Oil: Royal Purple

jdub

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Modern VI improvers are high molecular weight polymers that remain inert at low temperatures. As oil is heated, they expand to help the oil maintain its viscosity. You are correct, the bigger the difference between the cold oil and the hot oil viscosity, the more volume of viscosity modifiers and less the volume of base stock. Excessive heat will break down long chain polymers over time...the correct solution to this problem is a good cooler for your oil. Synthetic oils withstand higher temperatures before breaking down, and have more base stock and less viscosity modifiers.

The additive package in a modern motor oil contains much more than just VI improvers and the total percentage of additives varies between manufacturer's. However, in order to meet SAE/API standards the oil must perform per the rating on the label....a 5W-40 behaves as 5 weight oil at low temperatures but gives protection of 40 weight oil at high engine operating temperatures.
 
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jdub

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SupaMan said:
I mean its not like you HAVE to run 20w50 when you get royal purple get whatever you please but i was saying thats what i run and ive yet to blow a motor with it in the pan. :) I beat my lil n/a pretty hard too. :\

Running a 20W-50 isn't going to blow your motor...but, you're not doing your engine any favors either. That oil reduces flow to your bearings, oil cooler, and oil filter. It's just simple physics ;)
 

donnys90T

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SupaMan said:
I get great oil pressure on cold mornings may not be like 5 below zero cold but 30-40 degrees. I have better oil pressure now than i did with the penzoil 10w30 in it, yea that could be caused by alot of things but the fact is i get very good oil pressure right now.

Lol. Just think how much better it'd be when even colder but why wait for that? Stick some 90W gear oil in there ;)
 
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SupaMan

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donnys90T said:
Lol. Just think how much better it'd be when even colder but why wait for that? Stick some 90W gear oil in there ;)
florida doesnt get that cold and i dont plan on leaving any time soon :thefinger
 

jdub

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SupaMan said:
florida doesnt get that cold and i dont plan on leaving any time soon :thefinger

Donny just posted what I was thinking...you really don't have a clue about how motor oil works dude. And until you take the time to learn, you might as well pour 90W in there...that will give you plenty of pressure ;)
 

donnys90T

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Nope, not a clue. Another potential bitron customer. I wonder if he has any idea how thick that oil is? You think he's looked at the cold vis on the data sheet? I just did. It ain't pretty. It's also clear he hasn't clue about why it's bad to run a high vis when hot. Reminds me, hows that 0-30 working out for you in AZ? Good thing it's cooler there than in FL.

As with most cars the OP sender on the Supra is located very near the oil pump instead of the other end of the oil circuit. Pressure is resistance to flow. High oil pressure is the very last thing wanted when cold. The oil pump could even even be in relief. Ignorance is bliss but if he won't listen why sweat it. It's his engine. Do as I and take perverted pleasure in knowing what's happening to it.
 
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jdub said:
Donny just posted what I was thinking...you really don't have a clue about how motor oil works dude. And until you take the time to learn, you might as well pour 90W in there...that will give you plenty of pressure ;)

er.. i could have sworn that 90w gear oil had the same viscosity as 40w motor oil when at 100C. at any rate, the numbers for gear and motor oils are not on the same scale.
 

donnys90T

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It does but not when cold. The point being made is he's wrongly focused on pressure. He thinks high pressure is good when cold when nothing could be further from the truth. It ain't all that good when hot either.
 

jdub

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Donny speaks the truth ;)

A lot of guys will put washers in the relief valve to increase oil pressure...that's fine, but more is not better. I did it to mine...only 1.5mm worth. That gives me 10 psi at hot idle and just over 40 psi at cruise. It's perfect with the 0W-30 I'm running.

To increase oil pressure by putting thick oil in the pan is self defeating...you are starving yiour bearings for oil on cold starts. Multi-grade 50W doesn't flow as well hot as a Multi-grade 30W either.
 

SupaMan

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no i dont know alot about oil but your basicly calling my eyes and my experiances lies because of what your knowlage and sheets show.


i never said i was right about anything i know im wrong about prolly most of it doesnt mean you gotta get all pissy and shit but if you wanna be like that you can blow me ill believe myself and the way my car runs before i listen to anybody claiming to have knowlage about it, thanks for the info.
 

jdub

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Hey man - you're the one that gave Donny the finger.
I was being pretty nice about your lack of knowledge till then...I saw that and the gloves came off.

You'd be a great customer for Bi-Tron :biglaugh:
 

starscream5000

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SupaMan said:
no i dont know alot about oil but your basicly calling my eyes and my experiances lies because of what your knowlage and sheets show.


i never said i was right about anything i know im wrong about prolly most of it doesnt mean you gotta get all pissy and shit but if you wanna be like that you can blow me ill believe myself and the way my car runs before i listen to anybody claiming to have knowlage about it, thanks for the info.

Play nice... Debate, don't argue or this thread will be locked down pretty quickly. ;)

If you don't like the facts that these guys are being nice (not to mention patient) enough to hand out, then don't do it and stick with what you've been doing. Just remember that what's been said about what can and will happen to the engine using heavier oils will do to the life expectancy of the bearings.
 

