Having problems with the maft pro reading the LC-1 wideband. Although I know the wideband works because when hooked up to the labtop directly it will read it. Any one have advice??
maft pro problems
- Thread starter pimptrizkit
- Start date
red 12v switched power,
blue connected to ground with white & green wire tied into it,
black going to the led, then the switched connected to it before ground,
analog 1 yellow, is hooked up to the ecu on the ox wire, and analog 2 is the brown wire hooked up to the maft pro through the orange wire.
every thing was working legit i hooked up the yellow wire to ox, and fixed the led i had it grounded wrong so it wouldn't flash and show it was operational but the maft pro read the signal fine,
i fixed the ground issue, it worked on the maft pro for probaly only 30 minutes after words then shows no signal.
what gets meeh is, i hooked up the ox wire to analog one, it goes rich,
and the maft pro was reading, it was showing 7/8 and then crapped out,
i hooked up the laptop and monitor the a/f using logworks, and it was reading some where around 12 a/f, i leaned the main scale out 20 percent, barely got the logworks to climb to 14's, 30% pushed it into the 15's,
i have held the right buttons on the maft pro, re-set the settings, then re-set her up, i adjusted my fuel pressure to 25vac 35 no vac. and i pulled the ecu efi fuse
i have tried to re-programe the analog out put's, but the soft wear doesn't have any conformation saying it's ben changed, i just can tell that the programe button doesn't become clickable after making a change.
i have the lc-1 reset to factory defaults, analog 2 reading wideband and simulated narrow band analog 1,
blue connected to ground with white & green wire tied into it,
black going to the led, then the switched connected to it before ground,
analog 1 yellow, is hooked up to the ecu on the ox wire, and analog 2 is the brown wire hooked up to the maft pro through the orange wire.
every thing was working legit i hooked up the yellow wire to ox, and fixed the led i had it grounded wrong so it wouldn't flash and show it was operational but the maft pro read the signal fine,
i fixed the ground issue, it worked on the maft pro for probaly only 30 minutes after words then shows no signal.
what gets meeh is, i hooked up the ox wire to analog one, it goes rich,
and the maft pro was reading, it was showing 7/8 and then crapped out,
i hooked up the laptop and monitor the a/f using logworks, and it was reading some where around 12 a/f, i leaned the main scale out 20 percent, barely got the logworks to climb to 14's, 30% pushed it into the 15's,
i have held the right buttons on the maft pro, re-set the settings, then re-set her up, i adjusted my fuel pressure to 25vac 35 no vac. and i pulled the ecu efi fuse
i have tried to re-programe the analog out put's, but the soft wear doesn't have any conformation saying it's ben changed, i just can tell that the programe button doesn't become clickable after making a change.
i have the lc-1 reset to factory defaults, analog 2 reading wideband and simulated narrow band analog 1,
pimptrizkit said:
led?
http://www.fullthrottletech.com/showthread.php?t=2223
pimptrizkit said:
take the MAFT pro out of the equation, run off the stock AFM (if you still have it). sort out the LC-1 issue first...
light emitting diode the calibration wire uses along with the momentary switch to do a free air calibration
well i have it hooked up just like the diagram shows,
it was a little different, i had the white wire tired in with the blue and the green connected to the pro's purple wire it all being grounded,
but now it's correct, but still not working,
i think my analog 1 is working , but im not sure of the voltage i should have the lc-1 to mimick the stock o2?
right now i have it set 1.011 volt 15.01 and .1 volt at 14.2
let me know if i should have that changed..
tomorrow (friday) im goign to swap out put's and see if i can get either ou put to do any thing for me,
i think i will disconect it from all power to ..
well i have it hooked up just like the diagram shows,
it was a little different, i had the white wire tired in with the blue and the green connected to the pro's purple wire it all being grounded,
but now it's correct, but still not working,
i think my analog 1 is working , but im not sure of the voltage i should have the lc-1 to mimick the stock o2?
right now i have it set 1.011 volt 15.01 and .1 volt at 14.2
let me know if i should have that changed..
tomorrow (friday) im goign to swap out put's and see if i can get either ou put to do any thing for me,
i think i will disconect it from all power to ..
well i swaped the analog out put;s and re-porgramed it, with out solving my issue, i have green wire to maft pro purple, white to blue, to ground, calibration wire hooked up and also have the power hooked to a fused line, all connections are soldered.
is there a way i can test to see if the pro's orange wire is reading? i was thinking an AA, would show 1.2 volts? which should show rich if i remember right... but not as rich as 7/8 that it's reading..while the logworks is readin good afr's
is there a way i can test to see if the pro's orange wire is reading? i was thinking an AA, would show 1.2 volts? which should show rich if i remember right... but not as rich as 7/8 that it's reading..while the logworks is readin good afr's
LC-1 outputs:
Analog 1: yellow
Analog 2: brown
analog ground: green
remember the MAFT pro measures the WB differentially. i.e. if you don't have the MAFT pro's purple wire connected, it won't read anything.
the proper way to use analog 1 on the LC-1 would be MAFT pro orange wire to the LC-1's yellow wire and the MAFT pro's purple wire to the LC-1's green wire. for analog 2, simply switch the LC-1's brown wire for the yellow wire.
