how do you know if igniter is bad?

Nick M

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suprawalt;1037382 said:
.028 gap, turbonetics 60-1,bc 264 cams,.020 wiscoe pistons, aem ems,gm boost solenoid,aem map sensor,550cc injecters

Since you are on you are running AEM, you are sort of on your own. The engine still has needs to be met, but you have to select the parameters now. Can you even pull codes on this system?

Chevyeater used it. I am sure others did also. Maybe one of them will aid you. The spark needs to happen early enough, and long enough to avoid flame out. And a good coil is needed. If you can pull codes, did you get a 34?
 

supra90mkiii

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If my car is miss firing under boost, that means there would be excess oxygen in the exhaust (that would be read as a leaner condition) right? So it's still possible that I'm running pig rich but my w/b o2 sensor doesn't think so?
 

supra90mkiii

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Clueless;1039795 said:
I wouldn't think so, unless your o2 sensor is bad but even then, idk

but you have to think about what an oxygen sensor does, it reads how much oxygen is in the exhaust, if my car is miss firing, then there is excess oxygen that was not burned, in the exhaust, making the o2 sensor read lean.
 

Nick M

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supra90mkiii;1039791 said:
If my car is miss firing under boost, that means there would be excess oxygen in the exhaust (that would be read as a leaner condition) right? So it's still possible that I'm running pig rich but my w/b o2 sensor doesn't think so?

Your wideband is saying you are rich? A gas analyizer will tell you the actual content of the engine gasses.

Rich is easy to light. You don't really get a rich misfire, well you can, but it isn't easy. Especially in boost. Lean is hard to light. You should think about an air intake leak.
 

supra90mkiii

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Nick M;1040053 said:
Your wideband is saying you are rich? A gas analyizer will tell you the actual content of the engine gasses.

Rich is easy to light. You don't really get a rich misfire, well you can, but it isn't easy. Especially in boost. Lean is hard to light. You should think about an air intake leak.
No boost leaks. Also, I am running speed/density with the Maftpro setup.
 

Clueless

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supra90mkiii;1039999 said:
but you have to think about what an oxygen sensor does, it reads how much oxygen is in the exhaust, if my car is miss firing, then there is excess oxygen that was not burned, in the exhaust, making the o2 sensor read lean.

no...if you running rich, your o2 sensor will pick that up as rich mixture. Lean would be lots of air but little fuel

Edit: dammit, you gotten me all confused
 

supra90mkiii

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I just tested my cam position sensor. spec is supposed to be: between G1 and G-, G2 and G-, NE and G-, should be 140 and 180 ohms of resistance. G1 and G- came out to 179ohms, G2 and G- came out to 360ohms, and NE and G- came out to 360ohms. So looks like i'm getting a CPS.
 

supra90mkiii

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Sorry to bring this thread back to life but replacing the CPS did not help my problem at all. Going to try and find some wires to through at it next, even though I have MSD 8.5mm that I put on last year.
 

jetjock

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Well, other than your comment about the spark "seems" to blow out I see absolutely nothing in the thread to indicate the problem is really ignition related. Funny how most everyone latched onto that too. You even questioned it by wondering about the O2 content of the exhaust stream. I'd be looking elsewhere but if it comes to it an ignition scope would settle things once and for all. If you don't have one I suggest you pay someone who has. Shouldn't cost much.

Oh and the answer is 360 ;)
 

supra90mkiii

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jetjock;1055563 said:
Well, other than your comment about the spark "seems" to blow out I see absolutely nothing in the thread to indicate the problem is really ignition related. Funny how most everyone latched onto that too. You even questioned it by wondering about the O2 content of the exhaust stream. I'd be looking elsewhere but if it comes to it an ignition scope would settle things once and for all. If you don't have one I suggest you pay someone who has. Shouldn't cost much.

Oh and the answer is 360 ;)
Alright, if you don't think it's ignition related, it could be weak valve spring(s), seeing that both of us have BC 264 cams, and I know that I am on stock springs. (I have been using these cams for more than a year now.)
 

Nick M

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supra90mkiii;1040678 said:
I just tested my cam position sensor. spec is supposed to be: between G1 and G-, G2 and G-, NE and G-, should be 140 and 180 ohms of resistance. G1 and G- came out to 179ohms, G2 and G- came out to 360ohms, and NE and G- came out to 360ohms. So looks like i'm getting a CPS.

Not that it matters now, but the best way to check the pickup is with a DSO, aka a scope. Fluke sells them hand held size, and has done so for quite a few years now. That is, if you want to start checking its output like that.

Did you look for an intake leak yet? What about a 34. Fuel cut causes that symptom also. Many said they don't have a boost leak, and after 3 weeks of chasing their tail, saw one.
 

supra90mkiii

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Well, time for an update, I put plug wires in, which didn't help at all, and I also replaced one fuel injector, because it sounded a little different than the others, which also did not help at all. The problem seems to be coming quicker now, 3000rpm, 3ish psi, and occasionally missing at idle with a hesitation when coming off of idle. I still have yet to replace any of the coils and the ignitor, I'm tempted to replace them, but they tested good per the tsrm so I don't think they would help me here.

p.s. no code 34, i'm running speed/density also, so even if i had a boost leak the car would still drive fine, but with a lack of acceleration, but it wouldn't cause a misfire/sputter.
 

Clueless

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supra90mkiii;1083720 said:
Well, time for an update, I put plug wires in, which didn't help at all, and I also replaced one fuel injector, because it sounded a little different than the others, which also did not help at all. The problem seems to be coming quicker now, 3000rpm, 3ish psi, and occasionally missing at idle with a hesitation when coming off of idle. I still have yet to replace any of the coils and the ignitor, I'm tempted to replace them, but they tested good per the tsrm so I don't think they would help me here.

p.s. no code 34, i'm running speed/density also, so even if i had a boost leak the car would still drive fine, but with a lack of acceleration, but it wouldn't cause a misfire/sputter.

technically, if you had a boost leak, it seems that you could be hitting a rich spot on the tune. Try a stock ecu/setting to confirm this is not the case?