How do 4" sound?

[Adjuster]

If you use seperate 4" mid and tweeters, and have a good crossover, your sound will be much better.

I have Diamond Audio componets, and they work great with my 10" sealed box Diamond subwoofer. (the key is a good amp setup, and control of the bass seperate from the rest.)

I had to modify the stock speaker housing to work with the Diamonds. They were too deep having cast alloy baskets and larger magnets.

Also try putting some stuffing in your enclosures. It makes them "Sound" bigger.

4" front, and 5.25's in the back work with some minor trimming for most people. (Unless you have the 91 door trim and enclosures, then you can use 6" I belive.)

 

[Tearlessj]

Alright, Im going to settle for some CDT 5.25 components in the front and some 5.25 CDT mids in the back with a hifonics 440 watt 4-way amp. How should this sound. Im not going to be running subs due to the weight of the subs I want.I just want some decent clear sound. Nothing too over the top.

 

[tekdeus]

I think you'll be happy. You can get double the bass out of 5.25" speakers running them off an amp compared to head unit power. Most head units only put out a true 7-12 RMS watts per channel. See if you can mount your front tweeters like I mentioned. The difference in stereo imaging will be amazing.

I'd still recommend a single 8 or 10" sub in the rear to fill it all out nicely. (Just so you know, I sold car audio for 5 years!)

 

[Tearlessj]

Im thinking about putting a FI audio 12" Q in the back. Id love to have a sub, but weight would start to become an issue. Id want it to be easy to remove, but then itd be easy to steal. Thatd be another thing too, I dont want my shit jacked! lol

 

[bwest]

Fitting 6.5 in the door is not that hard, and since you are going to an external amp for power, (while other may disagree) I see it as the only way to go.
here is a write up on 6.5s in the door:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=286116&postcount=32

 

[Tearlessj]

Fitting 6.5 in the door is not that hard, and since you are going to an external amp for power, (while other may disagree) I see it as the only way to go.
here is a write up on 6.5s in the door:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...6&postcount=32

Link isnt working.

 

[bwest]

Fixed the link in my post.

here it is again:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=286116&postcount=32

thanks for the heads up.

 

[johnathan1]

Here's another write-up:

http://gallery.sanitylapse.com/v/supra/thumbnails.php?album=158

 

[annoyingrob]

I think you'll be happy. You can get double the bass out of 5.25" speakers running them off an amp compared to head unit power. Most head units only put out a true 7-12 RMS watts per channel. See if you can mount your front tweeters like I mentioned. The difference in stereo imaging will be amazing.

I'd still recommend a single 8 or 10" sub in the rear to fill it all out nicely. (Just so you know, I sold car audio for 5 years!)

Yes, get a separate amp for the fronts. Even a small 2x50w amp will make a HUGE difference in clarity. Trust us, it's a GOOD investment.

 

[TRACKTIME]

I want a good sounding set-up. I was going to go 5.25 components, but Im not sure if those will fit up front. I noticed alot of people are running 4" in the front that fit rite in. How do they sound? Should i go ahead and find a 5.25?

 

[Tearlessj]

Yes, get a separate amp for the fronts. Even a small 2x50w amp will make a HUGE difference in clarity. Trust us, it's a GOOD investment.

I dont think he mentioned anything about running a seperate amp for the fronts and backs. Im trying to get around 100w to each speaker.

 

[bwest]

I have a 100w/ch going to to my CDT's - which IMO is just right for the set that I have. If you have their kevlar coned euro set (for instance) you might consider more than 100w/ch

 

[tekdeus]

50 watts RMS (real watts) is often called 100 or 150 MAX or PEAK watts. 2x50 RMS is tons for 5 or 6 inch speakers. Many house amplifiers put out 2x50!

RMS is continuous output, the number that equates to real-world use. Many amp makers will measure the shortest (millisecond) power spike an amp can spew out with massive distortion (over 10%) while supplying the amp with voltage that it would never see in a real car environment )say 14-15 volts. This is how they market a 50 rms watt amp to be 200 or 400 peak watts.