Analog 1: yellow
Analog 2: brown
analog ground: green
remember the MAFT pro measures the WB differentially. i.e. if you don't have the MAFT pro's purple wire connected, it won't read anything.
the proper way to use analog 1 on the LC-1 would be MAFT pro orange wire to the LC-1's yellow wire and the MAFT pro's purple wire to the LC-1's green wire. for analog 2, simply switch the LC-1's brown wire for the yellow wire.
thats how i have it, i have tried both analog out put's, no difference, which way should i have them programed?
there are 4 boxes left to right i have my set up like 0 / .5 next line, 5 /1.523
i assumed that the correct way to have them programed,. for the wide band,
i did as much as swaping in my brother's maft pro to see if i have a problem with the unit it's self,
all arrows are pointting towards fried analog out put's.
this really makes tunning hard..
i have been having to switch from logworks to tunerpro and not being able to watch it like before sucks..
i found i was running on the lean side (high 16/low 17) i thought a good lean cruise was closer to high 15 low 16.. while cruising after getting the wide band to hook up, altho i got almost 30mpg to centralia today on a 210 mile round trip..
edit--
im now having problems connecting to the lc-1,
im going to go out one last time and move all my grounds around, i read a few good pages on the innovative forums, and i hope it will be fixed soon
there are 4 boxes left to right i have my set up like 0 / .5 next line, 5 /1.523
i assumed that the correct way to have them programed,. for the wide band,
i did as much as swaping in my brother's maft pro to see if i have a problem with the unit it's self,
all arrows are pointting towards fried analog out put's.
this really makes tunning hard..
i have been having to switch from logworks to tunerpro and not being able to watch it like before sucks..
i found i was running on the lean side (high 16/low 17) i thought a good lean cruise was closer to high 15 low 16.. while cruising after getting the wide band to hook up, altho i got almost 30mpg to centralia today on a 210 mile round trip..
edit--
im now having problems connecting to the lc-1,
im going to go out one last time and move all my grounds around, i read a few good pages on the innovative forums, and i hope it will be fixed soon
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I cant even get my light to turn on on my lc-1 does the light have to be wired one way or does it matter. meaning does the black light wire have to be toward ground or can the red wire be toward ground.
drjonez said:
I must have totally missed that it was in the intructions and trust me I was reading over the instructions five times before I did anything to make sure I was doing it right the light was the only thing I did my mistake.
pimptrizkit said:
You need to keep the blue wire separate from green and white. They should not go to the same ground point. Look for the bit that talks about "analog ground noise" in the LC-1 manual.
On that note, I'm looking for a good ground spot for the blue wire myself right now. I was thinking about E2 on the tccs, but I think I'll be safest to just connect it to one of the screws on the big metal pipe behind the dash.
Edit: Working fine with the blue wire grounded to the pipe (alone).
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hey man did you resolve this issue??? I am having the same problem. Car starts up fine and idles great for a while. After about 10 minutes of idling the AFR signal to the maftpro cuts out and i get the two little -- in the sensor monitor on the maftpro. But my AFR guage still reads the AFR, it fluctuates from 12-18 afr and eventually dies. Now i cant get a signal to read on the maftpro. But i know there is a signal there because my guage is still reading right. I have not messed w/ the programming on the xd16 or the lc1.
I have the brown analog 2 wire hooked up to the orange wb input on the maftpro, i checked the connection twice already and it was fine before and is fine now.
yellow analog 1 is tapped off.
purple wire from maftpro is grounded w/ the white and blue wires from the LC-1, ^ i will find a seperate ground for the blue wire based on hecklers post though.
I have gone through and configured the maftpro per the quick setup instructions included but some are not exactly identical. I am running 4.8 and as some have found, theres no documentation for it.
barometer is set to read @ key on.
afr source is set to 1 (lc1)
and is set to speed density.
What would cause the maftpro to suddenly cut off the signal from the lc-1, it ran for a good 10 minutes and a stoich 14.6-14.8 AFR for a good while before the AFR signal just "dissapeared", Will redo my ground wires here in a sec but what could cause this?
Loaded up a bin onto tunerpro but when i check the values for my settings they dont read anyting , everything is set to 0. I've uploaded the bin from the emulator to tuner pro and it says "upload successfull but im not reading the individual values for my settings.
going to go out and try to finish more loose ends.
I have the brown analog 2 wire hooked up to the orange wb input on the maftpro, i checked the connection twice already and it was fine before and is fine now.
yellow analog 1 is tapped off.
purple wire from maftpro is grounded w/ the white and blue wires from the LC-1, ^ i will find a seperate ground for the blue wire based on hecklers post though.
