Rack and Pinion Install

SupraTrbo89

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Sep 21, 2006
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West Chester, PA
The rack is out however I ran into a slight problem. Pics below. I did make match marks so i know where the intermediate shaft reconnects once i get it separated from the rack......please confirm the one pick is where i should pry to separate it.20160503_215608.jpg20160503_215617.jpg
 

BigKO

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Nov 5, 2008
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I had the same problem you did with the pumps banjo bolt. It took a small breaker bar for me as well. I think it's a symptom of overtightening, but I couldn't identify a reason either.

As for the intermediate shafts, I didn't remove mine as the reman'd rack came with new intermediate shafts, so I used the supplied ones.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Sep 21, 2006
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West Chester, PA
I finally separated the intermediate shaft from the rack after a lot of prying and hammering. I have my driftmotion high pressure line and my new tie rod ends (with the proper spacing) installed on the new rack. Now to reinstall everything.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Sep 21, 2006
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West Chester, PA
I ordered new washers for the power steering return line from the dealer. I haven't picked them up yet however the guy from the dealer told me they are not copper. Does anyone know about the switch from copper to another metal. Should I not use them and just purchase the 16mm copper crush washers from Driftmotion? I would buy them at a local parts store however it was noted earlier in this thread by someone they are hard to come by.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Sep 21, 2006
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West Chester, PA
Regarding the nuts for the outer tie rods.....I have to back the nuts off slightly to get the cotter pins in so the bolt really isn't tight. That doesn't give me the warm fuzzies b/c if the cotter pin ever wore out the nut could come off. Do people generally use lock tight here?
 

SupraTrbo89

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Sep 21, 2006
228
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West Chester, PA
SupraTrbo89;2074748 said:
I ordered new washers for the power steering return line from the dealer. I haven't picked them up yet however the guy from the dealer told me they are not copper. Does anyone know about the switch from copper to another metal. Should I not use them and just purchase the 16mm copper crush washers from Driftmotion? I would buy them at a local parts store however it was noted earlier in this thread by someone they are hard to come by.

The dealer gave me the wrong washers. Ill be stopping into the dealer later today to show him the old ones and the TSRM. There is no part number for these in the TSRM which makes it difficult.
 

BigKO

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Nov 5, 2008
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SupraTrbo89;2074798 said:
The dealer gave me the wrong washers. Ill be stopping into the dealer later today to show him the old ones and the TSRM. There is no part number for these in the TSRM which makes it difficult.

I had the same problem. They seem to have a really hard time getting the correct part number... even when pointed out to them on the diagram.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Sep 21, 2006
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West Chester, PA
Everything is pretty much back together.....just need to put in the reservoir and 2 hoses up top. Can I use Prestone synthetic fluid or should I go with dealer fluid? Also, getting the air out of the lines....wheels on the car, car on the ground and turn the wheel all the way to each side a few times?

Over all this project was a pain in the ass. It look me a while to figure out how to get to some of the bolts and understand how everything works. Not sure which project I hate more, this or valve seal replacement with the head still on. I like doing these projects b/c it helps me understand the car and also gives me the satisfaction of telling people I did all the work.

Thanks again
 

Asterix

Lurker of Power
Mar 31, 2005
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I've had good results with Mobil 1 ATF. You need a Dexron III-compatible fluid, so as long as it says that on the bottle, you're good. Don't use "PSF" - use ATF.

While you're at it, you should inspect the reservoir and probably clean it. Typically, the screen in there gets all clogged up and needs to be cleaned. That is the only filter in the system.

Fill up the reservoir and get ready to add more after starting the car, after you run it from lock to lock a few times.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Sep 21, 2006
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West Chester, PA
Asterix;2074967 said:
I've had good results with Mobil 1 ATF. You need a Dexron III-compatible fluid, so as long as it says that on the bottle, you're good. Don't use "PSF" - use ATF.

