Hissing noise when brake pedal pressed

CajunKenny

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Nov 15, 2007
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Ok. I feel a little inept posting this; but, there ARE no stupid questions. Right!? ;)

I am having trouble getting consistent pressure in the brake pedal during the bleeding process. Pressure is intermittent.

When there is little pressure at the pedal, a hissing noise is heard through the intake manifold. This is pressure leaking from the brake booster. I'm guessing this isn't good.

Consulting with the TSRM indicates that it has failed. I find this hard to believe since it was working fine when I parked it for upgrades 4.5 months ago.

Something else noteworthy is that the calipers were off for most of this time period.

Am I missing something or has the brake booster failed by sitting...?

Thanks,
-Kenny
 

CajunKenny

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Nov 15, 2007
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That was my thought too. I have gione through 4 quarts of brake fluid bleeding this thing. I just installed a new master cylinder and got the same results.

There are no apparent vac leaks at idle via my boost gauge.
 

D.J.T.

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Aug 25, 2010
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Brake Master Cylinder? Any how, i hope that new master cylinder is from the dealership....

i bled my whole system because the oil was extremely dirty.. so new oil in all calipers & the whole system is a good idea..
 

CajunKenny

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Nov 15, 2007
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Yep, the brake master cylinder. And no, it's not from the dealership.

Since I can hear the pressure bleeding off, and after a suggestion from a buddy, I changed the valve above the brake booster and I still have the bleed off...
 

D.J.T.

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CajunKenny;1707493 said:
Yep, the brake master cylinder. And no, it's not from the dealership.

Since I can hear the pressure bleeding off, and after a suggestion from a buddy, I changed the valve above the brake booster and I still have the bleed off...

Aftermarket Brake/Clutch, Master/slave cylinders :puke:

My Brake master was failing, bought one from oreilly didn't work, got it replaced still didn't work, got one from napa & that didn't work. got an used one from an SM member, problem fixed...
 

CajunKenny

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Nov 15, 2007
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I am going to take the master off my 87 and also go pick up a vacuum bleeder and see what that gets me.

So far, two masters, two brake booster valves, and 2.2 gallons of brake fluid. Still no consistent pressure…

At this point, I am open to any and all experiences and ideas.

We have a Supra Meet next weekend so I’m down to the wire here!!! :aigo:
 

spencyg

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Oct 7, 2010
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Old car parts can fail without warning. Especially ones with old rubber/neoprene diaphragms, etc. Sitting all winter in a dry garage could have caused something to dry out to the point where the first time its cycled in the spring causes a crack. I'd bet $5.00 on needing to replace the booster.

SGinNE
 

D.J.T.

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Aug 25, 2010
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My symptoms happened when i pressed the brake pedal, it would go all the way down & then i let go & pressed again & it would hook up from the top.. know what i mean? so to brake i had to tap the brake pedal twice quickly

As for the Reman cylinder & new cylinders they didn't send any pressure to the back wheels once installed on the booster. but did get pressure while purging it on a bench.. strange but it happened to the new & reman cylinders. Your not going to get any pressure since its a reman or NEW (aftermarket)...

Get an used one or one from dealership & you'll get the pressure. just watch
 

metaphysico

Mad Scientist
Jan 2, 2008
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^ same here with 7 different after market ones, have not tried a dealer one yet. Your best off to get a rebuild kit for the master cyl, really you cant use the whole kit because one of the seals is just cut wrong, same reason new ones dont work. I went to the junk yard pulled one off a supra, and used the reman one I got to rebuild mine, mainly just replacing the rear piston seal. I really need to do a write up on this, but have run out of used and reman ones.

As for the hissing that is going to be a bad booster most likely. What happens a lot of times is when normally use your brakes there is only a small amount of travel on the booster. But when you are bleeding the brakes or have not fluid in them what ever, your brake pedal will travel further pushing the booster past its normal point and can make it leak. As for the master if you had no fluid in it and then added some and bled it out you might have torn a seal, if it sits dry for a while then pushes past the dry area while you try to bleed it it can rip the seal, I have seen this many times.

As for the master, the conditions you get are as described, normally if you press the brake hard and fast you will have good pedal, but if you press it slower it will just leak down, until it gets near the floor then the front piston in pushing on the front brakes and the pedal stops moving just before it hits the floor. I had to drive my car home like this and it was not fun with only the front brakes working.

It is really easy to take the master apart and inspect the seals just need a 10mm wrench and a pair of snap ring pliers. Take the 10mm bolt out of the front of the master (not on the front but near the front on either side or bottom). This bolt holds the front piston in place so it cant travel to far back down the chamber. Press the piston in some with a screw driver and remove the snap ring. The piston will come out now, there will be a piston on the rear with the seal on the very front of it being the bad one you need to look at. If you want you can then pull the front piston out as well and inspect it.