I have gone through and configured the maftpro per the quick setup instructions included but some are not exactly identical. I am running 4.8 and as some have found, theres no documentation for it.
barometer is set to read @ key on.
afr source is set to 1 (lc1)
and is set to speed density.
What would cause the maftpro to suddenly cut off the signal from the lc-1, it ran for a good 10 minutes and a stoich 14.6-14.8 AFR for a good while before the AFR signal just "dissapeared", Will redo my ground wires here in a sec but what could cause this?
Loaded up a bin onto tunerpro but when i check the values for my settings they dont read anyting , everything is set to 0. I've uploaded the bin from the emulator to tuner pro and it says "upload successfull but im not reading the individual values for my settings.
going to go out and try to finish more loose ends.
american jebus, mine did some thing similar,
except i had it running for about a week and then it pegged rich,then after awhile go to --, car ran great still, and i checked the laptop and the laptop still reads correctly,
i have been busy enough not to be able to change the blue and white wire's im crosing my finger's on that will fix my issues.
i had even done so much as testing my maft pro in my brothers car and the afr read's in his car, so my pro isn't messed up, and i tightened the pin's on the connector a bit thinking i might have a loose connection,
the next thing im going to try is some electrical cleaner
except i had it running for about a week and then it pegged rich,then after awhile go to --, car ran great still, and i checked the laptop and the laptop still reads correctly,
i have been busy enough not to be able to change the blue and white wire's im crosing my finger's on that will fix my issues.
i had even done so much as testing my maft pro in my brothers car and the afr read's in his car, so my pro isn't messed up, and i tightened the pin's on the connector a bit thinking i might have a loose connection,
the next thing im going to try is some electrical cleaner
upon further inspection and digging i got hit in the face w/ the reality that the innovate lc-1 harness is missing the green analog ground wire.
Did they change it? or did i just get the 1 lc-1 w/ an incomplete harness?? anyway around this? Im assuming this is my problem considering it is the ANALOG ground and im not getting that signal in the pro. But for some reason it DID work and send out an analog signal for a good 15 minutes.?
Did they change it? or did i just get the 1 lc-1 w/ an incomplete harness?? anyway around this? Im assuming this is my problem considering it is the ANALOG ground and im not getting that signal in the pro. But for some reason it DID work and send out an analog signal for a good 15 minutes.?
The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source and
although these grounds are of the same source, the BLUE wire should be wired separate
from the WHITE wire to avoid analog ground noise. Optimally, these (and any other MTS
device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. When this
isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple
lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal “noise.” When
possible, soldering is always better than crimping.
dude i've read the thing over and over.
I HAD it wired w/ the white and blue on the same lug, it worked fine. then it just stopped.
i REDID the grounds as stated word for word in the manual. recalibrated the whole thing all over again. no signal to maftpro. Two seperate grounding lugs on the frame bar behind the dash. 1 lug w/ ground connecting white and purple maftpro wire. and separate lug for blue heater ground on the same bar.
loaded up the program interface on the lc1, reset to factory, analog 2 is still the one i need to use. so im still using it.
everything has pretty much been Re-wired word for word from the manual.
and no signal. guage reads fine but its the maftpro that isnt getting this damn signal.
and yes, i HAVE BEEN READING.
although these grounds are of the same source, the BLUE wire should be wired separate
from the WHITE wire to avoid analog ground noise. Optimally, these (and any other MTS
device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. When this
isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple
lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal “noise.” When
possible, soldering is always better than crimping.
dude i've read the thing over and over.
I HAD it wired w/ the white and blue on the same lug, it worked fine. then it just stopped.
i REDID the grounds as stated word for word in the manual. recalibrated the whole thing all over again. no signal to maftpro. Two seperate grounding lugs on the frame bar behind the dash. 1 lug w/ ground connecting white and purple maftpro wire. and separate lug for blue heater ground on the same bar.
loaded up the program interface on the lc1, reset to factory, analog 2 is still the one i need to use. so im still using it.
everything has pretty much been Re-wired word for word from the manual.
and no signal. guage reads fine but its the maftpro that isnt getting this damn signal.
and yes, i HAVE BEEN READING.
1. the XD-16 gets its signal from the LC-1's serial bus...it's not an analog V.
2. check out what the LC-1 says each output should be.
3. if you're having problems w/the MAFT pro reading the LC-1's analog output, be sure the MAFT pro's gnd is the same as the LC-1's ground- i.e. ground ALL wires together @ the same point. if that still doesn't work, try tying the MAFT pro's purple wire (WB input gnd) to the same gnd point.
2. check out what the LC-1 says each output should be.
3. if you're having problems w/the MAFT pro reading the LC-1's analog output, be sure the MAFT pro's gnd is the same as the LC-1's ground- i.e. ground ALL wires together @ the same point. if that still doesn't work, try tying the MAFT pro's purple wire (WB input gnd) to the same gnd point.