Poodles;1655773 said:
& how was i suppose to seat the rings??? we did the oil change though. But now its time for the other one.
Idle at 2K RPMS, Oil smells like GAS
- Thread starter D.J.T.
- Start date
& how was i suppose to seat the rings??? we did the oil change though. But now its time for the other one.
Prolong idling after rebuild is a good way to prevent ring seating and glaze cylinders. Odd that someone of your dad's experience doesn't know such basic stuff.
jetjock;1655833 said:
He didn't help me with that.
---------- Post added at 01:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:02 PM ----------
whitemike;1655853 said:
Uhh. could you be a little more specific of WHY? id really like to know. Piston Ring change??? What would i need to do???
Gota7MGTE;1655857 said:
It's sounding like you glazed the cylinders and the rings won't seat, the only proper way to de-glaze (to my knowledge, of course) is to disassemble the motor..
I could be wrong, let's wait for someone with more experience to chime in to confirm.
whitemike;1655859 said:
All i know is that he set all the ring gaps facing away 90 degrees (something like that) from each other as AllData specifies & would a compression test help?
Wouldn't hurt. Is oil consumption high? That's a sure sign of glazing.
Mike is correct, if glazed it'll have to come apart to be fixed right. You could try the old trick of running something mildly abrasive through it but that rarely works.
Mike is correct, if glazed it'll have to come apart to be fixed right. You could try the old trick of running something mildly abrasive through it but that rarely works.
jetjock;1655863 said:
No, oil level is normal. Car doesn't burn any oil. & the compression is good. He told me last night that it could be all the engine degrease coming off since we completely degrease the block & cylinder head. Just went out & checked & the oil smells less of gas & is pretty dark so im going ahead & getting oil & filter. Maybe he's right & im over reacting cuz the look on his face (the idgaf) says much.
Then hows about you stop wasting our time, change the oil, and see what happens. And wtf is up with insisting on oil from a Mopar dealership? Yeah, I believe he doesn't "gaf" if he built your engine and didn't provide advice about breaking it in. Not to mention the amount of gaf required to let you drive around with a failing brake master. Frankly, I think you've both got bigger problems than some old car...
jetjock;1655884 said:
IM sorry man, like i said i don't get much help, he built it, saw it run & i was on my own much & he decides when to help or not & i looked on to Supramania to get help. Im a 18 yr old with lotz of sht to learn.... He decided to help AFTER i went & broke my Celica's drum self adjuster trying 2 change shoes for the 1st time in my life. LOL He basically WANTS Me to screw up & learn?? & the Brake Master Cylinder... YEA, who wants to change that when its 14 degrees Fahrenheit outside? & i use the car daily to go to work & if im not at work he is working & i need someone to help with bleeding the system so both of us would have to be there... The MOPAR oil is good oil, its the kind he uses for his 2.7 Intrepid.
Gota7MGTE;1655893 said:
Doesn't matter how good the oil is when it's contaminated with gas. Gas doesn't lubricate...
Ya man gas will kill your motor. I just bot my new to me one. And the old owner didn't break the motor in right ya it already blown. With only 4k on the rebuild. Some dumb ass thought that 12lbs of boost and synthetic oil was the way to go on a rebuild to start out. Make sure you don't have alot of smoke coming out of your oil cap when at idel.
JStoked;1656030 said:
Im running the car 95% with the 3" exhaust being said. NO smoke at all from anywhere. Only when i start the car, it comes out of the muffler well because its like 20 degrees Fahrenheit outside, but then when it gets to operating temperature it stops. ALL CARS AROUND HERE DO THAT. Thanks for the tip!
jetjock;1655884 said:
Thank you! @OP: Change the god damn oil and update! Who cares about speculation?