More Steering Angle for FREE

jesse_rc1991

New Member
May 29, 2012
169
0
0
austin
I like this idea better than cutting and rewelding the knuckle arm, to me it seems more "safe." If someone would make, or cnc, a knuckle with a shorter arm and angle it in toward the engine just slightly to avoid the slight rotor contact i feel it would be perfect. I fear though it may be in the thousands if it were ever made, but i would still try to save money and buy it because it would be worth it since people spend thousands on rims anyway. I may try this myself later but i will try to get some spare knuckles first just to test and maybe drill the hole slightly inside more to see if the rotor contact would be minimized. What i would also be worried about is a alignment shop noticing the modification and refuseing to align it with the fear of them being held responsible if something goes wrong
 
Aug 24, 2009
126
0
16
Nirvana
jesse_rc1991;2049327 said:
What i would also be worried about is a alignment shop noticing the modification and refusing to align it with the fear of them being held responsible if something goes wrong

Just grind off the original post, make it look legit and rub some dirt on it.. lol They prob. won't even notice.

Maybe someone like IJ will chime in on the effectiveness of using a stepped drill bit to make the tapered hole. I'm not sure myself.
 

Prism11

New Member
I personally would not use a stepped drill bit to make the taper. Even IF the steps of the bit created the correct taper to match the taper of the tie rod, the steps are only giving a few contact points, and will eventually deform from the lateral loads. Its much better to have a full contact surface for the tie rod to press against.
 

jesse_rc1991

New Member
May 29, 2012
169
0
0
austin
Prism11;2049445 said:
the steps are only giving a few contact points, and will eventually deform from the lateral loads. Its much better to have a full contact surface for the tie rod to press against.
it would but you could use some marking compound on the tie rod, insert and tighten it, and remove it to see where its contacing the bevel inside and make adjustments this is where the spare knuckle somes in handy as you can do this off car with a spare tie rod. plus the castle nut is made to prevent the nut coming too loose. im not saying it will support a full lateral load for extended period of time but i would imagine you either feel some play in the steering or hear it loose by then. Just want to add to try at your own risk not saying that this is made to withstand what the engineers made it for.
 

te72

Classifieds Moderator
Staff member
Mar 26, 2006
6,602
2
36
40
WHYoming
"The Mk3 is well known for having terrible, terrible steering angle, especially for a rwd car."

That sure is a funny way of saying "The Mk3 has an excellent double wishbone suspension designed for good geometry rather than using a cheap, compact strut that compromises handling," if you ask me...

That said, I get what you're doing man. Why not run a different swaybar, or without? It's getting in the way of angle after all... oh wait, then you'd hit the lower control arm, better get rid of that too! Seriously though, what happens when you rub a hole in your tire or rim when you have nothing to STOP the wheel from contacting another part of the car that it shouldn't? Massive tire failure, that's what.

What happens when the knuckle or tie rod fails because it's fatigued? I know of at least one person on this forum who knows all too well. Spoiler alert: it's not pretty, and neither are you when you inevitably crash. :(

Not trying to piss in your cheerios here, just saying that the criticism of a Supra's steering angle is on the same level as criticizing the Miata for not having more horsepower. Both are missing the point of the car's intended function. If you want a car with lots of angle, buy something with a strut front suspension. Not like there aren't pretty much every car that isn't a Supra for options, after all. :)