Supracentral;1255102 said:
Correct!
I used to drive my car year round until 2001.
South Dakota, Black Hill snow! Snow tires. The supra actuall drove nicely! Right tires and the car will run ok.
Limit of Daily Driver HP??
- Thread starter Bri-Guy
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Correct!
I used to drive my car year round until 2001.
South Dakota, Black Hill snow! Snow tires. The supra actuall drove nicely! Right tires and the car will run ok.
me im shooting for about 350 400 whp just so i can have some fun room but it will still be controllable
figgie;1255161 said:
Been driving 10 years zero accidents. Hasnt gotten me killed yet.
I had zero problems driving an 86 camaro with a mild gm performance 350 crate engine in the snow.
So in the end you can drive anything you want and the limit of hp on the street is your balls. What you do with it is upto your brain. But the limit of it is in your balls!
The generally rule of thumb is anything over 600whp is dangerous on teh street, its basically the limit of adhesion, they dont make tires that will hook up on the street without prep. Although ive seen 980whp TTcobras, drive around, and ive seen 1000+whp supras cruise around with no issues at all. it all depends on how far you let your foot get into it with a turbo car. You can have 1200whp and it wont matter at all if you keep it under 3K rpms.
You shouldnt be asking what hp level, but what clutch, and suspension level can you handle daily... An unsprung 6puck is going to suck without traffic.. however too stiff of a suspension setup will make you hate anything but highways.
You shouldnt be asking what hp level, but what clutch, and suspension level can you handle daily... An unsprung 6puck is going to suck without traffic.. however too stiff of a suspension setup will make you hate anything but highways.
Obviously how you treat the gas pedal has a big impact of how much power can be handled on a daily basis.
I'm wondering at what point do you start to bump up against the threshold of certain stock items, i.e. clutch, pistons, etc. And are there certain items such as 6 puck clutch, forged pistons, cams etc. that shave to be upgraded in order to reliably support certain HP levels, but does the introduction of some of these items make it so that a car isn't really a daily driver (meaning can be treated, and driven just the same as stock)?
A good test is, if you have to give someone (wife/gf) special instructions on how to operate your car such as stiff/sticky clutch, additional warm up, or things like that.
I'm wondering at what point do you start to bump up against the threshold of certain stock items, i.e. clutch, pistons, etc. And are there certain items such as 6 puck clutch, forged pistons, cams etc. that shave to be upgraded in order to reliably support certain HP levels, but does the introduction of some of these items make it so that a car isn't really a daily driver (meaning can be treated, and driven just the same as stock)?
A good test is, if you have to give someone (wife/gf) special instructions on how to operate your car such as stiff/sticky clutch, additional warm up, or things like that.
This came about because I was talking with a guy and we were trying to figure out how much you could build up our cars to be sleepers (to our significant others). So kinda like, letting them know that we are doing a bit of work on it, but basically pretty stock like on appearance (except exhaust/some guages), and they wouldn't have any idea even if they drove it. So it would generally look and drive stock, but would be a 425 WHP beast once the boost was turned up and we went out on the road alone.
Just wondering how much one could get away with without letting someone really know that you spent BIG $ and significant mods.
I'm thinking that the stock PP/clutch is the thing that will limit the "sleeper" factor. But I don't know what the limit of the stock clutch is, or how noticable an upgraded PP with stock clutch disk would be as far as increased pedal stiffness.
Also, I won't lie, this would be helpful for myself as well, as I'd like to try to figure out how high my goals could be while still keeping my car in a form that would be easily drivable by the spouse. Keeping her interested in driving the car does help with the budget for the build, me thinks.
So would you think that stock clutch limit is 350WHPish and upgraded PP/stock clutch with slight increase in pedal pressure is 425WHPish?
I can't see that anything else would be a limiting factor, other than that I've read about the questions about forged pistons being not suited for everyday use (including) winters as they may be suited for additional warmup times vs stock.
Do you guys agree? Or are my assumptions way off? What am I missing/not considering?
Just wondering how much one could get away with without letting someone really know that you spent BIG $ and significant mods.
I'm thinking that the stock PP/clutch is the thing that will limit the "sleeper" factor. But I don't know what the limit of the stock clutch is, or how noticable an upgraded PP with stock clutch disk would be as far as increased pedal stiffness.
Also, I won't lie, this would be helpful for myself as well, as I'd like to try to figure out how high my goals could be while still keeping my car in a form that would be easily drivable by the spouse. Keeping her interested in driving the car does help with the budget for the build, me thinks.