SupaMan

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I was playin with donny when i gave him the finger thats why the smiley also smiling wide with pearly whites and shit. Almost every post ive made the end was about not starting a fight now you wanna say pour 90w in my car as a joke? You think all you want about whats happening to my motor i know its fine i guess you should tell my friend whos been running it in his drag cars for years that he needs to switch or how about my other friends bike maybe you should tell him that too seeing as it is a new motor. (05) You see its not just my car thats running it its a wide varitey of cars and bikes around me. No im not an oil guru ,No i dont understand all your sheet stuff with lines and numbers and shit. I know what works for me and if it works im gonna use it and thats the end of it for me. thanks for the info on everything.
 

JesseH

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SupaMan said:
I was playin with donny when i gave him the finger thats why the smiley also smiling wide with pearly whites and shit. Almost every post ive made the end was about not starting a fight now you wanna say pour 90w in my car as a joke? You think all you want about whats happening to my motor i know its fine i guess you should tell my friend whos been running it in his drag cars for years that he needs to switch or how about my other friends bike maybe you should tell him that too seeing as it is a new motor. (05) You see its not just my car thats running it its a wide varitey of cars and bikes around me. No im not an oil guru ,No i dont understand all your sheet stuff with lines and numbers and shit. I know what works for me and if it works im gonna use it and thats the end of it for me. thanks for the info on everything.
all jdub is offering is his opinion nothing more, he never said you were wrong or that you should follow by what he says. Nobody should be getting pissy at all, if you don't like what someone is recomending then don't do it its your car not theirs, do what you want and they will do what they want.
 

jdub

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Might want to think about something...it didn't come across as a joke. Most guys will put "j/k" when they are joking around and that's fine. We can't read your mind.

Ask your drag car buddy how many times a year he re-builds his motor. And what about the NASCAR guys? They're running 0W-20 in the races...wonder why they would do that ;)

Don't know a lot about bikes, but they do run at a heck of a lot higher rpm than an automotive engine. But I suspect, your bike buddy suffers from the same "50W is better" myth that has plagued motors for the last 25 years.

You are free to use whatever you want...no skin off my back or anyone else here. You are also free to educate yourself and make a choice based on the facts...not necessarily "because my buddies do it".
 

SupaMan

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nah my friends bike is running what honda says to run in it just a diffrent brand.

Ill have to ask him how many times he changes his oil and rebuilds his motors not too often i know that because hes got a shop to run he doesnt have alot of time to fuck with his own cars.

x87 all i was doing was saying my opinion right back at him im not out to piss people off or cause this thread to get locked. If its headed that way ill just stay out of the thread nice debating with you guys.
 
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jdub said:
And what about the NASCAR guys? They're running 0W-20 in the races...wonder why they would do that ;)

Don't know a lot about bikes, but they do run at a heck of a lot higher rpm than an automotive engine. But I suspect, your bike buddy suffers from the same "50W is better" myth that has plagued motors for the last 25 years.

i dont think higher rpm motors would require higher weight oils, remember that The Formula 1 cars that run at 15,000 RPM and higher use straight 5 and 10 weight oils.

but i also dont know alot about bikes and its very possible that honda has a reason to recommend 50w in its bikes. but that certainly doesnt mean every engine would benifit from 50w.

personally i use the lowest weight oil that gives me the pressures i look for. since we dont have a flow gauge, we need to look at pressure. roughly 10psi per 1000rpm. if i can get those numbers with both a 0w-20 and a 20w-50, i will use the 0w-20 because it will have better flow. more flow at the same pressure will mean better lube and better cooling. this has all been said before in this thread but i like to ::dead horse::

one thing i continually see people get confussed about is the lower number in multigrades. i'll make it easy. if you have a choice between say 0w-30 5w-30 and 10w-30, always get 0w-30. in my opinion there is no reason to ever buy a 10w-xx if a 5w-xx is available and no reason for a 5w-xx if a 0w-xx exists in the brand you use.
some people think the lower number is the winter weight so they use a 0w-xx in winter and a 10w-xx in summer. this is wrong. the low number is the cold weight but cold is a relative term. 110 degree arizona sun is cold for motor oil. at 110 degrees, the viscosity of even a 0w-xx is too thick to properly lube an engine. a 5w or 10w would be even worse. this is why toyota put a sticker on the drivers door telling us not to race the car with a cold engine.:naughty:
once the engine gets to operating temp, the oil will have the viscosity properties of the higher number.
 

donnys90T

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Well said and essentially correct. Have to be careful though. There are some 5W that thicken less than 0W. The only way top know is to check the oil's data sheet.

Choosing an oil for a bike application requires a different approach for several reasons. Type of cooling and friction modifier effects on a wet clutch are just two. Another reason for heavier oils in bikes is shearing from a shared sump. The oil in your Supra's engine isn't the same one in your transmission. Not the case in most, but not all, bikes. Shared sumps really tear a motor oil up.
 
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tekdeus

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I was thinking of running the lightest weight engine oil I could get away with, but was unsure and concerned about something like a 0W-xxW; I was wondering if oil that is too thin could cause slack and impact between parts. What do you folks recommend for a 400 hp 7M?