Help understanding BC 264 timing card.

[supra90mkiii]

I emailed BC to get a hold of another copy of the timing tag for my BC 264 cams.

I'm trying to understand it.... It looks like the exhaust valve opens at 48 deg before BDC, and then closes at -8 deg before TDC (why didn't they just put 8 deg after TDC) and the intake valve opens right at TDC, and then closes at 40 deg after BDC... Maybe it's just the picture not accurately reflecting the numbers that is confusing me. But this should mean that the engine (in a perfect world) would have 8 deg of overlap?
Also, lets say I wanted to adjust the cams to eliminate any overlap, and have installed adj cam gears, I would need to adjust a total of 4 cam degrees on the gears?(Because every degree of cam rotation is equal to 2 degrees of crank rotation?)

Let me know if I'm way off here. thanks everyone.

 

[supramn21]

Dude tell me about it. That cam timing tag is whack. I called BC several times over the past few weeks becuase those cams (according to BC) are supposed to run in OEM cam position, timing, etc. I had to adjust the throttle body idle air screw out to let more air into the mixture cuz I was running insane rich. Fidanza adj cam gears set -2 intake and +2 exhaust, timing with diagnostics jumped set at factory 10 BTDC, and got the car to actually idle at 650-700 ish. Actually used a degree wheel and dial indicator and degreed these cams in and got some whack numbers. BC tried telling me my professionally rebuilt cylinder head (built by a company that does nothing but Toyota and Nissan primarily) had incorrect bucket lash; this is only because I measured 232 duration (from 0.050" lift opening to 0.050" closing) on the intake side and 218.5 duration on the exhaust. BC said my dial indicator wasn't positioned right. I actually had to attach a needle ball end fitting to my indicator because the original head was to fat and got pushed off the bucket by the cam lobe. You can only stick a dial indicator on the bucket maybe two different ways, both of which being from the front side of the lobe on the inner side of the camshaft. The way I figured, the exhaust is supposed to close according to BC @ 8 BTDC, mine closed at 3.5 BTDC and my intake opened correctly at TDC. I actually found true TDC of #1 and somehow the factory mark on the crank actually was really close. The problem was the intake cam, it didn't close at 40 ABDC, it closed at 52 ABDC. I talked to a guy named Dustin @ BC, extension 101 if your having problems with 7mgte side of these cams (since they are made for both NA 7m and Turbo), and Dustin pretty much told me that he could never ever mess a cam grind that far off, and I said the guy that rebuilt my ENTIRE cyl head and lashed these cams SPECIFICALLY into my head, with BC springs and retainers! didn't screw my lash up. He advised me to try -3 int and +3 exh. because my car is still having problems @ 3,500 rpm the whole motor just kinda stalls out and wont clear past 3,700 rpm (almost like fuel cut..or an unmeasured air leak..) need a smoke machine or some carb cleaner to see..but all gaskets are brand new with high-temp RTV everywhere just to be certain, I've done just about everything and still having problems. But not condemning cams yet, still trying to decide what to do with them...let me know your symptoms-issues-problems, if any, with these stage 2's. My intake, as I calculated(and I checked and checked and rechecked a couple dozen times to just to be certain because I knew 12 more duration than advertised is whack) had
.490" of lift! Advertised is .336", my exhaust measured .388" (this is all relative to the timing tag, from .050 opening to .050 closing)...cams on a 7mgte = giant pain in the ass! Once solved I know I'll love em, just fighting them incessantly is getting old..

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Paragraphs are awesome.

 

[whitemike]

Lol

 

[gennro]

Dude tell me about it. That cam timing tag is whack. I called BC several times over the past few weeks becuase those cams (according to BC) are supposed to run in OEM cam position, timing, etc. I had to adjust the throttle body idle air screw out to let more air into the mixture cuz I was running insane rich. Fidanza adj cam gears set -2 intake and +2 exhaust, timing with diagnostics jumped set at factory 10 BTDC, and got the car to actually idle at 650-700 ish. Actually used a degree wheel and dial indicator and degreed these cams in and got some whack numbers. BC tried telling me my professionally rebuilt cylinder head (built by a company that does nothing but Toyota and Nissan primarily) had incorrect bucket lash; this is only because I measured 232 duration (from 0.050" lift opening to 0.050" closing) on the intake side and 218.5 duration on the exhaust. BC said my dial indicator wasn't positioned right. I actually had to attach a needle ball end fitting to my indicator because the original head was to fat and got pushed off the bucket by the cam lobe. You can only stick a dial indicator on the bucket maybe two different ways, both of which being from the front side of the lobe on the inner side of the camshaft. The way I figured, the exhaust is supposed to close according to BC @ 8 BTDC, mine closed at 3.5 BTDC and my intake opened correctly at TDC. I actually found true TDC of #1 and somehow the factory mark on the crank actually was really close. The problem was the intake cam, it didn't close at 40 ABDC, it closed at 52 ABDC. I talked to a guy named Dustin @ BC, extension 101 if your having problems with 7mgte side of these cams (since they are made for both NA 7m and Turbo), and Dustin pretty much told me that he could never ever mess a cam grind that far off, and I said the guy that rebuilt my ENTIRE cyl head and lashed these cams SPECIFICALLY into my head, with BC springs and retainers! didn't screw my lash up. He advised me to try -3 int and +3 exh. because my car is still having problems @ 3,500 rpm the whole motor just kinda stalls out and wont clear past 3,700 rpm (almost like fuel cut..or an unmeasured air leak..) need a smoke machine or some carb cleaner to see..but all gaskets are brand new with high-temp RTV everywhere just to be certain, I've done just about everything and still having problems. But not condemning cams yet, still trying to decide what to do with them...let me know your symptoms-issues-problems, if any, with these stage 2's. My intake, as I calculated(and I checked and checked and rechecked a couple dozen times to just to be certain because I knew 12 more duration than advertised is whack) had
.490" of lift! Advertised is .336", my exhaust measured .388" (this is all relative to the timing tag, from .050 opening to .050 closing)...cams on a 7mgte = giant pain in the ass! Once solved I know I'll love em, just fighting them incessantly is getting old..

