Rack and Pinion Install

[SupraTrbo89]

I have an 89 supra turbo with PPS. I will be installing a new rack in a week or so and was wondering if anyone had any tips or advice. I will be using the TSRM and other info I have found on this forum. I ordered my rack from Carsteering.com based on a recommendation from this forum and the fact the rack came with the steering assist module and has a 3 year warranty. A few questions:

1. I was wanted to replace the steering rack bushings and was going to go with the polyurethane set from Raptor Racing. I spoke with George from Raptor racing and he said he took these off his site because people with 89+ were having fitment issues. He is looking to provide a free set of bushings to someone with an 87 or 88 to do a test fit if anyone is interested. Does anyone recommend a polyurathethan set from another vendor?. If not I plan on going with an OEM set from Driftmotion.

2. I am going to replace the high pressure hose while I'm doing this job even though mine isn't leaking. I was going to try the upgraded line from Driftmotion as I believe it eliminates one of the banjo fittings. Has anyone used this line or should I just go OEM.

3. I was going to purchase a set of the steering spacers that thread on the inner tie rod. Are these worth me purchasing? Does it improve the steering angle as noted.

4. Do you think I should replace the pump while I'm at it. I have heard it wine when the fluid has gotten low from the leaking rack but if I keep it filled it is fine.

Thanks,
Tim

 

[supraguy@aol]

1. I got my steering rack bushings from Ronnie K. He makes bushings for the rack, as well as front and rear subframe bushings. I installed these on my '88. Can't comment as to how they would fit any differently on an '89

2. I have the Diftmotion high pressure hose on my '88 as well. There's no problems with it, though I kinda wish it were about 2" longer, so as to route through the oem hose mounts. As I recall, it does replace the banjo at the rack end.

3. Don't know anything about steering rack spacers.

4. I wouldn't replace the pump unless you know there's a problem with it. But that's just me. PS- You can also buy rebuild kits for the pumps, if you want to replace the internal seals.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Steer...ash=item464a5fb332:g:FewAAOSwP~tW42TN&vxp=mtr

 

[SupraTrbo89]

Appreciate the input...thanks

 

[Nick M]

It is hard to do all of it OEM, as it is out of production. And assholes are selling reman units for significantly more money because the aftermarket sucks. Good luck in your endeavor.

 

[SupraTrbo89]

I am finally working on the install and can not get the high pressure line loose. I have the bolt broke loose inside the ps pump but the bolt, copper washer, banjo fitting and other copper washer are all stuck together. So when i turn the bolt it is turning the entire line and the metal section of the line hits the ps pulley and I don't want to use that to try against. One thing I noticed is that the copper washers appear to be joined together with a copper "bridge" almost that wraps over the banjo section. Not sure if that has anything to do with my issue. Maybe it was made this way to make the install easier. I have the Driftmotion high pressure line so I don't care about the one on there now. Just need to get the bolt unfroze from the banjo fitting/washers.

 

[SupraTrbo89]

I am finally working on the install and can not get the high pressure line loose. I have the bolt broke loose inside the ps pump but the bolt, copper washer, banjo fitting and other copper washer are all stuck together. So when i turn the bolt it is turning the entire line and the metal section of the line hits the ps pulley and I don't want to use that to try against. One thing I noticed is that the copper washers appear to be joined together with a copper "bridge" almost that wraps over the banjo section. Not sure if that has anything to do with my issue. Maybe it was made this way to make the install easier. I have the Driftmotion high pressure line so I don't care about the one on there now. Just need to get the bolt unfroze from the banjo fitting/washers.

I got the high pressure hose off.....one question I have is that I noticed the stock line has a little rubber seal where it connects to the pump...the driftmotion line just has 2 copper washers....is that fine or do I need to reuse the rubber seal

 

[suprarx7nut]

I got the high pressure hose off.....one question I have is that I noticed the stock line has a little rubber seal where it connects to the pump...the driftmotion line just has 2 copper washers....is that fine or do I need to reuse the rubber seal

I dont recall any rubber seal from when I did this years ago. Can you point out where it is based on the numbered diagram here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=4503&P=1

 

[supraguy@aol]

Yeah, can you post a pic?

 

[SupraTrbo89]

I believe the bolt i backed out was suppose to stay with the pump....there is even a rubber seal on the end of the bolt for inside the pump.

