my summer project!

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
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I thought a few members here might appreciate this one so I thought I might give a little teaser of the summer project.


cel1.jpg

cel2.jpg

cel3.jpg



sorry, way to much to do to before I can even give a full body shot.

(Bonus to anyone who can correctly identify the year! ;) )
 

Facime

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Jun 1, 2006
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HIDPLANET;1288910 said:
I always wanted one of my birth year:

Ive always wanted a first year 71 "flatlight", but as those are just so rare and impossible to find for cheap, I had to go with this one.

ForcedTorque;1288925 said:
Oh Hell Yeah, this will be one bad ass project!!!!!!!!!!!!

Its going to get lots of TLC first. I just need it to be safe and streetable for now. Eventually it will get a modern powerplant. Im leaning towards a turbo 4 like the 3SGTE, but It will probably come down to what I can find for the best price when it comes time.

Ive regretted selling my last one ever since. When this one popped up locally for a good price I couldnt pass it up.
 

Facime

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Jun 1, 2006
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Project is progressing nicely. I still have under a grand into it at this point but that will change once I start with the motor swap, ;)


more teasers:

DSCF2794.JPG



DSCF2800.JPG
 

Mk3runner

Supramania Contributor
Nov 19, 2006
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I remember this one that I think was a 79 black with mags on it. Did they all come with 22rs? Either way.. I love the leather the 8 track and the body.. I wouldn't mind a bpu daily driver..
 

Facime

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Jun 1, 2006
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The 22R came later (3rd gen). 1st gens were 8RC 18RC then 20R in the US. Other countries got a variety as well, including the 18RG which was a DOHC hemi head yamaha motor that put out close to 140 in stock trim.

My 75 is the first year of the long running R series in a Celica. The appeal for me is the availability of suspension parts crossed over from the AE86, and an under 2500lb curb weight. Not to mention, I think the body is dead sexy!


Edit: oh also, the interiors are vinyl not leather, and I just learned that the ST versions actually had cloth seats that Ive never seen in real life. Mine will probably be a mix of cloth (mircosuede) and vinyl when Im done with it.
 

Facime

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Mk3runner;1309252 said:
What are your plans??

To be honest it really depends on how much work I can come up with this summer, but initially my plans are pretty realistic. Im almost done with the suspension and brakes already. I essentially dropped the entire undercarriage out from under it, cleaned and painted the hard parts and replaced all the soft parts including springs, bushings, struts, brakes hoses, rebuilt calipers, rotors, etc.

The motor is solid as it sits as the 20R is pretty much bulletproof in stock or mildly modded form. I have a Weber carb, Edelbrock manifold, Mild cam and header on it, and after rebuilding and properly jetting the carb it runs fantastic now. I do plan to pull the drivetrain however pretty soon to clean, paint and polish under the hood.

After that I will get into the interior and redo the seats with a mix of original vinyl and suede. Im going to gut it all first and remove the old sound deadener and replace it with dynamat. The seats will be mk2 supra seats, but otherwise Im going to try to retain the factory look but with modern materials. I plan to do some custom work on the dash and gauges and console to accomidate a modern head unit. Im going to color convert to red LED lighting inside as well.

Body wise Im going with earlier version "smiley" bumper replicas in fiberglass and at that time Im going FG hood, rear deck lid, chin spoiler and tail spoiler.


After that, depending on my interest and budget a motor swap to a modern I4 might take place. I am considering a variety of drivetrains including the SR20, 3SGTE, 4AGZE or even an F20C. Fall back plans could be as mild as a hybrid 22/20R with dual side drafts or maybe a 22RTE. But with my car weighing in at 2400lbs or so, wet, I wont need that much power to have alot of fun! My goal is a mild "resto-mod" that is safe and fun to drive while not breaking my bank to do it.
 

Facime

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Jun 1, 2006
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OK...So, I have completed phase 1 of the project and Im pleased with how it turned out. This Time I have a few pics to help tell the story.


Phase 1 was to be the "streetworthy" phase. When I got the car the motor ran like dogshit. It had a huge off idle stumble and surged and bucked at cruise. I checked and repaired as neccessary the standard stuff like points, plugs, cap, timing, vac leaks, etc. but the problem was still there, and in fact I might have made it a little worse. One Redline rebuild and jet kit for the weber later, the motor runs fantastic.

That put me onto the real meat of pahse 1 which was the steering, suspension and brakes. Driving the car to Corvallis from Springfield after I bought it was what I refer to as Mr Toad's Wild Ride. The steering was loose with as much as 1/4 turn of freeplay in the box and the brakes made all kinds of funny sounds and would jerk you to the shoulder with a hard enough stab of the pedal.

Basically I ripped everything out and assessed from there and decided with the exception of most of the steering hard parts I would just replace everything. Here is what it looked like part of the way through deconstruction:

DSCF2769.jpg


Strut rods and sway bar also came out as did the remainder of the steering gear for cleaning and painting.

Control arms before:
DSCF2774.jpg


ready for paint:
DSCF2778.jpg


painted and ready for new bushings: (I kept the ball joints as there was nothing wrong with them and I simply re-greased them)
DSCF2787.jpg


If there is one thing I am nervous about its another (obviously amature) mechanics brake work. The pads looked to be at 75% or so and the rear shoes were 90% or more but I found one of the springs in the back in the wrong place and it was rubbing on the axle shaft and the front rotors looked like they had been cooked in a grease fire so I just replaced it all. The wheel bearings were the only thing salvageable so I cleaned and repacked those and put in new seals.

The calipers were cleaned, and rebuilt and I took the opportunity to smooth the castings a little:
DSCF2780.jpg



I also replaced the strut rods and bushings which were improperly installed with severely frozen nuts. Sway bar bushings and end links are also new, as are all the soft hydraulic hoses. New wheel cylinders, shoes and drums were installed out back. I used stock parts in most cases as this is intended to be a daily driven street car with more "resto" than "mod". The only real "mod" parts are the springs and the RCA's

I admit I didnt really document with that many pictures the process along the way, but here is the end result:

DSCF2803.jpg

DSCF2807.jpg



Ride height on the King Springs (I have no idea on spring rates, but let me say, with just KYB GR2's in the tubes, this thing is rock hard):
DSCF2808.jpg

DSCF2810.jpg



Side note: Jody the shop dog complained alot about the working conditions until I fired up the woodstove. I caught her snoring away a couple times after that.
DSCF2789.jpg



NEXT: Phase 2 - Engine bay: Pull the motor, clean/polish/paint as needed. Clean up several ugly wiring issues. Another "more resto than mod" phase.
 

Mk3runner

Supramania Contributor
Nov 19, 2006
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a f series motor would interesting in a car that size. But I'd keep it yota. Just for WTFs something besides the 20r would be nice.
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
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broke a valve spring coming back from centrailia and bent the valve. Head is being rebuilt now. project is nearing the end of what i can afford to do with it. Gonna have to sell it and move on.
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
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what it looks like now:

DSCF2825.jpg




pics of the carnage:

DSCF2832.JPG


DSCF2837.JPG


DSCF2838.JPG




Im going to do a little match porting while I have it all apart and some cleaning and polishing under the hood.
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
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lol, yes, yes it does.



Machine shop called, head is warped on the cam side. They said they could straighten it, then its getting a full valve job, surface, match port, and all new springs (replace as a set is a general rule). I could not afford new oversized valves or anything too radical on it. Wouldnt really be much point for such a low HP application anyway. Head should be good for another 100k miles though.