So would you think that stock clutch limit is 350WHPish and upgraded PP/stock clutch with slight increase in pedal pressure is 425WHPish?
I can't see that anything else would be a limiting factor, other than that I've read about the questions about forged pistons being not suited for everyday use (including) winters as they may be suited for additional warmup times vs stock.
Do you guys agree? Or are my assumptions way off? What am I missing/not considering?
I DD my 6 puck clutch just fine, nobody else is able to drive it though (well, except for foreverpsycotic as he's the only one that didn't stall it)
Teach your spouse about letting the car warm up enough to boost. If it's an auto car it would be even easier with a built auto than with a manual car (ask IJ).
At the power level I'm at I could still be running the stock clutch, but I wanted something that would take abuse and be ready for more power. A simple BPU car like mine is damn fun to drive...
Teach your spouse about letting the car warm up enough to boost. If it's an auto car it would be even easier with a built auto than with a manual car (ask IJ).
At the power level I'm at I could still be running the stock clutch, but I wanted something that would take abuse and be ready for more power. A simple BPU car like mine is damn fun to drive...
6 puck with 3200 lb. PP & lightweight flywheel = wned: in stop in go traffic or pulling onto alignment machines.
wned: in stop in go traffic or pulling onto alignment machines.
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Mine is 470rwhp @23psi but most driving is done at 5psi with 23 reserved for playtime if I come across something fast.
TRAC makes it so much safer on true non R 35 series street tires and will save your life when you hit a crap surface unexpectedly.
TRAC makes it so much safer on true non R 35 series street tires and will save your life when you hit a crap surface unexpectedly.
The way I look at it for the supra is how much power you can make on pump gas while not having a laggy setup. I don't know about you all, but daily driving a car with $10 dollar per gallon gas is no fun for me.. Yeah you can have a very big turbo and maybe get 600rwhp on 93 octane with a nice setup, but at what RPM does the turbo make boost in the lower gears?
I personally like my GT35R that makes close to 500rwhp on pump, while having a nice powerband. Yeah, it spins like crazy in 1st and second in the cold, but it's easy to control and gets better in the warm weather.
I personally like my GT35R that makes close to 500rwhp on pump, while having a nice powerband. Yeah, it spins like crazy in 1st and second in the cold, but it's easy to control and gets better in the warm weather.
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grimreaper;1255351 said:6 puck with 3200 lb. PP & lightweight flywheel =
I'll never touch one of those pressure plates, I'll go multidisk or auto first...
Poodles;1255501 said:
i understand why, but for now it came on the car. When the motor comes out ill step up to multi disc. *crosses fingers, hits clutch bypass switch and starts car every morning*
I think the best daily wheel HP is 2 X the OEM crank HP so if you have the 7MGTE no more then 460.
1JZGTE ideal daily 560
2JZGTE ideal daily 640
Other things to calculate how much you put your foot into it budget supporting upgrades like brakes what the point of having a 900hp supra if you cant stop it using oem brakes.
Multiplate clutches make high hp drivable on the street.
Setting the boost controler conservitave for comuting managed with a good stand alone will actually give you better gas millage then tweek up the boost with race gas or meth then you get your full hp.
1JZGTE ideal daily 560
2JZGTE ideal daily 640
Other things to calculate how much you put your foot into it budget supporting upgrades like brakes what the point of having a 900hp supra if you cant stop it using oem brakes.
Multiplate clutches make high hp drivable on the street.
Setting the boost controler conservitave for comuting managed with a good stand alone will actually give you better gas millage then tweek up the boost with race gas or meth then you get your full hp.
I'm in the "all depends on the driver camp"
I know a guy that daily drove a rally car for a while (granted non-turbo) but it had a silly clutch, etc.
With snow tires, anything is possible
I know a guy that daily drove a rally car for a while (granted non-turbo) but it had a silly clutch, etc.
With snow tires, anything is possible
Yeah my N/A is FUN ON THE SNOW W/O SNOW TIRES N STOCK SAWBLADES!! But that's of course pedal control was the key, but when I hit it too hard (in the right places) then it was REAL FUN!! But if I had a turbo, I wouldn't drive it in the snow w/o snow tires in stock trim. But I say 400 or so hp would be good daily driven. My friend let me drive his Civic with a 6puck and stock pp and it's a little touchy until you get used to it. But I think our cars clutch pedals are tighter but easier to engage 1st gear. So a MK3 turbo w/6puck and HD PP would be annoying in traffic. Mabye stage 2 with Stock or HD PP would be better for street. And a boost controller is your BEST FRIEND!!
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