While you're at it, you should inspect the reservoir and probably clean it. Typically, the screen in there gets all clogged up and needs to be cleaned. That is the only filter in the system.

Fill up the reservoir and get ready to add more after starting the car, after you run it from lock to lock a few times.

Ok Thanks....I don't even recall seeing a screen in the PS reservoir unless its down in there about half way. I will check tonight. Also, would you happen to remember how much ATF the system holds?
 

Nick M

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SupraTrbo89;2074797 said:
Regarding the nuts for the outer tie rods.....I have to back the nuts off slightly to get the cotter pins in so the bolt really isn't tight. That doesn't give me the warm fuzzies b/c if the cotter pin ever wore out the nut could come off. Do people generally use lock tight here?

It can come off.

2135QTiMAX_l.jpg


Lock tight is not used.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Sep 21, 2006
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West Chester, PA
Does anyone know if the screen inside the power steering reservoir tank should rest on the ledge half way down inside the tank or on the bottom? I checked the TSRM and didn't seen anything. Resting on the ledge doesn't make sense to me b/c the the return line inlet on the side of the reservoir is below that ledge so no fluid would ever pass through the screen. If on the bottom is correct then my screen was fine the whole time before I fished it out.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Sep 21, 2006
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West Chester, PA
So I read a lot of older threads on adding an in line filter. I am going to go with a Magnefine 3/8 for the low pressure side. Does it matter if I install this under the car near the rack or up top near the reservoir?

Also, after fishing out my screen from the reservoir its ruined so I don't plan on using it since I'll have the Magnefine filter

Another thing worth noting I wish I knew before fishing out my screen....the top of the power steering reservoir comes off so you can easily get the screen out and clean it
 

Asterix

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The easiest place to add the filter is behind the bumper not far from where the "cooler" is. The "cooler" is just a loop of pipe. I cut off the u-turn closest to the hood latch to add my filter with a tiny pipe cutter. The right size hose will just push onto the pipe far enough to get a couple of hose clamps on it. Then, mount the filter behind the bumper.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Sep 21, 2006
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West Chester, PA
Asterix;2075369 said:
The easiest place to add the filter is behind the bumper not far from where the "cooler" is. The "cooler" is just a loop of pipe. I cut off the u-turn closest to the hood latch to add my filter with a tiny pipe cutter. The right size hose will just push onto the pipe far enough to get a couple of hose clamps on it. Then, mount the filter behind the bumper.

Thanks for the info. I looked under the hood and located the loop of pipe - never noticed that before. I'm not 100% sure I want to cut out a section of the metal pipe so I may try and insert the filter between one of the rubber hoses. My filter is in the mail and I noticed it is directional. Can you confirm the fluid leaves out the bottom of the reservoir and comes back in on the side of the reservoir? I may try and connect the filter to the rubber section that connects to the side the reservoir or the rubber section right before it connects to the steering rack. I'll decide once the filter comes in the mail in a few days and I have an idea of its size.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Sep 21, 2006
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West Chester, PA
I finally got the filter installed. I chose to install it right as the low pressure hose comes out of the rack in a section of rubber hose so I didn't have to cut the metal "cooler" pipe which was the other option. I will fill it with mobil 1 ATF tomorrow and bleed the system and take it for a spin.20160528_214521_001 (1).jpg
 

Asterix

Lurker of Power
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I cut my "cooler" so very many years ago... But I didn't know about the Magnefine filters back then, either.
 

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SupraTrbo89

Member
Sep 21, 2006
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West Chester, PA
So I added one full quart of mobile 1 atf and it appears to be full. I was expecting at least 2. The pump is wining a little when I turn the wheel and it didn't do that before the install. The small bubbles seem to have gone away and it looks like the fluid is cycling through the system. How long does it take to get the air out?

Update: I believe I have gotten all the air out. The TSRM says when you get to full lock hold it for 2 - 3 seconds which I wasn't doing.
 
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