 

[annoyingrob]

I have a 100w/ch going to to my CDT's - which IMO is just right for the set that I have. If you have their kevlar coned euro set (for instance) you might consider more than 100w/ch

I run about 80wrms into my CDT 6.5s (the kevlar cone euroframe ones), and with an 80hz highpass on them, 80w is plenty of power for them. "Just right" sounds good

I dont think he mentioned anything about running a seperate amp for the fronts and backs. Im trying to get around 100w to each speaker.

What I meant was don't even bother amping the rear speakers. Focus on the fronts.

 

[bwest]

50 watts RMS (real watts) is often called 100 or 150 MAX or PEAK watts. 2x50 RMS is tons for 5 or 6 inch speakers. Many house amplifiers put out 2x50!

RMS is continuous output, the number that equates to real-world use. Many amp makers will measure the shortest (millisecond) power spike an amp can spew out with massive distortion (over 10%) while supplying the amp with voltage that it would never see in a real car environment )say 14-15 volts. This is how they market a 50 rms watt amp to be 200 or 400 peak watts.

true- this is why i prefer amps with an actual 'birth certificate'. I don't have the means to build a test bench (nor the desire) - so by sticking to an amp with a tested output (with the testing constraints listed) from the factory is ok with me.

I run about 80wrms into my CDT 6.5s (the kevlar cone euroframe ones), and with an 80hz highpass on them, 80w is plenty of power for them. "Just right" sounds good

I should note that when I installed mine (4 years ago) I had to do some work to the door to seal the mid-bass in order to make it sound decent @volume. from here, I was able to set the amp gain at a normal level (I'm still running a 60hz highpass)and still crank it up. without an actual tester, it is hard to say i'm running X wts all the time (i actually don't listen to my music that loud anymore...must be getting old) but based on amp output, 100/channnel in a running can environment could happen (if i cranked it up enough).

btw- how do the euro's sound? they hadn't come out yet when I bought my set.

 

[Turbo. Targa. Life.]

If I were you I'd say ditch the rear speakers all together. The simplest wayto explain this is to have you think of a concert soundstage. Where is all the music coming from? In front of you

Stereo Imaging FTW If you do a search on sound quality level competition cars, you'll find that most, if not all of them do not use what is called "rear fill" (rear speakers). A decent set of components, with correct power, and a sub with correct power that is not overwhelming said components will make ALL the difference

 

[tekdeus]

I find that the positioning of the rear speakers in the Mk3 is so far back and by pointing up, they do a good job of filling in the sound without affecting the frond sound stage too much. I prefer to be "surrounded" by sound, myself.

 

[annoyingrob]

If I were you I'd say ditch the rear speakers all together.

I think I mentioned that earlier, but nobody listened I agree with you 100% I don't run rears in my supra. All it does is screw up the soundstage. And yes, most "SQ" installs don't use rears. Instead of upgrading the rears, take the money, and put it into the fronts. A GOOD set of front speakers, properly amped won't need rear fill at all. I tried running rears, but I found all it did was make it sound worse.

As for being "surrounded" by sound, if your fronts are set up properly, they will surround you. Do you feel surrounded by sound with a pair of headphones? I bet you do.... As long as the speakers are angled to create the proper soundstage, they will surround you with sound.

btw- how do the euro's sound? they hadn't come out yet when I bought my set.

I'm very impressed with them. They are extremely clear speakers. The tweeters are very natural, not harsh at all. The midrange is very accurate as well. I'm noticing things in music I didn't even know was there. I couldn't pass them up when woofersect.com had them on sale for $250. Then I bought them, and they dropped them to $200 :nono: . I can see why these things are usually $500 speakers, they sound amazing.

While we're on the subject, the tweeters are mounted in the stock location, above the midrange. They're angled up towards the driver. They work EXTREMELY well at creating the proper soundstage. I was a little concerned with the soundstage, especially when stock, as the speakers kind of fire at your knees. I didn't want to create any sort of kick panels, there's no room (especially in a RHD car, the gas pedal is there), but with the tweeters angled up towards the driver, it lifted the whole soundstage up from your stomach to your face.

 

[Turbo. Targa. Life.]

I <3 people who know their shit. non-existant +1 for you Rob

 

[annoyingrob]

I <3 people who know their shit. non-existant +1 for you Rob

My alter-ego is an audio guru Second from driving, music is my passion. There's not a lot I don't know about car audio, but I usually remain quiet because on a forum like this, nobody bothers to listen.