In-car removal of oil pan

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Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
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I'm giving up hope of having the new 7M built and installed before the snow flies.

As it sits, it's knocking. Pretty sure that it's the rod on #5, though it might be #4.

So here's my idea. Slap in new rod bearings so that I can maybe get some seat time in, and get the car around to a few places for some suspension work without completely trashing the motor that's in there. Before the snow hits, I have to have the car snugged away for the winter, and there are things that I'd like done before then. Unfortunately, with my bearings just being shipped this week, I doubt that I'll have even a long block ready before then.

My plan would be to unbolt motor mounts, disconnect downpipe and IC pipe from the turbo, maybe fuel lines too if they look like they'd need to stretch. Lift the motor a dozen cm or so and drop the oil pan. I'll hope to not have to disconnect AC or power steering.

With the pan off, I'd hope to be able to replace the rod bearings. New FIPG for the oil pan, bolt everything back together, and be able to drive the car until the new motor is ready.

Has anyone pulled the oil pan with the motor in the car? I'm hoping that I can get enough clearance without dropping the transmission, though I don't mind disconnecting stuff.
 
hvyman

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
Staff member
Apr 17, 2007
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Won't be able to unless motor is half way out. Pan has to clear the pick up tube.

Easier to just yank motor still complete with trans and everything then Reseal oil pan and dump back it. It's a days work. Just take fuel lines ds ic piping exhaust rad heater hose ac if there and drop ps to the side like ac. Pull harness though hole and take with motor.

Unless you'd rather support engine and drop subframe with everything connected. Seems like harder work to me tho.
 
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Maple191

Member
Mar 21, 2012
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Toronto
I pulled off and resealled my pan twice with the engine in the car. You need to nbolt the 2 engine mounts and lower the 6 subframe bolts untill there about 2-3 threads left hoing the subframe in. And you need to jack up the front of the tranny. To get the angle needed to get y the pick up tube.
 
xCxHxRxIxSx

xCxHxRxIxSx

Member
Mar 4, 2011
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Oakville, Ontario
I had to replace the oil pan on a customers supra at work once.

IMG_0115.JPGIMG_0116.JPG

Not that bad at all if you have access to a shop. Iirc the book called for around six hours.

-Chris
 
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Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
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Well, I still don't plan on a complete removal of the engine, but I'll see what happens. I don't mind lifting the engine a bit, but I'd really rather not disconnect the PS, AC, starter, and a lot of other things that I'm likely to overlook. I'm sure that there are people who can do this is a few hours. I'm not one of them, since I haven't done it many times. (So far, I've only pulled the 7M-GTE once, and that was from the donor car, where I forgot a few things...)

Also, considering that I know that I'm going to have to do it again when I get my block assembled, I do want to keep the wrench pulling to a minimum. The whole point of this is that it's a "quick" fix, which may not even result in something properly fixed, but I hope that it buys me time until I can get a proper repair done. If I actually pull the motor, I'd probably just leave it out until I get the new block built, but I want to be able to move/drive the car in the meantime, which is why I haven't pulled the motor yet.
 
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Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
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Heh.

Well, as I said, the plan is for this block to be in the car only until the new one is ready.

From comments, I don't expect it to be a walk in the park (and if I did, I'd have never asked about it in the first place, I'd have just done it) but I think that I can lift the motor 8" or so, which should be enough to allow the pan to clear, without needing to remove the PS pump or AC compressor from the block.
 
xCxHxRxIxSx

xCxHxRxIxSx

Member
Mar 4, 2011
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Oakville, Ontario
You can't lift the engine much because of the transmission tunnel, and even if you remove the driveshaft to tilt the tranny I don't think the pan would clear the pump. If you choose to lower the subframe you don't have to touch the AC or p/s. You would have to; disconnect the tie-rods, lower bjs, brake lines, pull cv shafts from the hubs, engine mounts etc. then take out the six bolts for the subframe. Obviously you have to support the engine too.

Ya that supra was rusty as hell but, surprisingly I didn't have trouble with a single bolt lol
 
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Maple191

Member
Mar 21, 2012
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Toronto
xCxHxRxIxSx;1875895 said:
If you choose to lower the subframe you don't have to touch the AC or p/s. You would have to; disconnect the tie-rods, lower bjs, brake lines, pull cv shafts from the hubs, engine mounts etc. then take out the six bolts for the subframe. Obviously you have to support the engine too.
Click to expand...

You only need to unbolt the the engine mounts and unbolt the 6 sub-frame bolts but leave 2-3 threads in place. and jack up the enging with a stand. Ive done this 2 times its not hard as long as your sub-frame bolts come out with ease. If not then you gotta pull the engine out.
 
NashMan

NashMan

WTF did he just wright ?
Aug 5, 2005
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Victoria BC
I have done it not hard just un-bolt sub frame, use cherry picker to hold motor in place then use 2x4 to jam it from lowering and doing damage to the pickers ram then with a floor jack lower sub frame then mark and unbolt steer linkage

very simple kidna annoying but not hard at all
 
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