I used to be able to get master cyl rebuild kits from napa but I dont know if they still carry them because its getting harder to get any kind of rebuild kits from them.

Btw older cars have steel or cast ones, dont know which but they are black, new ones are aluminum.

Here this should help.
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-brakemastermk3supranoabs.php
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-brakemastercylinderrebuildkit90-92mk3wabs.php
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-brakemastercylinderrebuildkit865to90mk3wabs.php

btw if you are going to rebuild it you need to check the bore inside the master for pitting or scratches, and you will want to hone it, you can use a wheel cylinder hone, they are usually around $5 or so.
 

CajunKenny

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Nov 15, 2007
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metaphysico: Thanks for the links and the anatomy lesson. Great stuff! :)

Poodles: If the pedal is pressed slowly, it just bleeds off and the pedal hits the floor. Car running, instant floor.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I went and bought a vacuum bleeder and re-installed the original master. After bleeding it with the new bleeder, it firms up better with the car off. With the car running, I can now get pressure; but, it takes 1 to 2 pumps.

Much like descriptions previously posted.

I'll try bleeding again tomorrow...
 

IBoughtASupra

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Mar 10, 2009
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The booster is to make the brake softer so I don't believe that would be the problem. The master sends the pressure.

When you bled the system, did you start from the passenger rear, then to driver rear, then to the passenger front and lastly, the driver front? It is always a good habit to bleed farthest from the master cylinder.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Sounds like 2 issues....

1: There's a demand valve in the Booster or the Vacc from the engine would suck the brakes on whenever the throttle was closed.

If the Pedal is adjusted incorrectly you might have the valve open, never seen one but the valve may have failed stuck open.

Try the adjustement first you should have some freeplay between the pedal shaft and the booster.

2: Do a pedal height retention test, press the pedal 5>6 times with the engine off to exhaust the booster then Hold firm pressure on the pedal and see what it does and post back.
 

CajunKenny

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Nov 15, 2007
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IBoughtASupra;1707911 said:
When you bled the system, did you start from the passenger rear, then to driver rear, then to the passenger front and lastly, the driver front? It is always a good habit to bleed farthest from the master cylinder.

Yes sir. :)


IJ.;1707920 said:
Sounds like 2 issues....

1: There's a demand valve in the Booster or the Vacc from the engine would suck the brakes on whenever the throttle was closed.

If the Pedal is adjusted incorrectly you might have the valve open, never seen one but the valve may have failed stuck open.

Try the adjustement first you should have some freeplay between the pedal shaft and the booster.

2: Do a pedal height retention test, press the pedal 5>6 times with the engine off to exhaust the booster then Hold firm pressure on the pedal and see what it does and post back.

Pedal adjustments confirmed with the TSRM.

Engine off with 6 pedal presses = a very firm pedal and when held the 6th time, it holds and does not bleed off.

Engine on = pedal hits the floor. 5-6 pumps the pedal firms slightly; but, will sink to the floor if held.

The above is progress after bleeding with the vac bleeder.

EDIT: At this point, the only TSRM test it fails is the Brake Booster test. The pedal is firm and when the vehicle is started, it hits the floor instead of having slight travel.
 
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IBoughtASupra

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Mar 10, 2009
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Maybe a bad check valve it did I miss that you changed it?

Adequate vacuum from the booster's nipple on the manifold?

You did say you tried two boosters already correct? Pay for shipping and I can ship you one I have here just laying around. Maybe those were bad or were they known working ones?

Don't worry, we will help you out.

If all else fails, I believe this will be solved with a JZ motor. :D
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
Demand valve in the Booster..

As I said never seen one fail but it can happen, my booster had an internal leak that screwed around with my idle quality, swapped it out issue solved.
 

CajunKenny

PULL MY FINGER. PLEASE!
Nov 15, 2007
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Washington
IBoughtASupra;1708040 said:
Maybe a bad check valve it did I miss that you changed it?

Adequate vacuum from the booster's nipple on the manifold?

You did say you tried two boosters already correct? Pay for shipping and I can ship you one I have here just laying around. Maybe those were bad or were they known working ones?

Don't worry, we will help you out.

If all else fails, I believe this will be solved with a JZ motor. :D

I have not yet changed the Brake Booster.

No need for a JZ just yet! :)


IJ.;1708042 said:
Demand valve in the Booster..

As I said never seen one fail but it can happen, my booster had an internal leak that screwed around with my idle quality, swapped it out issue solved.

I'll swap in the one from my 87.


airhead04;1708053 said:
Hmmmm, funny thing is, I to am having EXACTLY the same problems as Kenny here. And my idle vac is only at 14. This thread it helping ALOT. Thanks guys

It's amazing how something as simple as bleeding brakes can cause SO MUCH GRIEF!!!!!