I had them, they were way too soft for any spirited driving, they were designed for drag racing. If you take a sharp corner with any kind of bump the tire actually hits the top of the wheel well!ma71supraturbo said:HKS hipermax II's will give a stock-like ride. Well, more BMW than boat. Definitely not a set of coilovers to use for a track car, but very comfortable
bigaaron 10/22/06 said:The spring rate numbers mentioned seem to keep dropping, but I could have sworn I was told that they were 18k and 14k or something like that and I remember saying "damn, that is going to ride terribly harsh on the street". If they were actually 14k and 10k it would not be harsh.
The positive thing is that even if you buy a set of Eibach springs for the D2's with the spring rate you want from HPF you still would end up spending less then most of the other coilovers on the market.
that's called "riding on the bump stops" with cheap coilovers.89MkIII said:The bounce comes at high speed, where you are jarred around in your seat and actually feel like you are loosing control. There is a lot of dampening adjustments that can be made, but nothing seems to help w/ opening it up on less than perfect roads/highways. city speeds are fine, not to stiff or bouncy.
vasponger said:i just had older HKS coilovers on my s14, 8kg and 6kg...
i was looking at the megan racing track coilovers and theyre like 18kg and 16kg ive never seen such a high spring rate
vasponger said:gotcha, anyone know of any coilovers around the 14kg-16kg range
how easy is the install
Johnnieee said:The D2's are excellent quality, with less unsprung weight than stock components. Definitely they are more oriented for track use, and not anything close to a stock ride.
Stock spring rates for a MKIII are 461 ft/lbs front, and 215 ft/lbs rear. The D2's are shipped with 671 ft/lbs (12 kg/mm) front, and 447 ft/lbs (8 kg/mm) rear. Even with the minimum shock setting, these spring rates are quite punishing for a street car, particularly the rears.
Eibach Pro's are a progressive spring, fronts are 343-628 ft/lbs, and rears are 126-257 ft/lbs. Coupled with Tokico or KYB shocks you can obtain an uprated stock ride, sufficiently stiff to provide much better control, ride and handling.
(snip)
John
I'd have a hard time choosing between megan street and tein basic, but you cannot compare it to the Flex or HA. The valving on those upper-end teins are really good.TaSe said:Good reading. I'm leaning towards Megan, Tein Flex, Tein HA. If i get either of the Tein i will have the EDFC with it. But i'm not sure what to go with. Megan or Tein.
mattjk said:I'd have a hard time choosing between megan street and tein basic, but you cannot compare it to the Flex or HA. The valving on those upper-end teins are really good.
mattjk said:Don't get me wrong, megans are nice for the money, but they don't put that much time into getting the valving right, so the ride isn't that good, and is a bit choppy.
I installed megan streets on my wife's wrx, and I had tein flex on my wrx. Out of the box, the flex felt like a bmw with the sports suspension. Firm, but never bouncey or choppy. The megans on the other hand was horrible. I had to go to a light spring front and rear because the damper just did not match well with the springs. Too much compression damping and not enough rebound. I have it set pretty nicely now with the softer springs... but I shouldn't HAVE TO have done that.
TaSe said:I want coilovers, sway bars, end links, traction arms, bushings. I want a top of the line suspension for a decent price. Decent HP and i'm happy.
ma71supraturbo said:I would caution you against throwing suspension parts at your car and expecting them to magically jive. There are countless examples of people with top of the line everything coming short on the track to someone with just a few well-tuned suspension parts. (Just look at the Super Street Time attack results from Nov 8th).
If I were building a track car today, here is where I would start:
Sound Hardtop chassis w/ typical weight reduction & race seat(s)
18kg/mm front, 12kg/mm rear springs on highly adjustable coilovers
Stock front sway bar
No rear sway bar
Poly or Nylon Bushings (if you can still find the nylon)
Roll cage (at the minimum, a MDC harness bar)
lightweight 17x10 wheels w/ appropriate rubber for your needs (bonus if the wheels can clear a 14" BBK). I'd recommend running the same size tires front & rear too
Front @ Rear bbk. Temporarily turn off ABS (unplug the wires to the actuator) and make some threshold braking stops. Adjust proportioning. Plug ABS back in...
Run the stock LSD until it wears out. Then either get a cusco (or the like) and spend a ton of time adjusting the preload -- or spend some $$ and get a custom helical to fit (jza70 torsens have proven to be weak, and the Toyota truck helicals don't quite fit).
Avoid buying suspension links & arms unless you:
a) need the adjustability
b) need the strength
Most, if not all, of the various adjustable arms are heavier than stock. We want to keep unsprung weight down, and we've already increased it with the big brakes (hopefully the larger 17" wheels are light enough to offset their size increase from the heavy sawblades).
Now, if you're not building a track car then disregard everything above.