Peak warnings (exhaust,water,oil)
- Thread starter SupraClaou
- Start date
Andre;1089897 said:
Andre;1089905 said:
Andre;1089910 said:
Those are exceptionally high EGT. 900c especially if you are reading those post turbo. You are probably seeing 950c temp before the turbo. WAY to high. Those tempratures will make short work of the turbo if you are lucky.
On the unlucky side, molten puddle of head, pistons etc.
IJ.;1089340 said:
A very good and complete cooling system.
Now let me describe my cooling system:
(I have a 2jzgte with stock twins)
-New 7mgte 1991 radiator
-New 7mgte radiator cap (0.9 bar)
-Stock 7mgte fan shroud...like new
-Stock engine undercover
-New 2jzgte mechanical pump
-New 2jzgte coupling
-New 2jzgte fan (Greddy underdrive pulleys)
-New 2jzgte 82'C thermostat
-Stock 2jzgte O2W oil cooler
-Toyota red coolant
-New coolant hoses (so...no leak)
-No electric fan (the 2 small ones didn't fit with the 2jz swap)
With this setup I had no issue in the winter.But on a summer day,after driving
constantly at 140 km/h and suddently I got into traffic the coolant temp.
on the Defi link display read 108'C (220 F) while the stock oem gauge went
up at 3/5 (not even close in the red zone)...but I started to worry about it!
Ofcaurse ambient temperature was about 40'C (105 F) :aigo:
Then I decided to improve my cooling system :icon_bigg
I am waiting to install on my car:
-O2A oil cooler with an oil filter relocation kit (keep the stock O2W oil cooler)
..will be located after the intercooler & before the A/C condenser'
-Sard 72'C (160F) low temp. thermostat
-Blitz 1.3 bar radiator cap
-Spal 12" 460cfm electric fan (put it infront of the condenser,with a switch)
-Carbon hood with vents (for the heat to go out of the engine bay).I think
this upgrade will make a big difference...
-And last an aftermarket front bumper with big front openings for more air
to get into the engine bay.And IJ is right about the frontal area which is
a main factor on the cooling system.
What do you think about my future upgrade? IJ give me your 5 cent :icon_bigg
Personally, I would dump the O2W oil cooler completely and switch over to a thermostat controlled full flow oil cooler circuit. I would use the biggest O2A oil cooler I could fit. This will have a pretty big effect on coolant temps by itself...you are no longer transferring heat to the coolant and are providing an additional way for heat to be dissipated from the motor.
If you are using a stock ECU, I would not use the 72C thermostat...the motor will take too long to warm up and stay in warm-up enrichment until coolant temps hit 80C.
The 1.3 bar rad cap will do little to help...I would stick with the stock .9 bar.
If you are using a stock ECU, I would not use the 72C thermostat...the motor will take too long to warm up and stay in warm-up enrichment until coolant temps hit 80C.
The 1.3 bar rad cap will do little to help...I would stick with the stock .9 bar.
Agreed with Jdub - run a 180F degree thermostat, not a 160F. Also agree on the over pressurizing the coolant system - stick with the stock cap.
Personally, I'm planning to use Evan's NPG+ coolant in my Supra.
Personally, I'm planning to use Evan's NPG+ coolant in my Supra.
Doward;1090164 said:
Not too sure if I would do that John
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39219
I realize NGP+ is "supposed" to be a direct replacement...it is still the same base chemical make-up of the standard NPG coolant. The bottom line is the Supra coolant system is not made to handle it. Personally, I'm going to use HOAT coolant....Zyrex G-05 to be exact.
di_rosa;1087822 said:
That is where my prosport is set to start giving me a warning, and no my probe is not in my cat it is about 2.5 inches from the y-pipe on the twins.
The reason I have my peak set there is because I decided to go post turbine instead of pre turbine, so my egt's are naturally going to be higher. Wouldn't really make much sense to me to have peak set at 1350F post turbine when actual egt's are probably past 1500F.
My apologies for not mentioning where the probe is mounted as position does make alot of difference.
I am currently gathering all the bits and chews for the single upgrade. This time the egt probe is going in #6 runner.
Wayne
Wayne
jdub;1090171 said:
Is this what you are talking about?
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=10
If so I will get that instead of Toyota Red like I was planning
That would be it Jag...JJ got me using this...good stuff. Might want to get some dye for it, it's very light colored. Since you're putting it in a new motor, no flush necessary either.
SupraClaou;1090111 said:
The lower temp T Stat will only give you a head start before it reaches 220f.
In summer you're exceeding the cooling system capacity nothing more left to give as I mentioned earlier the O2W Cooler is dumping extra BTU's into a limited capacity due to the stock size radiator.
