problem.

Now today I got curious about that knock I heard when I changed the plugs, do I did the screw driver to the ear method everyone talks about. My valves click (pretty damn loud) so I got under the car and checked that. And I heard something sounding like a knock but it didnt sound close at all.

Now I just got home and my rad light came on when I made the turn into my house. And I replaced the radiator a month ago. So I dont think it should be coming on but I live in florida so maybe some of the coolant evaporated???

So my questions are:
What could cause that knock I heard for the few seconds I did?
What could be the reason for the sputter?
And what could be the reason for my coolant going low?

I really need some help, Im 17 and still learning so I dont know to much yet. But hopefully one day Ill be extremely smart like some of the guys on here.:icon_razz

 

[airhead04]

Any advice???

 

[roadboy]

check your rad fluid for any contamination and if its full (if its full maybe the sensor is stuck at the bottom)

 

[airhead04]

Well the overflow tank is a little dirty, but could that cause these problems?
Today I was driving and the overflow tank was empty (rad light came on)!!! I added water, and it was gone too!! But the rad light went off as I drove the car because the pressure built and pushed some fluid into the tank. Possible air bubble in the system?

 

[MKIIISupraGuy]

I had the sputtering idle recently and changed my plugs and wires like you did. I also cleaned my air filter and reset my ecu. FYI my air filter was dirty big time. Put everything back together and I have steady idle now at 900 rpm. If you are going to check that sensor on the bottom of the coolant reservoir...don't be dumb like me and unbolt the bracket lol, just unplug the little sensor harness, take the cap off with the attached tube and set to the side, and then pull upwards on the reservoir. It might be a little stiff, but just work with it and it will come right off because the reservoir attaches to the bracket via a slide on groove type setup. Once you get it off you will see what I'm talking about lol.

 

[johnathan1]

To remove the coolant reservoir, you just pull up on it...(pretty hard) and it will pop out.

 

[airhead04]

I cleaned the filter, AND even the afm, and for the most part it idles damn good, but when it sputters you can tell. And I cant figure out whats causing it to do this. Its getting quite annoying. lol

 

[roadboy]

if the rad overflow was empty theres a problem..

 

[JDMMA70]

I cleaned the filter, AND even the afm, and for the most part it idles damn good, but when it sputters you can tell. And I cant figure out whats causing it to do this. Its getting quite annoying. lol

Did you clean the electronic piece? If so this could be part of your problem.

 

[airhead04]

It was dirty, so I cleaned the overflow tank, took it out the car and everything. I added water before I took off for work, and it ran great the whole way there. I start my car up after work and the rad light came on. I checked and the damn overflow tank was bone dry. SOO, I had to get home so I drove to the first gas station I saw and checked the overflow again.....and magically the coolant had come back in the tank???!!!

I just dont get it.

 

[airhead04]

Did you clean the electronic piece? If so this could be part of your problem.

Yes, I didnt use anything on it. Just wiped it off with a microfiber cloth. That could have messed it up?

 

[FullNelson]

Checked your codes? Just cause your CEL light isnt on doesnt mean you dont necessarily have any.

Checked all your vacuum lines?
What about your ISC valve?

Any other weird symptoms?

 

[airhead04]

Checked your codes? Just cause your CEL light isnt on doesnt mean you dont necessarily have any.

Checked all your vacuum lines?
What about your ISC valve?

Any other weird symptoms?

Ill check the codes tomorrow. Its raining.

I replaced ALL the vaccum lines.
And I havent checked the isc. Will do so tomorrow.

The only other weird thing that occured in the past week, is my powersteering fluid kinda mists out of its res. I think its just to much fluid in there though.

 

[johnathan1]

If you just wiped off the AFM and didn't use any kind of cleaner on it, then it's fine.

As far as your coolant problem...well if you don't have any coolant leaks, then you know what the problem is. I would do a cooling system pressure test at 21psi to check for leaks. Make sure you test your radiator cap as well. They can sometimes get weak or the seal goes bad, and it relieves pressure much too soon. If it comes up negative, start ordering parts.

 

[FullNelson]

While your out there do a pressure test on the cooling system.
Is it hard to start?

Could also take a piece of old vacuum hose and use it as a stethescope to any areas you suspect might be a vacuum leak.

 

[airhead04]

It starts without a problem.

I did just remember something, the other day I would start it, and it would turn right off. Did it 4 times, until I gave it a little gas, then never did it again.

 

[Victor Charlie]

It starts without a problem.

I did just remember something, the other day I would start it, and it would turn right off. Did it 4 times, until I gave it a little gas, then never did it again.

Sounds like BHG.

 

[Kevin]

Sounds like BHG.

lol dont jump to conclusions. like that.

so your car isnt over heating? are you losong coolant? or is the light just coming on. have you checked your timing?
get back to us when you pull the codes.

 

[airhead04]

The coolant "disappears" then magically reappears. My car doesnt overheat. Shoot it hardly gets to the half way point on the temp gauge.

My oil looks fine, and there is no milky white stuff under my oil cap either. I checked that just incase for bhg.

Codes are coming.

 

[fixitman04]

most likely a bad rad cap, you said you replaced the radiator, id guess it came without a cap so you reused the old one? or it came with a aftermarket cap(most likely junk new). id start there.

if it has a good stant or toyota cap, id start looking at the small coolant hoses(turbo cooling, throttle body , and the thermostat bypass hose) as most of these are in high heat areas that a pinhole wont actually leak liquid, it will steam so you smell coolant but cant find the leak, then as it cools it will draw air into the system causing the coolant res to go dry.

my car did this all summer, i finally found that the bypass hose, and the turbo cooling hoses were rock hard and leaking steam/air. no more dissapearing coolant.

the stethascope idea is a good way to find such a leak, watching the car cool completely also is a good idea(although time consuming) as some leaks only leak at a certain temp due to differing expansion rates of alloy/steel. i have seen waterpumps do this in the beginning stages of failure