Just wondering if anyone had figured out a fix for the HID bi-xenon kits not energizing the high beam indicator on the dash when high beams are activated.
Thanks
Wayne
Thanks
Wayne
HID bi-xenon and high beam indicator
- Thread starter SPD TRP
- Start date
We figure that a resistor in the empty bulb connector should do the trick, so the system thinks there is still a load... but I don't think anyone has actually done it yet.
Thanks for the tip.Doward said:
Got my TEWD out and was looking at E2 and A1.
Pm'd JJ with some specific questions.
Again thanks.
Wayne
Ummm not being a smartarse or anything but mine works 100% 
(my HID kit is the solenoid operated ones that moves the bulb for high beam)
(my HID kit is the solenoid operated ones that moves the bulb for high beam)
i have the same kit and similar issues. only my driverside hi beam works. would using a resistor work in my case?
Unlikely in the extreme. Try switching your bulbs, see if the failure is the wiring or the bulb.
sounds like the small connector that activates the switch is disconnected or the bulb assembly is faulty...
If you have an LED in the high-beam indicator, a 400ohm 2W resistor across the low-beams should work.
If you've got the stock high beam indicator bulb, then a decent sized bulb across the low beams would act as a power resistor. A turn signal bulb, for example.
If you've got the stock high beam indicator bulb, then a decent sized bulb across the low beams would act as a power resistor. A turn signal bulb, for example.
hmm... but having an odd light hidden somewhere makes me think: heat + closed space = melting and fire
only reason I didn't do that...
only reason I didn't do that...
In theory we should just be able to measure the resistance on a stock headlight and put in something similar. Unless I'm smoking the crack again, which at this time of night is possible...
GrimJack said:
yep or figure out the voltage drop and reverse the i/R *v thing and you should be able to come up with the resistence that way..
shouldn't be to hard.. if dont right shouldn't need a trail either.. (another beer maybe?)
First, a tungsten filament is non-linear, so if you measure the resistance of a headlight it will be very low, almost shorted, when cold. When its powered up, the resistance is much higher.
For the indicator light you want 12V across it, so the required resistance of the load on high beams is simple, its zero ohms! Problem is, on low beams that will not be too useful, as you'll blow the fuse.
Toyota selected a ratio 32:1 for the two bulb sizes (110W/3.4W). That is not realistic for us. A turn signal bulb is hopefully good compromise (8:1 ratio), it will be looking close to a short with the high beams on and so the indicator light will be happy, and in low beam mode it is a reasonable load.
Poodles has a good point, in that the bulb will be on during low beams, so it needs to be hidden and not near anything that will burn.
If it was me, I would go for the LED (just a bare LED with no dropping resistor) and use the 400ohm 2W resistor across the low beams.
Or, you could rewire the indicator circuit so its not powered through the low beams.
For the indicator light you want 12V across it, so the required resistance of the load on high beams is simple, its zero ohms! Problem is, on low beams that will not be too useful, as you'll blow the fuse.
Toyota selected a ratio 32:1 for the two bulb sizes (110W/3.4W). That is not realistic for us. A turn signal bulb is hopefully good compromise (8:1 ratio), it will be looking close to a short with the high beams on and so the indicator light will be happy, and in low beam mode it is a reasonable load.
Poodles has a good point, in that the bulb will be on during low beams, so it needs to be hidden and not near anything that will burn.
If it was me, I would go for the LED (just a bare LED with no dropping resistor) and use the 400ohm 2W resistor across the low beams.
Or, you could rewire the indicator circuit so its not powered through the low beams.
I still think a small relay stuck across there would work. It's early though and I'm too lazy to look at the schematic again.
The socket. The relay's coil should serve the same purpose as a lamp filament or resistor without their drawbacks. Worst that could happen is the indicator might be a bit dim. 3p?
Myself, I'd probably rewire it. Pretty simple other than the tight work area in the footwell.
Myself, I'd probably rewire it. Pretty simple other than the tight work area in the footwell.