Holy crap dude learn how to use these....

 

[supramn21]

Does it really matter, really? whats the difference if i paragraph it. is what i said gonna mean anthing different if i hit enter? the context is still the same. Who in here has degreed cams into one of these? its not exactly easy. and what can i say, my brain obviously works faster than the rest of yous, because when i read, i go left to right top to bottom, and i type the same way and enter doens't even factor in. is this an english tutorial lesson or 7MGTE TECHNICAL DISCUSSION? seriously. just read it and reply something useful.

 

[mkiiichip]

Read the rules, if you cant follow them, GTFO.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...hool-quot-guys-(or-How-to-ask-smart-questions..)

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Does it really matter, really? whats the difference if i paragraph it. is what i said gonna mean anthing different if i hit enter? the context is still the same. Who in here has degreed cams into one of these? its not exactly easy. and what can i say, my brain obviously works faster than the rest of yous, because when i read, i go left to right top to bottom, and i type the same way and enter doens't even factor in. is this an english tutorial lesson or 7MGTE TECHNICAL DISCUSSION? seriously. just read it and reply something useful.

Whenyouputtextintoparagraphsitmakesiteasiertoread. Whenyoutypeoutpropersentencesitmoreclearlygetsthepointacross.

^Thats a smaller version of your post. Not easy to read is it?

I dont understand how your brain works faster because you can type a thought into a hard to read, flagrant disregard of basic grammar, because it follows the top to bottom, left to right general rule of the English language. You bring up speed and all i think is how primitive your brain functions to just simply type endlessly with no thought of grammar.

I really couldn't give less of a shit how you type, Though if your going to type something you expect people to read, (im guessing it is because you posted it) then we would appreciate it if you would type in a manner that can be easily read and understood.

If your wondering why no one has any input other then this (above) on your post, its because most people see it and dont bother reading it. I checked this thread 3 times before i read it.

Were not asking for alot here.

 

[jdub]

WIf your wondering why no one has any input other then this (above) on your post, its because most people see it and dont bother reading it. I checked this thread 3 times before i read it.

Were not asking for alot here.

That's exactly what I did

 

[Moy]

Yeah... Grammar > OP

:biglaugh:

 

[whitemike]

Guys i think we should get back on topic. It's not like it was a huge run-on sentence, at least he uses punctuation. I think he gets the point by now.

 

[CT26smoker]

Guys i think we should get back on topic.

What was the topic again ?
How bad are BC cams ?
I thought that was well known.........

 

[supramn21]

For all the skirts on here :
DO NOT BUY brian crower CAMSHAFTS. Just leave the stock 256 duration cams alone, 7mgte's will push 700hp on stock cams.
Unless you wanna pay dyno time unlimited to figure these out, its not economical. If you wanna push more than 600hp on a 7m, I think you need to order up a JDM 1J and do it right. You can make 700+ on 7m, but your pushing the limits of its capability. The problem lies in your dumping 25 years advanced technology into antiquated 7m, its just not gonna work right.
Power sacrifice along your RPM bandwidth is inevitable with cams. To truly pull that kind of power, you need AT LEAST a MAFT pro; ideally AEM standalone or equivalent.

 

[IJ.]

Did you study to become such a knob or does it come naturally?

Cams make a HUGE difference in a 7M and it's not rocket science dialling them in.

Like the others I got about 4 words into your first post in this thread and just moved on it's impossible to read as typed.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

For all the skirts on here :
DO NOT BUY brian crower CAMSHAFTS. Just leave the stock 256 duration cams alone, 7mgte's will push 700hp on stock cams.
Unless you wanna pay dyno time unlimited to figure these out, its not economical. If you wanna push more than 600hp on a 7m, I think you need to order up a JDM 1J and do it right. You can make 700+ on 7m, but your pushing the limits of its capability. The problem lies in your dumping 25 years advanced technology into antiquated 7m, its just not gonna work right.
Power sacrifice along your RPM bandwidth is inevitable with cams. To truly pull that kind of power, you need AT LEAST a MAFT pro; ideally AEM standalone or equivalent.

There's the problem.

I think you lack the necessary knowledge about this topic in general to give advice.

 

[NashMan]

Did you study to become such a knob or does it come naturally?

Cams make a HUGE difference in a 7M and it's not recket science dialling them in.

Like the others I got about 4 words into your first post in this thread and just moved on it's impossible to read as typed.

i think my shit is easier to read

 

[IJ.]

i think my shit is easier to read

 

[BLACKCAT]

I am running these cams at +3 cam degrees (exhaust) & 0 on the intake.
Perform well in the 3.5-6.5k range.

 

[supramn21]

Knob? lol. lookout for this comedy sesh. you dont like my opinion, word up. doesn't make a difference what i said is true.

 

[IJ.]

Knob? lol. lookout for this comedy sesh. you dont like my opinion, word up. doesn't make a difference what i said is true.

There are some of us that have actually built 7M's and used aftermarket cams with success and didn't spend $1000's on dyno time to dial them in, a mag base a piece of steel a dial indicator and a degree wheel will get you in the ball park, you aren't "right".....

Why is a 1J a better option for 600+ when in the very next line you say some sort of standalone is needed... I'm confused does the 1J come with some advanced technology engine management that's superior to what the 7M runs stock?

Opinions are like arseholes....