Let me see your trunks!

IwantMKIII

WVU MAEngineering
Jun 12, 2007
2,477
0
0
Perkasie, PA
my incomplete setup....... I'm still looking for some rubber flexible carpet trim for around the amp. The sub now has a black circular surround so you can't see the battery down there. Plexi goes over the amp as well. I'm also looking for some good pulsating (with the beat) neons/ preferably LEDS. I've also added a bass port since this.

this maintains stock cutout (shape of it anyway), its ability to flip up for easily controlling the amp if needed, jumping the battery, and also still allows use of targa holders :)

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vas85

SupraNut
Sep 29, 2006
391
0
0
Sydney, AU
Seen some great ideas guys, I had to put in my original tyre (which I think is the factory tyre spare untouched all 225 of her) as I haven't seen an Aus/JDM spec with flat rear carpet. Anywho here's mine;

This is my trunk as of current, took about 8 months to get it started as my neighbor's a busy man (I dont have this skill although I think now in the future I can be creative, but he's the audio engineer man not me hehe) Once we finalised the amp location I will then snuggly run the wiring hidden and nice tucked away so it's still a job in progress :) Current setup is replaced the 4"s at the front with the best 4" Pioneers I could get, Rear 6by9s are JVC CS-FX6902's, the AMP is a JVC AX-6604, and the sub which i'm ordering is a JBL 8" :)



I will have the amp remounted properly probably relocated, but that's where it is at the moment, it's a 4x100 watt rms amp with the 6by9s which are 100watt rms themselves. I have a 8inch sub im installing with two channels bridged in a fibreglass enclosure.

Here's a pic looking at the rear from the drivers door.


Here's where the sub is going with the fibreglass enclosure;
 
IwantMKIII;895700 said:
my incomplete setup....... I'm still looking for some rubber flexible carpet trim for around the amp. The sub now has a black circular surround so you can't see the battery down there. Plexi goes over the amp as well. I'm also looking for some good pulsating (with the beat) neons/ preferably LEDS. I've also added a bass port since this.

this maintains stock cutout (shape of it anyway), its ability to flip up for easily controlling the amp if needed, jumping the battery, and also still allows use of targa holders :)

1231072255am1.jpg

1231071806uw1.jpg

1231072219yz3.jpg

0101080022ax6.jpg

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I'm really confused with the Sub setup, it might be just me.
It looks like the cone is facing down, but I don't see anything that would isolate the front sound wave from the rear sound wave. The bass notes generated from front would cancel out the rear. Is there an opening at the front of the sub that is facing down or is it mounted against a flat board?
Crutchfiled info on sub enclosures
Box Design site

Then there is the second sub in the picture that is sitting on the carpet, what were you going to do with that?
A sub enclosure, sealed or ported, needs to be very solid so that the box does not vibrate or resonate creating unwanted sounds. Thie pictures look like the sub is supported only by 2 posts at each corner.
You did say this was un unfinished project, so maybe things look very different now.
 

IwantMKIII

WVU MAEngineering
Jun 12, 2007
2,477
0
0
Perkasie, PA
thelonerider;897736 said:
I'm really confused with the Sub setup, it might be just me.
It looks like the cone is facing down, but I don't see anything that would isolate the front sound wave from the rear sound wave. The bass notes generated from front would cancel out the rear. Is there an opening at the front of the sub that is facing down or is it mounted against a flat board?
Crutchfiled info on sub enclosures
Box Design site

Then there is the second sub in the picture that is sitting on the carpet, what were you going to do with that?
A sub enclosure, sealed or ported, needs to be very solid so that the box does not vibrate or resonate creating unwanted sounds. Thie pictures look like the sub is supported only by 2 posts at each corner.
You did say this was un unfinished project, so maybe things look very different now.


Like i said, its unfinished.....still is (cause im back at school and don't have tools)....i need different subs actually now, i recently discovered the top one was blown :aigo: . Also, the top sub i since fit a circular mounting piece to space between teh floor and woofer for proper excursion. The one recessed into the floor is using a high gloss painted, circular PVC tube i fit. Between the sub and amp towards the back of the hatch i fit another hole for an adjustable length port to catch the sound from the wheel well below. Surprisingly enough, with it still practically being a free air sub it sounds pretty good.

Right now im thinking of ditching the top sub all together and just getting one really good one that can move a lot of air (due to cost issues). Im not lookin for HUGE dB so a sealed enclosure will not be necessary
 
IwantMKIII;898024 said:
Like i said, its unfinished... ...the top sub i since fit a circular mounting piece to space it between the floor and woofer for proper excursion.
???? Proper excursion ????
IwantMKIII;898024 said:
The one recessed into the floor is using a high gloss painted, circular PVC tube I fit. Between the sub and amp towards the back of the hatch i fit another hole for an adjustable length port to catch the sound from the wheel well below. Surprisingly enough, with it still practically being a free air sub it sounds pretty good.
A free air setup does not allow for any air from the back of the woofer to reach the front. The proper way is to make a baffle board (the part you mount the woofer on) that seals one side from the other and uses the trunk as a box. Usually free air are done in sedans there a board seperates the trunk from the inside of the car behind the back seats. I can't see how a port would work in this type of setup.
IwantMKIII;898024 said:
Right now im thinking of ditching the top sub all together and just getting one really good one that can move a lot of air (due to cost issues). Im not lookin for HUGE dB so a sealed enclosure will not be necessary
A sealed enclosure is not as loud or efficient as a ported box, but can handle more power and has a smoother sound (does not boom). How are you going to measure the frequency of the port that you are "building as a sliding one". The tuning frequency of the port is important as you will want to cut off all frequencies below that note/frequency so that you do not destroy the woofer. Any notes being played below the "tuned frequency" of the port will cause the woofer to float or move back and forth very easily and not produce any sound but overheating the voice coil and destroying the woofer.
It sounds like your setup may be the reason you have blown woofers. but, hey, I'm only guessing based on the information in this thread and my interpretation of it. I strongly suggest you review the links I posted to make sure you follow and understand sub enclosure theory.
Good luck with your new setup.
 

