I'm not sure what the proper term for them are; but, I need them removed

[CajunKenny]

I need to remove the two studs out of the deck of the block that are used to guide and align the Head Gasket and Head on to the block.

All the ways I can think of removing them, risk damaging either the studs or the block. Neither of which I want to do.

How do I get them out safely and are they reusable?

 

[NewWestSupras]

They are dowels, and they are super cheap to replace. (like 2 bux). Just protect the block, pull them, and buy new ones. Don't forget new squirters, as well! gl

 

[CajunKenny]

They are dowels, and they are super cheap to replace. (like 2 bux). Just protect the block, pull them, and buy new ones. Don't forget new squirters, as well! gl

Dowels. Ok. Thanks...

Are you referring to the oil squirters on the inside wall of the block? That would be a good idea to replace those too.

I thought about replacing the oil pick-up piping with Earl's Fittings and some Steel Braided line like I read on a different thread; but, I'm concerned about the Steel Braided Line performing under suction as opposed to its typical under pressure application. Does anyone have any insight on that?

 

[GrimJack]

You can use a punch to pound those dowels out, they'll drop into the water jackets and you fish them back out with a telescoping magnet. Should take 5 minutes for the pair of them, max.

 

[CajunKenny]

You can use a punch to pound those dowels out, they'll drop into the water jackets and you fish them back out with a telescoping magnet. Should take 5 minutes for the pair of them, max.

I just came in from trying to pull them with a pair of vice grips and a pry bar. They wouldn't budge.

So just hammer them down with a punch eh? Ok. I'll go try it!

 

[CajunKenny]

You can use a punch to pound those dowels out, they'll drop into the water jackets and you fish them back out with a telescoping magnet. Should take 5 minutes for the pair of them, max.

Ok. That sort of worked. The dowels are almost flush with the deck; but, the tops of the dowels have fattened due to the hammering. They don't seem to going down any further and I'm afraid to REALLY pound on them for fear of two things.

1. "Stretching" the Dowel hole to a point that the replacements won't fit correctly.

2. Damaging the surface of the block.

What next...any suggestions?

Thanks...

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

OUCH!

Okay, that was what the "use a punch" part was for, so that they don't mushroom out.

Flattened is okay. Mushroomed is not. If they're just flat, use a punch and put them through the rest of the way. If they're mushroomed, then get the dremel and be careful not to damage the block as you remove the mushroomed parts.

 

[IJ.]

Too late now but I use a pair of sidecutter and a pice of Aluminium strap to protect the block, take a bit into the Dowel and lever em out.

Works every time.

In this case I'd carefully drill the Dowel tap the hole and use a slide hammer to pop em out as if you keep pounding them through you'll split the block
(More likely if it's a pre 90 block)

 

[CajunKenny]

Here's the short story. I got them out with only a small nick on the inside rim of one of the dowel holes.

Yes, the reason for the "mushroom" effect was because I was hitting WAAAY hard with a 4lb mini-sledge and my punch was about 3/4 the size of the dowel itself. And they were barely moving even with that 4lb sledge!

What I ended up doing was drilling down the center of the dowel in steps. Ultimately getting as close to the block itself and thinning the outside wall of the dowel. Then put my punch in the hole of the dowel that I just drilled and as expected, the mushroomed portion (now a thin wall) of the dowel easily collapsed around my punch. And of course allowing me to finish knocking them through.

Thanks guys!

Man that was scary!!!!! :aigo:

 

[IJ.]

Check it really closely for cracks around the holes Kenny.

 

[CajunKenny]

Check it really closely for cracks around the holes Kenny.

I will. I was really wacking those things let me tell ya!

Is there a method to checking for cracks? Like some sort of powder or chemical and a black light? That may very well be worth my time!

 

[cuel]

Magnafluxing? (I think thats what its called) A machine shop should be able to check that for you.

 

[jetjock]

I'd say in this case dye penetrant will do.

 

[CajunKenny]

I was hoping an "At Home" type of check; but, the block is going to a shop for re-surfacing next week. I'll just have them do it.

Finding an import shop has been difficult out here in the sticks! :icon_bigg

 

[3p141592654]

I tapped those things, then put some washers down and used a nut to pull it out. My slide hammer never was able to grip them well enough to work.

 

[Poodles]

There is a specific tool to pull them out without damaging them, but I doubt it's cheap...

Also, make sure they're straight if they are reused. I know the ones on my flywheel where bent...

 

[3p141592654]

Yup, its called a dowel pin puller and goes for about $250 from snapon. You need an 8mm collet for the 7M dowels. Unless your doing this often, IJ's side-cutters or my tap-and-nut approach is probably sufficient.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=3640&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[CajunKenny]

In my first attempt, I clamped a pair of Vice-Grips on the end and tried prying up with a pry bar. Protecting the block of course. It wouldn't budge a bit. The Vice-Grips kept slipping off. I'm not sure even the side-cutter route would've worked. These things were in there man!!!

And yes, once out, they were bent!

I like the tapping approach. I'll try that next time! Thanks for the idea!

 

[IJ.]

Not sure about 3P's way but mine they can be reused multiple times
(mine are on their 4th install now)

 

[3p141592654]

Once tapped they are junk, but for for 75 cents x 2 you can get new ones from toyota!