That was all seized together....even though i have the new line i think i may have to recycle the bolt on the end in the pic

 

[SupraTrbo89]

I am now removing the two lines from the rack.....they also have the same copper gasket piece preventing me from turning the bolts unless i apply a lot of force and snap the copper gasket.....is there something I am missing here as far as unbolting these banjo fittings? These copper gaskets get hung up on the flanges on the banjo fittings......should i be bending these flanges out of the way?

 

[Asterix]

The copper gaskets are crush washers, same sort as used on brake line banjo fittings to seal high-pressure fittings. Toyota made the two into one to make assembly easier. The bolt should come out of the banjo. In your photo above, the bolt you removed with the o-ring should have stayed in the pump. The bridge between top and bottom crush washers should not get in your way at all when you remove the center bolt. The banjo does not turn - only the bolt through the banjo turns.

In the link above by suprarx7nut, bolts marked 44411C and 44406C are the ones to remove. 44406B and 44327A are the crush washers. These crush washers should not be reused. The bolts can be reused.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Asterix probably addressed your concerns, but don't worry if you completely ruin the copper parts. Those must be replaced with new anyways. Crush washers, like most sealing mechanisms aren't meant to seal more than once.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

[SupraTrbo89]

ok thanks..ill get new copper washers from the dealer this week.

One other question....I removed the 2 12mm bolts on the intermediate shaft (not sure if both need to be removed)....one down where it connects into the rack and the other up closer to the fire wall. how do you free the intermediate shaft from the rack? The bolts are out but nothing will move.......do i need to unbolt the rack first and get it to slide out?

 

[Asterix]

After you remove the bolt down at the rack, you'll probably need to spritz it with something like PB Blaster. Also, pry the ears apart a little where the bolt goes through. The splines are probably stuck together quite well.

You do need to break loose the upper connection because the steering shaft has to get shorter in order for it to slip off the rack. The upper connection sets the overall length. Spritz it as well, and pry the ears apart a little with a big screwdriver and it should slide better.

You only need to remove the lower bolt.

 

[SupraTrbo89]

Appreciate it....that clears it up for me.

Last thing i need to do other than what you just mentioned is break the bolts loose at the the tie rod ends. When i go to use a breaker bar the wheels turn on me....can i just let the wheel lock itself to break them lose.....i have not disconnected the intermediate shaft yet....i wouldn't want the wheel moving if that was disconnected.....unfortunately no air tools. On the rack itself i have the 2 large bolts only broken loose but not removed at this point.

Thanks again for the tips.

 

[Asterix]

Using the steering wheel lock to keep the wheels from turning should work ok. Or, turn the wheels all the way until they hit the stops. The tie rod nuts shouldn't need lots of torque to break loose. Definitely leave the two rack mounts tight until everything else is off.

 

[SupraTrbo89]

Thanks again...Ill just let it turn all the way to one side while I break them loose.

 

[Nick M]

Crush washers, like most sealing mechanisms aren't meant to seal more than once.

And they are standardized in sized. Just make sure you have metric units.

 

[BigKO]

And they are standardized in sized. Just make sure you have metric units.

I just finished a power steering rack replacement myself while doing the sub-frame poly bushing install front and rear.

They are standardized sizes but I had a hell of a time sourcing them locally at any auto parts store. I believe the pressure hose (from driftmotion) comes with the proper size copper crush washers (16mm i.d. ), one per end. They eliminate the banjo bolt so the bridged crush washer is not necessary, though you could purchase one of those and cut off the bridge in a pinch.

A couple things to note: The low pressure return hose, which ultimately runs to your power steering cooler is *not* 16mm i.d. I believe it is 17mm. These should be ordered from Toyota unless you feel comfortable boring out the center hole on 16mm copper crush washers, which is less than ideal.

Hope that helps.

 

[SupraTrbo89]

Yes, the driftmotion line does come with the two copper washers so I'm covered there. I will need to get 2 copper washers from the dealer where the low pressure side connects to the rack.

At this point everything has been unbolted except one of the driver side bolts holding the rack clamp which isn't to bad to get to. Then I just need to get the intermediate shaft to slide up toward the steering wheel and I'm good. Some of the bolts were a major pain in the ass with this job. I got both bolts for the high and low lines connecting to the rack and the tough passenger side rack clamp bolt from up above. I had 3 long extensions on a breaker bar.