how much negative camber

[Clip]

hey all,

almost done getting the suspension finished and I was wondering about going with a little negative camber.

with tein flex coils, energy bushings and st sway bars (on an otherwise stock wheel/tire setup) how much negative camber/toe in should i go with for a daily driver? i don't want to overdo it, just set up something that'll hang in the curves.

front/rear setting advice?

thanks!

 

[tissimo]

As little as possible on the camber. Leave toe factory specs.

My car ended up with ~ -1.2 * camber in the rear and -.7* up front. But front is a little high


Got about 20k miles out of my tires.

 

[ma71supraturbo]

Alignments are pretty individualized, and the ideal settings will change based on intended use of the car, ride height, spring stiffness, roll stiffness, etc. This is my rough guess of where you should start (and anyone else reading this thread -- my recommendation probably wouldn't be the same for you depending on your mods)


Stock alignment:
Front:
Camber: -0.2* +- 0.5*
Caster: 7.7* +- 0.5*
Toe: 0 +- 0.08"

Rear:
Camber: -0.75* +- 0.75*
Toe: 0.16" +- 0.08"


For autocross/tight track/aggressive street use (and you don't mind the wear):
Front:
Camber: -2* (car will probably have to be lowered to get this much camber without adjustable arms)
Caster: 8*
Toe: 0 to 1/16" OUT

Rear:
Camber: -1*
Toe: 0 to 1/8" OUT


For higher speed tracks, back-road cruising, etc:
Front:
Camber: -1.5*
Caster: 8*
Toe: 0 to 1/16" in

Rear:
Camber: -.5*
Toe: 0 to 1/16" OUT


For primarily street use:
Front:
Camber: -.75*
Caster: 8*
Toe: 0 to 1/16" in

Rear:
Camber: -.75*
Toe: 0


Couple of quick notes:

* Our cars suspension geometry/camber curves are actually very very good and we generally don't need as much negative camber as many other cars.
* Many people like to run a little less front camber, and a little more rear camber than me. They also tend to run more conservative toe settings. I've found that my settings result in slightly better (and more predicable) rear traction & tire wear during hard acceleration and significantly better turn in. This comes at the expense of "stability" -- my settings generally leave the car handling neutral which means you will encounter oversteer just as often as you do understeer. Additionally, it'll be a little more darty when driven on roads with deep grooves from big rig's.
* Don't be afraid of some toe OUT in the rear. The stock alignment was based on a car with 240 lb/ft of torque at the crank. If you're running 350+ torque at the wheels, you're going to be toeing-in the rear suspension quite a bit more under load and you shouldn't be afraid to compensate. Just know that the rear end will be slightly less planted under severe braking.

 

[Daikokufuto]

How do you physicaly adjust the camber for the front or rear? I I've been searching but I can't find pics of what I am tyring to adjust to adjust the front and rear

 

[planemos]

@ the lower control arm is the only way unless you have adjustable upper arms (aftermarket)

 

[Turbo Habanero]

Stock alignment:
Front:
Camber: -0.2* +- 0.5*
Caster: 7.7* +- 0.5*
Toe: 0 +- 0.08"

Rear:
Camber: -0.75* +- 0.75*
Toe: 0.16" +- 0.08"

One question what do you mean by the +- in relation to the second number?

Thanks in Advance Jordan

 

[airhead04]

The +/- and the number that follows is the tolerance that is allowed.

 

[Turbo Habanero]

The +/- and the number that follows is the tolerance that is allowed.

Thank you sir

 

[te72]

I ran about 2° rear camber on my NA, and around 1° front camber, the car handled great, but I wouldn't have expected to put down any meaningful power with that setup either...

 

[Typhoon]

-0.5 degrees is about the maximum you'll want on a street car. Anything more than that and tramlining becomes a serious issue, as does horrendous tyre wear.

 

[destrux]

Toe is what usually causes that horrendous tire wear, especially front toe being too far from zero. Most people associate camber with that horrible tire wear because when you lower a car you can see the huge camber change (and people know that you need camber plates/bolts/arms to fix this), but what you don't see is that when the camber changed the toe also went out of spec, and when the alignment shop fixes the camber they automatically fix the toe too (it's always factory adjustable on the front), but they usually don't mention it because it's SOP when adjusting camber.

In my experience camber won't cause the tires to wear that bad, especially if you're driving hard enough to be "using" the camber.

I have my car set at 1.5 deg front and 1 deg rear. This was the lowest I could get it with the car being lowered (the adjusters are maxed out), but my tires are wearing fine and with some air pressure adjustments and some time with the pyro I have them so they heat up evenly... so it worked out anyway.

 

[te72]

In my experience camber won't cause the tires to wear that bad, especially if you're driving hard enough to be "using" the camber.

I have my car set at 1.5 deg front and 1 deg rear. This was the lowest I could get it with the car being lowered (the adjusters are maxed out), but my tires are wearing fine and with some air pressure adjustments and some time with the pyro I have them so they heat up evenly... so it worked out anyway.

This was approximately as close to factory specs that they could get my car when I had it aligned (damned frozen adjuster bolts in the rear...), I have the sheet showing the before/after on my setup at home, but I never noticed any abnormal tire wear on the tires I had. Granted, they had a treadwear rating of 740, that *might* have had something to do with a lack of wear.

 

[hvyman]

I run -1.2 rear and -1.4 front. More front camber is better for turns.

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

I run none, +1.2 in the rear and 0 in the front..

 

[raysupra]

lol david is this your first supra? I have to give you props.. you popped out of nowhere and did great with a stock ct.. you seem to enjoy and learn a lot.. props to your future goals and good luck

 

[supranz]

Does someone have (or could they make) a diagram that shows where all the adjusters are. I'll be lowering my car soon and I'm purely curious about it all.

 

[te72]

I run none, +1.2 in the rear and 0 in the front..

Makes perfect sense given the purpose of your car though... For most things, I don't see any more than a degree being needed.