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
1,836
0
0
Alberta
www.gyoba.com
pbasil1;908092 said:
Mmmmmm... Audison amp.

I just bought a pair of these, jut the newer generation, which I'll be installing this spring. The Audisons replace the Alpines which were stolen, though I also eBayed a pair of replacement Alpines as well. The old V12s were actually really good amps, before Alpine started turning them back into crap again. I'll find a good use for them, I'm sure.
 

STREETOPTIONZ

Toyota LOVER
Feb 1, 2008
10
0
0
Pennsylvania
www.myspace.com
Boost Lee;528241 said:
Haha. Well, to my surprise, it sounds amazingly clean!

I hooked it up last night, currently only 220wrms @ 4 ohms with 10 gauge wire (TINY), tuned the amp a little bit for about 5 minutes, and it's loud enough in car that it makes you feel clausterphobic because it's hard to breath, your hair gets tingly and your chest suddenly feels as if you've just ran around the block. :runaway:

It's honestly WAY to much for my needs...but for the price I get this new stuff for and it's always nice to have that extra oomph when needed, I'd say I'm completely impressed with it. :)

Our installers have convinced me to go ahead and get 4 gauge and run it at 2 ohms because 220wrms amp + 800wrms sub = ....barely over 1/4 its power potential.

I've always completely underestimated Power Acoustik because I looked at it as a "Flea market" type of speaker...but I am 100% thoroughly impressed. :icon_bigg

-Jeff

I know you said you know a lot about car audio......but you are aware under powering can fuck a speaker just as quickly as overpowering right?? Go big or go blown.
 

Sawbladz

Supramania Contributor
Mar 14, 2006
1,727
0
0
Oshawa, ON, CA
It extends down to the floor and out a bit for more total volume. It clears the sub and sounds great with the targa on or off. I plan to redo it with something almost identical to Swaq's because I don't like having a hacked up trunk. I was smart and bought a second rear carpet and sub floor before I cut anything.:)
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pbasil1

Fully built 1JZ project
Jan 30, 2008
402
0
0
Huntsville,AL
Dan_Gyoba;909477 said:
Mmmmmm... Audison amp.

I just bought a pair of these, jut the newer generation, which I'll be installing this spring. The Audisons replace the Alpines which were stolen, though I also eBayed a pair of replacement Alpines as well. The old V12s were actually really good amps, before Alpine started turning them back into crap again. I'll find a good use for them, I'm sure.
Ahh nice to see another audiophile that knows his stuff! Audison is amazing! I love this little amp. I plan to buy 2 more of these amps when i go active and convert my passive 2-ways to active 3-ways... i amp for lows, one for mids and one for tweets, plus i need a nice sound processor... This is all after i get the car rebuilt though :)

Right now im in the process of flush mounting my RE SE 12" in the spare tire well, its gonna be tough because the motor structure on these RE's is absolutely massive. But thats how RE got its reputation for some of the strongest bottom end bass in the world.

As the saying goes, "go big or go home"

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jcr2fast4u

7mlover
Jan 5, 2008
90
0
0
southern cali
Dan_Gyoba;909477 said:
Mmmmmm... Audison amp.

I just bought a pair of these, jut the newer generation, which I'll be installing this spring. The Audisons replace the Alpines which were stolen, though I also eBayed a pair of replacement Alpines as well. The old V12s were actually really good amps, before Alpine started turning them back into crap again. I'll find a good use for them, I'm sure.

reminds me of mines:icon_razz
 

steveyblack

Member
Jun 21, 2007
529
0
16
33
Nj
pbasil1;920127 said:
Ahh nice to see another audiophile that knows his stuff! Audison is amazing! I love this little amp. I plan to buy 2 more of these amps when i go active and convert my passive 2-ways to active 3-ways... i amp for lows, one for mids and one for tweets, plus i need a nice sound processor... This is all after i get the car rebuilt though :)

Right now im in the process of flush mounting my RE SE 12" in the spare tire well, its gonna be tough because the motor structure on these RE's is absolutely massive. But thats how RE got its reputation for some of the strongest bottom end bass in the world.

As the saying goes, "go big or go home"

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eh i like the older XXX's better, more affordable and gets you more bang for your buck.. once i have some money in order, ill be buying a Fi BTL, same guy designed the XXX made these subs...
 

pbasil1

Fully built 1JZ project
Jan 30, 2008
402
0
0
Huntsville,AL
steveyblack;925357 said:
eh i like the older XXX's better, more affordable and gets you more bang for your buck.. once i have some money in order, ill be buying a Fi BTL, same guy designed the XXX made these subs...
Yes, he has just paired up with Fi audio... Which is good for Fi. The Re's are still some of the best subs in the world IMHO. Nothing i have ever heard has has as deep a bottom end as RE's. And im comparing with my SE's...

I do plan to save up for a single MX though, so we will see whos on top when i buy a sub. I did strongly consider the Fi before i bout my RE's....