If you make xxx BTU and your system can only shed xx BTU's you're in trouble and it will only get worse the longer you're in a range that generates the extra heat.
SPD TRP;1090226 said:
Bit confused at the bold line Wayne?
Post Turbine is always lower.
jdub;1090171 said:Not too sure if I would do that John
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39219
I realize NGP+ is "supposed" to be a direct replacement...it is still the same base chemical make-up of the standard NPG coolant. The bottom line is the Supra coolant system is not made to handle it. Personally, I'm going to use HOAT coolant....Zyrex G-05 to be exact.
Interesting... I'll look into the HOAT coolant - are they non-aqueous?
http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls2.htm
Certainly, the specific heat is lower than water - I've already modified the head to increase flow, and looking at the block, I don't think fluid velocity will be a problem.
The viscosity was the only problem I was seeing. Even then, I'm going to be running a large tubed, dual core aluminum radiator.
It'll be an interesting experiment. I'll have to report back when I do get that far along
HOAT = Hybrid Organic Acid Technology...it is aqueous. G-05 is an ethylene glycol based coolant; the HOAT refers to the inhibitor package that contains both inorganic and organic inhibitors. It is low-silicate, low-pH and phosphate-free formula that works well with aluminum.
One of the biggest problems with NGP is it's viscosity...conventional cooling systems have a hard time handling it. That is why it needed a pump upgrade to run it. But hey, go for it...it it keeps a good temp constant and is able to handle increased heat loads for a Supra motor, it's a good thing
One of the biggest problems with NGP is it's viscosity...conventional cooling systems have a hard time handling it. That is why it needed a pump upgrade to run it. But hey, go for it...it it keeps a good temp constant and is able to handle increased heat loads for a Supra motor, it's a good thing
IJ.;1090359 said:
So what do you suggest? The only thing I haven't upgrade is the
radiator...and I won't do it cause there is no room for an aftermarket
bigger aluminum radiator :nono: The fan will hit the radiator :naughty:
And remove the O2W cooler to stop heat from the oil putting additional load on the coolant system...as I suggested earlier (post #24), a thermostat controlled circuit hooked up to as big an O2A cooler you can fit will do a lot to help remove the BTU's from the motor IJ is talking about.
jdub;1089110 said:
:aigo: What? My last 7m oil temp. under normal driving was around 210-215. And north of that when my right foot gets into it.
Shit my LS6 on a hot, 90 degree day or so has a oil temp of range of 237-244 running down the Interstate at 75-80 MPH. Oil temp on a cooler 70 degree day sits around 228-233 degrees.
Then you need a better cooler
Oil viscosity is spec'ed at 40 and 100 deg C...the higher is it's rated ops temp. Above that, oil viscosity decreases quite rapidly due to heat.
Oil viscosity is spec'ed at 40 and 100 deg C...the higher is it's rated ops temp. Above that, oil viscosity decreases quite rapidly due to heat.
Ok some data logging from the dyno yesterday.
Coolant temp: 88.2c
RPM: 6929
Oil pressure: 62.2 Psi
Intake Cold side: 34.3c
Intake Hot side: 160.3c
Manifold pressure: 248.6 Kpa
EGT: 736c
Injector duty cycle: 59.5%
Fuel pressure 59.1 Psi
Lambda: .85
Trans line pressure: 179.8 psi
Ign advance: 8.9 degrees
rear wheel speed: 214 Kph
Coolant temp: 88.2c
RPM: 6929
Oil pressure: 62.2 Psi
Intake Cold side: 34.3c
Intake Hot side: 160.3c
Manifold pressure: 248.6 Kpa
EGT: 736c
Injector duty cycle: 59.5%
Fuel pressure 59.1 Psi
Lambda: .85
Trans line pressure: 179.8 psi
Ign advance: 8.9 degrees
rear wheel speed: 214 Kph
you forgot the most important number IJ.........
My EGT probe is located right in the collector of my manifold, before it goes into the turbo, and it's all heat wrapped. I usually read 1000-1200f cruising, shooting up to 1400f when hard on it. I set the warning for 1500f.
My EGT probe is located right in the collector of my manifold, before it goes into the turbo, and it's all heat wrapped. I usually read 1000-1200f cruising, shooting up to 1400f when hard on it. I set the warning for 1500f.
More than 2 weeks ago but less than 2 years ago
The car spent a total of 7 hours on the rollers in the past 2 weeks doing pulls to the limiter (6900 these days)
Pretty damn happy how it behaved and while it's NOT the most powerful it's been it's the most reliable and stable state of tune it's had.
The car spent a total of 7 hours on the rollers in the past 2 weeks doing pulls to the limiter (6900 these days)
Pretty damn happy how it behaved and while it's NOT the most powerful it's been it's the most reliable and stable state of tune it's had.