n/a high rpm build

lostshadowz

New Member
Dec 4, 2005
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seattle
hey I have a 7mge and want to get as much hp and rpm's as i can out if it. I know it wont be cheap and all my friends tell me to go turbo. but i've never liked to go with the flow so i was woundering if any of you guys have any sugestion on where I could get info on how to go about getting higher rpm's and hp out of my supra.
 

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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Florida
You can check out Defiant's build. And there is a lot of info just posted in the stickies about manifolds. ITB's would be the cream on the top of everything else, what I'd like to do for mine:)
 

gofastgeorge

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Jan 24, 2008
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lostshadowz;981717 said:
hey I have a 7mge and want to get as much hp and rpm's as i can out if it..

You mean like this one:
http://rides.sportcompactcarweb.com/ride/1007534/texas-cressida/1989/toyota/cressida/index.html

Besides what doward mentioned,
you will also have to get rid of the stock rev limiter.
This is done by replacing the 3 clock crystals
in the ECU with ones of different values.

There is a guy who used to run an ad in Grass Roots Racing
that will do this to any Toyota ECU.

Also keep in mind that because of the 7M's
stroke-rod length ratio, it does not like more that 8500 RPM.
This is because they start to exceed the
magical 140,000 ft/sec/sec piston acceleration point
where things like pistons, pins, and rods start to fail,
and rings will no longer seal.
 

cuel

Supramania Contributor
Jan 8, 2007
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Baytown, Texas
Can't forget valve train. Dual springs, titanium retainers and seats, etc. Might want to port and polish the head while you're there...
 

gofastgeorge

Banned
Jan 24, 2008
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cuel;984202 said:
Can't forget valve train. Dual springs, titanium retainers and seats, etc. Might want to port and polish the head while you're there...

Yup, that or use TODA inner shim cam buckets.
They alone weigh 1/3rd less than the stock bucket & shims.
And are good for way more RPM that a 7M can do.

Another thing to look at on the 7M head is unshrouding the valves in the combustion chamber.
The combustion chamber walls are very close to the intake valves.
I cut mine back 1.5mm.
You can also remove the little finger that sticks down in between the 2 valves.

Back in the days of Group-A racing, the 7Ms heads were cut back to the edge of the cylinders, somewhat like a full hemi head.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
Problem with changing the clock to raise the rev limit is it's a global change that affects all the ECU calculations. (fuel and timing)

If the OP is serious he'll use a standalone.

I was running my GTE at 8300 for long pulls year before last and for this you need the very best valvetrain money can buy.
 

lostshadowz

New Member
Dec 4, 2005
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seattle
Thank you for the help. I'll keep you guys posted on how every thing goes soon as i figure out the parts and what not.



Edit
On a side note if i had the money I was thinking just have some one make me a 7mge out of titanium. wouldn't have to worry about parts getting to hot. just the seals and gaskets. but wouldn't that be a trip?
 
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gofastgeorge

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Jan 24, 2008
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I just checked with the guy in Florida that did my ECU 2 years ago,
and he still does them.
The price is the same, $100 + $10 return shipping.

He does both the NA & turbo ECUs.

Contact info:
Name: Kieth Golden
E-mail address: keith.goldin.co75@statefarm.com

This, an APEX-i Super-AFC, SARD fuel pressure regulator, and a lighter spring in the AFM (from the 4AG meter) is all that I did to the fuel system on my 7M.
And it works great !
Daily driver, with no problems after 2 years.
 

amichie

New Member
Apr 13, 2006
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sYDNEy
I have done the crystal swap on few ECUs and I would recommend caution particularly on a turbo engine. For my 7mge auto it worked well as I mostly wanted the shift points to increase in rpm. A 10% increase in xtal frequency should be fairly safe. This will up your rev limit and shift points in an auto by about 10%.
 

lostshadowz

New Member
Dec 4, 2005
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seattle
hey just a little update. I have some parts planned out already but as far as pistons and related parts go. I'm working with my cousin on how high i can take the compression as stock is 9.2:1 so far we think we can take it to 10:1.

here is a list of what i have now

NGK iridium plugs, magnecore compatition racing wires 10mm, K&N fpik filter, powerslot sloted roters and goodyear steel breaded brake lines.

list of what i'm thinking of getting so far
Horepower freaks aem system
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pri...gine_Management/Engine_Management_Stand_Alone
hard pipe replacment for the upper radiator hose they have on suprastore.com
Fluidyne radiator.

as always any thoughts or tips are welcome. i'll see takeing pics before, durring, and after the build and keeping you guys uptodate if you want.

thank you for all the help^.^
 

amichie

New Member
Apr 13, 2006
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sYDNEy
gofastgeorge;996798 said:
Should be the same.
What crystals did you use ?

In the Cressida ECU.

Stock was 12Mhz. There are two that need to be swapped.

I have used 12.96Mhz. These are in Blackcat's cressida and I also tested the ECU in my car.

I have 14Mhz in mine since I have a shift kit and the auto up shift points are now too low in the rev range.

Blackat's car makes good power in the high rpm ranges. Mine is a bit of a slug above 5500rpm. I need a good set of headers.