My rebuild :D
- Thread starter Blackdawg
- Start date
CyFi6;1659865 said:UnfortunatelyFeel the block surface where it meets the cover, do you feel a step? If there is, your head is being held off of the block by that much, reducing clamping on the gasket where it matters. You are supposed to have it bolted to the block when it gets machined, but if you have forgotten you can measure the deck and figure out how much to get machined off of it.
so if it is smooth do i need to have it done?
im totally bummed by this info but glad i have you guys to tell me haha its weird after 2 years of reading how to do it i never once saw this bit of info anywhere.
and i guess i'll just tear her down again..poop :'(
---------- Post added at 05:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:49 PM ----------
Okay guys so can i just take off the plate and then file it down myself and polish it and as long as its lower then the block it'll be fine? or does it have to be flush?
Unofrtunately this info isn't in the TSRM, as technically Toyota does not want you to refinish the block deck, and says to replace the block instead.IBoughtASupra;1659915 said:
Blackdawg;1659964 said:
You cannot file it if you want to fix it properly, the head gasket seals on the block deck and on the timing cover, so it must be basically perfectly flush. You said it was a smooth transition though from the block deck to the top of the timing cover? How much was machined off the block? I notice the block has an interesting finish on it, almost like some kind of abrasive was used on it?
CyFi6;1660002 said:
do you mean before i painted it? im not really sure. as far as i know it was hot tanked and that was it.
but yes i will fix the bolt in the motor and also be gettin this machined correctly.
again thank you all VERY much for noticing this. my car owes you all
Blackdawg;1660313 said:do you mean before i painted it? im not really sure. as far as i know it was hot tanked and that was it.
but yes i will fix the bolt in the motor and also be gettin this machined correctly.
again thank you all VERY much for noticing this. my car owes you all
Did you call DriftMotion and ask about the ARP Mains not fitting right? Aaron will answer your questions with no problem.
Blackdawg;1660313 said:do you mean before i painted it? im not really sure. as far as i know it was hot tanked and that was it.
but yes i will fix the bolt in the motor and also be gettin this machined correctly.
again thank you all VERY much for noticing this. my car owes you all
If you didn't get the block decked, you don't need to fix that issue. You said there was no step, so in that case the timing cover is already flat with the block. You should have gotten the block decked, though, if you are using an MLS type head gasket. You will be fine though if you are using a stock type gasket and the block deck checked out strait and flat.
IBoughtASupra;1660464 said:
yes! well i contacted him about something else and sent him a link to this thread and he read it and told me.
I guess there are two ARP bolts and i was suppose to use them on the main the the oil pump didnt fit by. but instead i had them installed in them in the middle.
The red circled ones need to go where the green circle is...damn :: angry :: my mistake.
---------- Post added at 11:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 AM ----------
CyFi6;1660478 said:
No i did get the block decked. sorry i was just askin if it was smooth if i had to. but no its not smooth. you can feel a small lip on it. its definalty a few thousands or hundredths off
Blackdawg;1660481 said:yes! well i contacted him about something else and sent him a link to this thread and he read it and told me.
I guess there are two ARP bolts and i was suppose to use them on the main the the oil pump didnt fit by. but instead i had them installed in them in the middle.
The red circled ones need to go where the green circle is...damn :: angry :: my mistake.
---------- Post added at 11:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 AM ----------
No i did get the block decked. sorry i was just askin if it was smooth if i had to. but no its not smooth. you can feel a small lip on it. its definalty a few thousands or hundredths off
I knew they fixed it, that is why I told you to call. Good you got it figured out.
If you didn't lap the block, how is it uneven? That is weird....maybe the previous owner did..
IBoughtASupra;1660623 said:
Well if they took any material off while cleaning it. That could easily cause a lip. Not big but its still a lip.
Blackdawg;1660703 said:
I am talking about the block. Take everything to the machine shop and I am sure they can make it even.
The above mistakes are why I advocate the Mentor approach to building a 7M, it's not an overly complex engine but there are quite a few stumbling blocks along the way that seem to catch people out.
IJ.;1660938 said:
well id kill to live in a place that has like 5 of you guys close by so i could just ask you and come watch over my shoulder and help me. But i dont. The biggest help i have is my dads best friend and he is a motor head. but strictly fords. he has a BADASS mustang BOSS 351 that is pushing some serious power. But i odiously dont own a mustang so it all kinda new to him too. But im glad i am learning even if it is over the internet.
i just want to do it right but i know im going to screw something up like i just did. hopefully i can minimize those mistakes tho...Hey guys. I have some new pics. Like stated above everything that was problematic is now fixed
redone oil drain
redone oil lines with 90 degree AN fittinges..just on loosly
CPS in! and the coolant bypass hose
painted cover...thinking of leaving it off tho..
beautiful
redone oil drain
redone oil lines with 90 degree AN fittinges..just on loosly
CPS in! and the coolant bypass hose
painted cover...thinking of leaving it off tho..
beautiful
A few question,
Is your compressor housing on loosely, it look like that in the pictures? It is okay for now but remember to tighten it before starting the engine.
Is that a new waterpump? If not, why are you not using on? Get one from DriftMotion. I believe it is only 55 dollars.
You should paint the timing cover in aluminum. Clean and sand it just like you did with the other parts, prime it and then paint it with aluminum engine paint. You will like it like that.
Lastly, how come you didn't polish any of the thermostat housing parts? If you want to paint them, you still can. I did paint the whole thermostat section on the 7M with it bolted on the engine when it was on the stand.
Just clean it with a cloth soaked in gas or break cleaner, let it dry. Get some masking tape with newspaper and plastic, tape everything around it including wires and sensors, basically everything that will not be painted and then start painting.
It will look a lot nicer, trust me. Make sure to get high temperature aluminum and primer. Duplicolor Engine paint works very well.
Is your compressor housing on loosely, it look like that in the pictures? It is okay for now but remember to tighten it before starting the engine.
Is that a new waterpump? If not, why are you not using on? Get one from DriftMotion. I believe it is only 55 dollars.
You should paint the timing cover in aluminum. Clean and sand it just like you did with the other parts, prime it and then paint it with aluminum engine paint. You will like it like that.
Lastly, how come you didn't polish any of the thermostat housing parts? If you want to paint them, you still can. I did paint the whole thermostat section on the 7M with it bolted on the engine when it was on the stand.
Just clean it with a cloth soaked in gas or break cleaner, let it dry. Get some masking tape with newspaper and plastic, tape everything around it including wires and sensors, basically everything that will not be painted and then start painting.
It will look a lot nicer, trust me. Make sure to get high temperature aluminum and primer. Duplicolor Engine paint works very well.
