Quick question on Camber

[SupraMadness]

Hey guys, im wondering on how to adjust camber. Would it mess with my toe as well? I kno i can turn eccentrics but which way? im looking to gain a little negative camber. Thanks for the help

 

[spikesnstuff0905]

The supra's suspention is fully adjustable. toe, caster, camber, everything. If you want uber JDM 1million* of negative camber so you and your F&F buddies can get slideways on the way back from Race Wars, JIC sells upper arms, and HPF has a camber kit, as well as quite a few other places You adjust camber the same way you do any car. Figure it out.
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html Read that.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanceparts/Toyota/Supra_MK3/Suspension/Camber_Kits That is for fixing camber, not making it worse, so you probably won't be interested.

 

[xzeror]

If a Mk3 is lowered more than 1.5" in the rear you CAN'T get the rear toe and camber even close to spec, you can have one or the other.

I stand by this as it's just the rear geomery there's no magic settings to get it right, if I had to choose I'd get the toe correct and live with the camber as Toe out while making the car really stable at high speed stops it turning in well (bit like driving a spool equipped car)

Camber will just wear the outside edge of the tire in time/miles, If you want it "right" on both the only way I found to achieve this was the mod I suggested.

The mod in question.

Only way I've found to do it right is to shorten the lower transverse arms 15mm each, this puts the adjusters back in the middle of their range.

Front shouldn't be an issue as there's enough adjustment even lowered, rear can be a problem as once you drop it they can either get Toe correct or Camber correct but not both.

 

[SupraMadness]

Not really looking on buying camber arms yet. BTW i dont drift, just want the camber reason being "looks" Im only looking to get a small amount of camber just to have no wheel gap. But thanks for ur response?

 

[xzeror]

Oh... your trying to get negative camber.... Just lower and adjust?

 

[SupraMadness]

Oh... your trying to get negative camber.... Just lower and adjust?

Yea im trying to get negative camber, my coilovers in rear are maxed, didnt seem to gain negative camber at all. And adjust the camber bolts? Which direction?

 

[xzeror]

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=RA&P=4

 

[SupraMadness]

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=RA&P=4

thanks

 

[hvyman]

You need to do full alignment. Any time you mess with camber you have to adjust toe.

 

[IJ.]

Not really looking on buying camber arms yet. BTW i dont drift, just want the camber reason being "looks" Im only looking to get a small amount of camber just to have no wheel gap. But thanks for ur response?

:nono:

 

[spikesnstuff0905]

If you want Hellaflush front camber, most cost effective route is to cut a small length fron the UCA's and have them welded back together, but you need to have an actual welder do it, not your buddy with a HF tig. It also takes some calculations to get perfect, and can really mess your alignment up if you do it wrong. There is a write up on it somewhere, i just can't find it atm. negative camber is actually good for the MK3. They get more responsive if you're only going -by a few degres, but too much of anything is a bad thing.

 

[SupraMadness]

:nono:

also cause i have 18x10's -1 and i dont want rubbing at all lol thanks tho guys

 

[IJ.]

also cause i have 18x10's -1 and i dont want rubbing at all lol thanks tho guys

So you have big expensive tires that will tear up the inside edge and give limited traction..... :nono:

really don't "get" you guys at times..

 

[hvyman]

More like almost no traction. Thats like 4-5 in contact patch.

 

[Poodles]

If you want Hellaflush front camber, most cost effective route is to cut a small length fron the UCA's and have them welded back together, but you need to have an actual welder do it, not your buddy with a HF tig. It also takes some calculations to get perfect, and can really mess your alignment up if you do it wrong. There is a write up on it somewhere, i just can't find it atm. negative camber is actually good for the MK3. They get more responsive if you're only going -by a few degres, but too much of anything is a bad thing.

Welding on a cast aluminum arm that more than likely was heat treated = BAD IDEA

 

[spikesnstuff0905]

It's what all the 240 kids do, and JIC used to sell upper arms for the Supra that were this exact thing. OEM UCA's that were cut and re-welded. Just so you know.

 

[hvyman]

Welding on anything cast is iffy. 240 guys can get a whole arm kit for like 400. No need to sell welded junk.

 

[IJ.]

I'd say you'll find our UCA's are Forged and NOT cast...
(having said that I'd still :runaway: from a welded set...)

 

[Poodles]

It's what all the 240 kids do, and JIC used to sell upper arms for the Supra that were this exact thing. OEM UCA's that were cut and re-welded. Just so you know.

Um, no, the JIC arms are NOT modified stock arms.

 

[hvyman]

There is no need to modifiy stock arms esp for 240's
http://www.enjukuracing.com/nissan-240sx-suspension-c-2_138.html